(2 forks)
2234 W. North Ave.
773-395-1111
Hours: 7:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 9:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: M, V
Noise factor: Conversation-friendly
First impressions
You could easily cruise by this yellow-and-green painted eatery, dismissing it as just another hot dog and burger joint. You would be making a mistake. True, NorthPoint’s first incarnation was as a fast-food eatery–and there still are hot dogs, burgers, pizza, gyros, etc. on its menu. But today the neat, tiny restaurant salutes the once-Polish stronghold to its east and the expanding Hispanic neighborhood to the west with a much more varied menu. The interior, transformed by the current owners, has walls painted terra cotta, upscale lighting fixtures and a fireplace.
On the plate
Let’s see, there is a cook who once worked at that late, great Polish eatery, the Busy Bee. And, we’re told there are a couple cooks from Mexico and one from Pakistan. That explains the menu that is a global grab-and-go feast, with dishes ranging from bigos, cabbage rolls and tripe soup to tacos, burritos, quesadillas and eggs with chorizo. You’ll also find Caesar salad, a grilled portobello burger, omelets, Philly cheese steak and a BLT. Though fast-food fare dominates the menu (and soft drinks arrive in paper cups), the ambience and cooked-to-order foods (plus hefty, old-fashioned java mugs) give NorthPoint more of a coffee shop feel.
At your service
The wait staff is attentive and happy to explain any dishes that may puzzle.
Second helpings
The pierogi boast a good tender dough, yummy interiors (mushroom and potato were our favorites) plus a topping of lightly grilled onions. A similar mushroom filling shows up in the four tiny dumplings floating in the rich, ruby red broth of the beet borscht. A hearty, tasty goulash is served over a thin potato pancake, while two beef rolls–with carrots and onions tucked inside–arrive with a scoop of mashed potatoes, a mild beef gravy and a side of shredded beets. The huevos rancheros had three nicely cooked eggs set on a crisp tortilla, a hefty spoonful of fresh tomato sauce plus a side of refried beans, seasoned rice and a few hot flour tortillas.
Take a pass
We love those Mexican sandwiches called tortas and would have loved the NorthPoint version–we had steak; there’s also chicken–if the classic torta roll had a bit more crustiness and heft.
Thirst quenchers
Everything from milkshakes to beer, wine, mixed drinks and energy drinks.
Price range
Appetizers, $2.25-$4.50; salad and sandwiches, $1.75-$5.75; main courses, $4.50-$8.95; side dishes, $1.25-$2.25; desserts, $1-$5.25; drinks, $1.35-$4.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
