(three forks)
3755 Grand Blvd.
Brookfield, 708-485-0091
Hours: Lunch, 11:30-2:30 Tues.-Sat.; dinner, 4:30-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs. and 4:30-10 Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: M, V
Delivery: No
Noise rating: Hushed
First impressions
This snug and spiffy triangular-shaped cafe in west suburban Brookfield serves a creative menu in a decor that deftly blends kitschy retro (’50s-era paintings and pastel bar stools), elegant trattoria (exposed brick, upscale lighting) and–well, we’re not sure what to call a design motif that puts a plastic squirrel in the corner of the ladies room. But we like it.
On the menu
Chef-owner Chris Schullo’s Mediterranean-inspired menu offers plenty to satisfy the Italophile, vegetarian and/or thrift-nik. Pasta entrees, flatbread pizzas, and steak and pork entrees are here, along with a good range of supporting dishes. Meals are made to order in the open kitchen.
Second helpings
The hummus starter is a show-stopper. A bowl of creamy, not-too-garlicky dip arrives with cucumber and carrot wedges circling the bowl’s rim, along with triangles of garlic crostini. The house salad, a lovely assortment of mixed greens dressed with a peppery vinaigrette and balsamic-drenched diced tomatoes, makes a welcome beginning too. Luna’s sensational 11-inch flatbread pizzas take off in lots of fun directions. We loved the spinach with fresh mushrooms, Roma tomatoes and dollops of goat cheese basking on the pristine, crispy-soft crust (made in-house), with mozzarella and Parmesan added for good measure. Portions are large enough to guarantee a next-day lunch. The garlic chicken is no exception, with chunks of chicken breast (marinated in lemon and rosemary) tossed with kalamata olives, artichoke hearts and penne. Like many of the dishes, there’s a lot going on, but the results are well-balanced.
Take a pass
The turkey focaccia’s respectable fillings of shaved meat, sauteed bell peppers and garlic aioli fell victim to the squishy bread, which couldn’t stand up to the heat of this griddled sandwich.
At your service
Because dishes are made-to-order, the e.t.a. of meals can vary. One night, though we were the first diners in the place, everyone who arrived after us had gotten their entrees while we sat there, supper-less. The pleasant waitstaff is cognizant of these issues (we were given a free dessert). Of course, there’s always takeout: Our carryout order another visit was fresh out of the oven just as we arrived.
Thirst quenchers
Ten to 12 wines are offered by the bottle or glass. Eighteen microbrews (imported and domestic), as well as house-made sangria, also are here.
Extras
Superb focaccia, made fresh daily, is offered gratis with dine-in and carryout orders. And free parking is everywhere. (Plus, don’t forget there’s a world-class zoo a few minutes away.)
Prices
Appetizers and salads, $3.50-$8; panini and flatbread pizzas, $6.50-$8.50; entrees, $10-$15 (three exceed the $13 limit); desserts, $4; beverages, $1-$5.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
