A hot-air balloon floats high above the snowy ground. From a pickup truck at the launch site, a crewman talks to the pilot by radio, then turns to those of us awaiting the next flight.
“He’s about to go. Grab your binoculars.”
Through six-power optics, I watch a black-clad figure lift one leg over the balloon’s basket. The other follows, and the man suddenly drops downward. Moments later, a chute opens and the formerly falling flier glides safely earthward, his body hanging from a canopy sliding through the sky.
“He must not have paid for a round-trip flight,” one wag speculates.
Skydiving is one of the more unusual off-slope activities available in the winter resort of Steamboat Springs. For non-skiers and those wanting a respite from the runs, this Rocky Mountain community offers an array of diversions to round out a winter’s getaway. For those of us content to stay onboard, a half-hour balloon flight provides a lofty look at this famous home of “champagne powder.”
We board, the burner roars and the craft lifts skyward. Reaching cruising altitude, the pilot kills the flame, and the warm-air envelope floats silently through the cold stillness. Mt. Werner rises to the east, its conifer-clad slopes sliced with ski trails. Below I see rooftops and tree-lined streets. To the northwest sprawl the open valleys that have served as cattle country for over a century. Steamboat’s roots are ranching, and out there, one can still hop on a horse and plod through the powder.
Ray Heid, owner of Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch, offers two-hour winter rides across his thousand-acre spread. Clad in worn boots, yellow duster and a timeworn gray hat, this rancher displays the weathered look of a genuine, fourth-generation Steamboat cowboy.
“My great-grandfather came to the valley sometime in the 1890s,” he says. “To this day, we don’t know what his real name was. Back on his tombstone it just says Grouse Creek Jones.”
The horses bray, their breaths condensing in the crisp air. Saddles squeak as we city slickers mount our steeds, and soon hooves clop the packed surface with reassuring thuds. A family member rides in the lead with a ranch dog bounding ahead. Watching the dog dart through the fluff, I know he will sprint many times the distance covered by his equine companions.
The trail wends its way into the white landscape. Frost clads the bushes, and willow twigs poke from snow sparkling in the morning sun. When the group pauses in a drift-muffled meadow, I feel the aura of unruffled solitude. The only way to achieve more serenity would be to leave the animals behind and use my own muscles to probe the Steamboat countryside.
Cross-country skiing is a way to do that. While there are many nearby venues available, one of the most peaceful is Vista Verde Guest Ranch located near the Mt. Zirkel Wilderness Area. It offers more than 18 miles of groomed trails. Here, I can kick and glide through a land so quiet that the only sounds I hear are zinging skis and panting breath.
“It’s an escape from the real world,” says ski manager Steph-anie Wilson.
Routes cross rolling meadows and penetrate glades of naked aspen whose long shadows look like zebra stripes on the white snow. Animal tracks ranging from mice to elk tell of their owners’ passing. With mountains shimmering in the distance, it feels almost as if I have slipped into a winter photo.
“Of course, not everyone skis,” says Steamboat guide Vicki Little. “For us, snowshoes provide a way to mash the champagne powder.”
Vicki and her fellow guides lead gourmet snowshoe hikes in the Steamboat Ski Area. This is a walker’s chance to experience the mountain and perhaps link up with downhilling family members at lunch.
The groups meet at 10 a.m. to ascend on the gondola. An hour’s hike up a summer nature trail leads to Ragnar’s, the deluxe, sit-down restaurant located atop Rendezvous Saddle. After feasting on fine fare, it’s time for the downhill tromp back to the gondola. Vicki assures us we should reach the base by 3, leaving time for some afternoon shopping.
A good place to break out the MasterCard is at the Steamboat Art Company where astute shoppers find cowboy Santas, wine bottle holders made from horseshoes and hand-carved tables that make me think I’m gazing into a trout stream.
Down the street stands Off the Beaten Path, a bookstore where volumes are bought by the title, not by the pound. They feature about 15,000 selections as well as a cafe that serves drinks, soups and bakery items straight from the kitchen.
Between the two lies F.M. Light & Sons, a store that for nearly a century has clothed Steamboat ranchers and visitors. Over 100 of their historic, hand-painted signs grace highways leading to town, and just as these mini-billboards advertise, one can still buy a cowboy hat here for $4.98. In addition to the cheap chapeaus, the store carries a full line of western wear including genuine Stetsons, windproof and rainproof oilskins and cowboy boots bearing decorative inlays. Wandering the historic aisles, I feel I’m traipsing through history.
“Some of the fixtures were brought in by stagecoach,” says co-owner Del Lockhart, whose great-grandfather started the family-run business. “We’re certainly not your cookie-cutter, franchise type of store.”
