(3 forks)
2724 S. Lowe St.
312-225-6368
Hours: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
Credit cards: D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: Yes
First impressions
In this Bridgeport neighborhood, with its hodgepodge of houses, you wouldn’t necessarily expect to stumble upon Gio’s, a small Italian grocery and deli. Once inside, you wouldn’t necessarily expect to find a full-fledged restaurant. But tables topped with checked plastic cloths run down the middle of the room, sandwiched between refrigerator and freezer cases filled with soft drinks and Italian specialties on one side and shelves brimming with packaged pastas, sauces, oils, panettones and cookies on the other.
On the plate
This little cafe has a big menu, with about half a dozen offerings in each category: appetizers (from fried mozzarella to roasted red peppers); salads (Caprese, broccoli); pastas (some with homemade noodles); hot (pepper and egg, meatball) and cold (prosciutto, turkey, capicolla) panini; and specials (shrimp Sicilian style and country chicken when we visited). Gio’s could do a little more with presentation, though–even a sprig of parsley or basil would pretty things up a bit.
At your service
When our group of seven showed up at the same time a party of 20 or so was celebrating a birthday (and passing around babies and food simultaneously), it looked hopeless. But after a mad scramble to bring out a few more tables and chairs, we were seated within minutes. Despite the crowd, our waitress was cheerful and helpful (suggesting a half-portion of pasta for one child and answering menu queries from the rest of us) though harried (it took several requests to get water, and a salad arrived after the main dishes).
Second helpings
An appetizer of arancini, a baked rice ball stuffed with beef, cheese and peas, would make a great main course too. Fried calamari were light and perfectly cooked. A special of grilled whitefish, though slightly overcooked, was saved by its light balsamic vinegar sauce, pleasantly crunchy bottom and garlicky escarole that surrounded it. The homemade pastas–a hearty meat ravioli and even heartier baked cavatelli, thanks to the ample mozzarella and ricotta–were the best of the noodle dishes. Chicken marsala had a nice, sweet marsala wine flavor. We also loved a couple of desserts, which came right out of the freezer case. The lemon sorbet packed into a real lemon was nicely tart (other ripieni di frutta include peach, pineapple and coconut, all in their original fruit’s shell), and the ice cream cup with swirls of coffee sauce and a few chocolate-covered beans was delicious.
Take a pass
The bruschetta was cold and lacking that essential garlic-basil bite. The pasta fagioli, too, needed a flavor boost.
Thirst quenchers
An array of soft drinks, some imported, are offered. Otherwise it’s BYOB.
Price range
Appetizers, $3.95-$6.95; salads, $2.95-$6.95; sandwiches, $3.95-$6.95; pastas, $5.95-$8.95; entrees, $6.95-$12.95; desserts, $1.75-$3.95; soft drinks, $1-$2.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
