(3 forks)
110 N. 3rd St., St. Charles
630-587-9595
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; noon-9 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Delivery: Yes
Noise factor: Hushed
First impressions
Harmony is a byword in this elegant restaurant. The dining room exudes a restful, Asian-inspired beauty, with high ceilings, dramatic artwork, subtle colors, soft lighting and comfortable seating at tables and banquettes with tablecloths and pristine dishware. The surroundings belie the menu prices, however; nothing exceeds the Cheap Eats limit. And, in fact, the lovely setting is what nudged our rating to 3 forks from 21/2.
On the plate
The lineup will be familiar to Thai fans: noodle dishes such as pad Thai and khee mao, curries, stir-fries. The food is prepared with care and fresh ingredients, with considerable attention given to presentation.
At your service
The soft-spoken waitstaff aim to please, though on one visit our sole waitperson became overwhelmed by a growing Sunday afternoon crowd; entrees were not delivered in a timely manner and arrived lukewarm. On another visit, though, a full staff delivered prompt, attentive service. Everybody is very friendly.
Second helpings
The Bistro Thai sampler launched our meal with an exquisite platter of six appetizers, all expertly cooked: shrimp in a blanket, a delicate eggroll, golden crab (a.k.a. crab rangoon), pot stickers, shu mai (crab and shrimp dumplings) and chicken satay. A major bonus is the house-made soy-vinegar sauce that came with the platter: sweeter, sharper, thicker and less salty than the renditions typically served. We enjoyed the noodle dishes, from the thin glass noodles of pad woodsen prepared with a colorful assortment of vegetables, to the wider rice noodles in khee mao, with jalapenos, tomatoes and basil. Most entrees are offered with generous additions of beef, chicken or fried tofu; shrimp or seafood is $3 extra. Keep in mind, heat lovers, that “spicy” is a relative term here; even the hot dishes (listed with that familiar chili icon) were tame.
Take a pass
The ginger chicken, though well cooked, suffered from coarsely chopped ginger root that made it difficult to eat. The soups, though inviting and fresh tasting, lacked that extra spark of flavor that elevates a bowl from good to great. The bland, noodle-dense chicken soup was especially disappointing; tom yum, that bracing blend of lemon grass, lime leaves and juice, went too far in the other direction, with an offputting astringency.
Thirst quenchers
An ample wine list and beer are offered in addition to soft drinks, tea and coffee.
Extras
When downtown St. Charles is busy with shoppers and diners jockeying for street parking, Bistro Thai’s large parking lot is a major plus.
Prices
Appetizers, $3.95-$11.95 (for the sampler); soups and salads, $2.95-$6.95; noodles dishes and curries, $7.95-$11.95; entrees, $7.95-$11.95; desserts, $4-$5; beer and wine, $3-$7.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
