(one fork)
5353 W. Irving Park Rd.
773-545-3761
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Mon.-Fri.; 11:30 a.m.-3 a.m. Sat.
Credit cards: D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly–unless the TV is blasting away
Delivery: No
First impressions
Think Chicago corner bar: Red Frog may actually be several doors east of the corner–in this case, Irving Park Road and Long Street–but it has all the trappings of a classic neighborhood spot. There’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it exterior. Inside: a burnished wood bar, a range of beer signs, a pool table, a jukebox. A handful of tiny round tables plus a couple booths nestled near the front windows. It’s a neat and simple place, with some bright paintings on the walls ratcheting up the ambience.
On the plate
“You get value for your money,” noted one of our dining companions. Which sums up the appeal. Hearty portions of appetizers, salads and sandwiches are designed with the primary business in mind: Food to pair with beer (they offer a wide variety as well as featured beers on special) or wine or whatever else you may be sipping. Don’t look for desserts. They don’t have any. What they do have are a few appetizers (chips and salsa, fries, etc.) and a handful of salads (Caesar, cobb, house). The long suit is sandwiches and quesadillas, done up with so many snazzy mayos, cheeses and fixings it can be too much. There’s a ham, bacon and havarti cheese creation on a baguette with dill mayo. There are hot, breaded steak or breaded chicken sandwiches, a grilled three-cheese sandwich (that can be had plain, with tomatoes, or with ham), burgers (with an assortment of toppings) and several quesadillas.
At your service
The bartender may double as a server, which was no problem when we visited. Things were relatively quiet and we didn’t feel ignored. In fact, servers were as helpful as could be, whether it was discussing the array of beers available or apologizing for items the kitchen didn’t have.
Second helpings
The hands-down favorite was the cheese quesadilla, a huge serving of delicious, gooey cheese between two tortillas. The chimichurri chicken showed up on a crunchy toasted chunk of baguette with muenster cheese, avocado and a spicy sauce that still packed a punch even after we asked the kitchen to go easy. Chimichurri, that herb-rich salsa, shows up alongside a basket of warm tortilla chips as well as with taquitos (tasty, crisp rolls of tortillas filled with potatoes and a bit of chorizo). The Red Frog burger, with havarti, avocado, bacon and tomato, also won praise.
Take a pass
Red Frog appears to have missed the Atkins-mania that has made so many carb-conscious. The Caesar salad was heavy on the dressing and suffered from an abundance of croutons. In the tasty steak sandwich, a wonderful crusty baguette overwhelmed the filling of thin, marinated steak, cheese and grilled onions.
Thirst quenchers
There is a full bar and range of soft drinks.
Extras
Daily specials (including $1 burgers on Tuesdays; $4.95 fish fry on Friday).
Price range
Appetizers, $1.75-$6.95; salad and sandwiches, $3.50-$6.95; drinks, 60 cents-$5.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
