(2 forks)
1820 W. Montrose Ave.
773-334-6900
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily
Credit cards: V, M
Noise factor: Conversation challenged
Delivery: No
First impressions
The interior of this cheery storefront tapas restaurant is painted the same vibrant shade of yellow as the Spanish flag and decorated with travel posters. Butcher-paper-covered tables are pushed together into long rows, forcing strangers to dine elbow to elbow. Diners seem to take the close quarters in stride; on one visit, what we thought was a chatty, jovial party of eight turned out to be four couples. On a weekend night, a crowd piled up inside the door waiting to be seated. Owner Mario Oziel, dashing in a dark suit with tie and pocket square, worked the crowd.
On the plate
Tapas typical of southern Spain dominate the menu with 24 familiar hot and cold options, including gambas al ajillo (grilled shrimp with garlic, olive oil and white wine), pincho de pollo (chicken skewers with caramelized onions) and queso de cabra (baked goat cheese with tomato sauce). Also featured are sandwiches (lunch only); salads; and four varieties of paella (a la Valenciana, with shrimp, red snapper, clams and mussels; Andaluza, with mussels, chicken, red snapper and pork sausage; de verduras (veggies); and de seta (assorted mushrooms). A small selection of entrees includes roasted half-chicken, grilled beef tenderloin, pork tenderloin and grilled salmon with leek sauce and mushrooms. Desserts include a Spanish take on tiramisu, rice pudding and a fried banana with ice cream. Only two dishes exceeded our Cheap Eats limit: the mushroom paella ($13.95) and the grilled salmon ($13.95).
At your service
Waiters showed patience (and dexterity) dodging expectant diners. When we were seated, a server plopped a pitcher of water and two glasses on our neighbors’ table (apparently he couldn’t reach ours). They gamely did the honors. Despite the crowds, dishes emerged from the kitchen quickly.
Second helpings
The jamon serrano (cured ham) was a simple pleasure, alternated on the plate with triangles of manchego cheese and croutons spread with fresh garlicky tomato paste. The vieiras a la plancha (grilled sea scallops with a tasty (aioli) were perfectly cooked. The beef tenderloin entree featured two medallions of beef that could be cut with a fork. We also loved the chorizo y morcilla, a “combo platter” of sliced sausages.
Take a pass
The paella Andaluza (we ordered the one-person portion) was generous, but its cubes of chicken and mussels were dry, as if the whole dish did too much time under a heat lamp. Also, many of the hot tapas we tried came plated with a heap of tasteless Spanish rice. In this case, less would have been more.
Thirst quenchers
Oziel is waiting for a liquor license, but he says sangria and Spanish wines will be a specialty. In the meantime BYOB or opt for fountain drinks. A coffee bar turns out espresso-powered drinks.
Price range
Tapas, $2.95-$5.95; salads, $3.25-$4.95; paellas, $11.95-$14.95; entrees, $8.95-$13.95; desserts, $2.50-$3.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