When hunger hits, it’s fun to take a sleigh ride to supper. For a set price, my wife and I are treated to a forest dinner at the Elk River Guest Ranch. After appetizers and warm-up beverages, we take seats in an open sleigh pulled by a pair of draft horses. Woolen blankets and a little snuggling provide warmth during the meandering journey through meadows and woods.
A 20-minute ride leads to a set of outlying tepees. Unlike those Native Americans used, these are carpeted and packed with couches, chairs, overstuffed pillows and wood-burning stoves.
“We heat each structure with its own blazing fire,” says ranch owner Bill Hinder. “They’re surprisingly cozy.”
The smell of burning pine gives way to the aroma of steak, chicken, salmon, bass or duck, which is served with a mound of trimmings. Dessert and coffee follow back at the ranch house.
No matter what the day’s other activities, few things feel better than a dunk in Steamboat’s famous mineral water. I prefer Strawberry Park Hot Springs, located in the hills just north of town. In winter, four-wheel-drive or chains may be required for the access road, but for those of us with lesser traction, outfitters provide transport.
The springs feed into a creek that flows through a mountain canyon. Following the trail down from the entrance station, one passes a massage room built into the hillside. At the bottom, a tepee provides changing facilities, and three stone-lined pools offer places to slosh and simmer.
“Mornings are my favorite time here,” says owner Don Johnson. “It’s beautiful when the sun first hits the water. That’s when I see those little white ermines popping their heads up.”
Families often prefer afternoons when offspring can splash in the sun. Others choose night when kids are banned and suits are optional. Regardless of when one comes, most bathers agree on one thing: Soaking in a thermal pool sure sounds like a better off-slope activity than springing from a balloon.
IF YOU GO
WHEN TO GO
The winter season runs from late November through mid-April. Hotels normally offer low-season rates through mid-December and again in early April. Most non-skiing activities are available all winter long.
GETTING THERE
United and United Express (800-241-6522; www.ual.com) fly daily from Denver to the Yampa Valley Regional Airport in Hayden, 22 miles away. During ski season, other airlines offer direct service from major cities. For the latest, check with a travel agent or the Chamber of Commerce (970-879-0880; www.steamboat-chamber.com).
Motorists can reach Steamboat Springs by following U. S. Highway 40, 42 miles east from Craig, 52 miles northwest from Kremmling, and 172 miles west and north from Denver.
SKIING
The Steamboat Ski Area is open through April 11. High-season, single-day, adult lift tickets run $64-$69, but most people opt for multiday passes or packages to reduce the per diem cost.
ACCOMMODATIONS
A downtown favorite is the Rabbit Ears Motel (800-828-7702; www.rabbitearsmotel.com), which is situated on the ski area side of downtown.
Near the slopes, the Sheraton Steamboat Resort Hotel (800-848-8878; www.steamboat-sheraton.com) provides ski-in/ski-out convenience. The Steamboat Grand Resort Hotel (877-269-2628; www.steamboatgrand.com) offers upscale luxury.
For other lodging possibilities, check with Steamboat Central Reservations (800-922-2722; www.steamboat.com/lodging).
THINGS TO DO
Wild West Balloon Adventures (970-879-7219; www.wildwestballooning.com) flies daily, weather permitting. Cost is $110 for a 30-minute ride.
Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch (970-879-3495; www.steamboathorses.com) offers two-hour winter rides across the ranch located near Clark, 18 miles north of Steamboat Springs. Cost is $65, and rides go daily except Sunday.
Vista Verde Ranch (800-526-7433; www.vistaverde.com) features a $30 package that includes a ranch-house lunch and an all-day pass to their more than 18 miles of groomed tracks near Clark north of Steamboat.
Snowshoeing at the Steamboat Ski Resort (970-879-6111; www.steamboat.com) costs $35 and includes the gondola ride, a guide, equipment and a gourmet lunch.
Steamboat Art Company (800-553-7853; www.cpostores.com/steamboatart) is located downtown at 903 Lincoln Ave.
Off the Beaten Path (800-898-6830; www.offthebeatenpath.booksense.com) can be found downtown at 56 7th St., just off Lincoln Avenue.
F.M. Light & Sons (800-530-8908; www.soda-creek.com) lies at 830 Lincoln Ave. downtown.
Elk River Guest Ranch (800-750-6220; www.elkriverguestranch.com) has sleigh rides starting around dusk with transportation provided from town. Cost is $75 for adults.
Strawberry Park Hot Springs (970-879-0342; www.strawberryhotsprings.com) is located on Routt County Road 35 north of town. Admission runs $10 per adult, and after dark, the area becomes clothing optional. Sweet Pea Tours (970-879-5820) and others offer shuttle service.
INFORMATION
Contact the Steamboat Springs Chamber Resort Association, 970-879-0880; www.steamboat-chamber.com.
— Dan Leeth
