Forget the green beer. If you’re going to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day next week at one of Chicago’s countless Irish pubs, do it right. Order a Guinness.
The dark Irish brew with the creamy top is drinkers’ beer of choice 10 million times a day worldwide, in more than 140 countries. And in Chicago, with its increasing number of great Irish bars, a satisfying pint is always close at hand.
“You’re going into a bar for an enjoyable experience,” says Guinness brewmaster Fergal Murray, who was in Chicago last month. “One of the first things, the bar should have ambience, which adds to the sensation of an enjoyable experience. You have to have a pleasant atmosphere.”
And in Chicago–“a great city to drink in,” Murray proclaims–you can find the atmosphere that best suits you. There are dark and quiet pubs, large and bustling restaurants/bars and small neighborhood joints full of regulars.
Once you’ve found the right setting, there are things to do to enhance your enjoyment, Murray says.
Start by giving the Guinness the once-over. Look for a full head, and the traditional black, thick liquid.
“You drink the pint with your eyes first,” Murray explains. “If it looks perfect in the glass, you’ll enjoy it.”
The physical part of presenting a good pint–clean hoses, the right mix of gases that make for the foamy head, the right temperature–usually isn’t a factor in Chicago, where kegs of Guinness have been drained for 40 years.
“This is one of the best cities in the world for getting a pint of Guinness,” Murray says. “Better than Dublin sometimes.”
We visited a handful of Irish pubs around Chicago–more like three handfuls, in truth–and didn’t find one truly bad pull in the bunch. All the bartenders knew what they were doing and the product was consistently excellent. Not that a Guinness can’t be messed up. We recently attended a concert–it had nothing to do with this story, but Guinness was available from the bar–and watched in horror as the bartender pulled Guinness after Guinness with four or more inches of foam on top. (There should be no more than an inch.) To their credit, several customers sent the too-frothy drinks back.
For novices, Murray offers some advice.
“You drink through the head,” Murray explains. “No pussy-footing. No sipping. This isn’t cappuccino. Get right into the product.”
Inspired by his words, we embarked on a tour of some of Chicago’s Irish drinking establishments, observing how they pull a pint but also what kind of atmosphere they provide. There are dozens of Irish pubs; we were able to hit just a percentage–for publication, at least. Here’s how it went (many places have special events for St. Patrick’s Day):
BALLYDOYLE, 5157 Main St., Downers Grove; 630-969-0600: This lively, new establishment has an older feel; maybe it’s all the old wood. Beams, doors, tables and chairs were collected with an eye for character. There’s a great bar, a stage and dance area–Irish dancers perform during the week–and a full menu that includes classic Irish fare. The well-presented Guinness ($5)–rich color, proper temperature, right amount of foam–went nicely with the boxty (potato pancake), even though the lager was served in a Newcastle Brown Ale glass. According to Murray, Guinness tastes better in a glass with a Guinness logo on it. But he may be a bit partial.
BREHON PUB, 731 N. Wells St.; 312-642-1071: Remember the advice about the right atmosphere? This is the place. Neon shamrocks in the window, framed Irish sayings on the walls, along with Chicago memorabilia. Add a tin ceiling, lots of tables and a long wooden bar, and you’ve got the perfect setting for a Guinness ($4.25) that was everything it should be, with perfect color and temperature and a nice head of foam that lasted till the end. If you’re hungry, go for the buffalo chicken sandwich (and have it fried).
CLADDAGH IRISH PUB, 1702 Commons Drive, Geneva; 630-208-0337: Hitting this eatery on a Saturday night seemed to be a mistake. Finding a parking spot was a challenge, the place was packed with people waiting for tables, and the bartenders were overmatched by the crowd blitzing the bar. There was plenty to look at–signs on the walls, showcases of Irish-related items–if you could duck the hustling wait staff. And then came the Guinness ($5)–complete with a foamy shamrock on top, proving there’s always time for a little showmanship.
CORK & KERRY, 10614 S. Western Ave.; 773-445-2675: On a busy Friday night, it took a while to get served. But that was a minor disappointment. The Guinness ($4.50) was perfect, the bar was welcoming–filled with a happy, 30-ish crowd–and the surroundings charming.
CULLEN’S BAR AND GRILL, 3741 N. Southport Ave.; 773-975-0600: The atmosphere is excellent (tin ceiling, lots of pictures), but the beautiful wood back bar makes this place worth a visit. The first pull of Guinness ($5) had a little too much foam, which the barkeep spooned off. The second pull had a head a little smaller than we’d seen elsewhere. Like it mattered.
EMERALD ISLE, 2535 W. Peterson Ave.; 773-561-6674: Guinness signs on the walls and behind the bar decorate this friendly neighborhood joint, which features standard bar fare (try the homemade salsa and chips) and, of course, Guinness (a bargain at $3.75). Another good pour, to no one’s surprise.
IRISH OAK, 3511 N. Clark St.; 773-935-6669: More dark wood and Irish memorabilia in this Wrigleyville establishment. And a few Irish dishes on the menu (try the bangers and mash). The Guinness ($5) appeared to have a “G” in the foam–very cool–but the waitress was as surprised as we were and said it wasn’t intentional.
JEREMY LANIGAN’S IRISH PUB, 3119 W. 111th St.; 773-233-4004: A real neighborhood place, thick with smoke and regulars, a pool table in the back and walls covered in beer signs. “Very `The Color of Money’-esque,” was how one member of our party described it. A giant Guinness mirror hangs behind the bar, where the busy bartender pulled a perfect pint ($3.25).
JOHN BARLEYCORN, 658 W. Belden Ave.; 773-348-8899: Spacious and decorated with a nautical theme (and a giant moose head), this De Paul-area spot has more than enough eye candy to keep a drinker occupied. On a late-afternoon stop, it was quiet and a great place to relax and enjoy a Guinness ($5).
KERRY PIPER, 7900 Joliet Rd., Willowbrook; 630-325-3732: Another perfect pull–from the 45-degree angle of the glass to the tap to the wait for the formation of the head–although this pint ($4) seemed a little colder than most. (The ideal temperature is between 38 and 42 degrees.) A suggestion: If you’re going, check the map on the Kerry Piper’s Web site (www.kerrypiper.com) for directions. It can be difficult to find.
McNALLY’S IRISH PUB, 201 E. Main St., St. Charles; 630-513-6300: The Guinness ($4.50) arrived quickly in this charming pub–busy but not loud, very woody, with several nooks where a person can stand and drink–causing our companion to question whether the foam was allowed to settle properly. It looked right; more important, it tasted right.
McNALLY’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB, 122 S. York St., Elmhurst; 630-941-7100: Lots of Irish paraphernalia on the walls and rafters and music (traditional Irish to Van Morrison) make for a nice atmosphere. Guinness is by far the drink of choice here (they usually have three taps of it). On the night we visited, all five customers at the bar were drinking Guinness ($4.75), which came with a shamrock in the foam. How long it stayed foamy, we can’t say. We were thirsty.
O’DONOVAN’S, 2100 W. Irving Park Rd.; 773-478-2100: The Guinness ($4.75) was excellent–a little cold, perhaps, but still satisfying–and the surroundings were inviting. But maybe the biggest selling point is the women’s restroom. “That was the coolest public bathroom I’ve ever seen in my life,” our drinking companion said. Something about comfortable chairs, interesting–and strategically placed–artwork and lights with red shades and feathers.
PEPPER CANISTER, 509 N. Wells St.; 312-467-3300: Walk through the bright red door and grab a really nicely pulled Guinness. The menu has an Irish flavor–mini corned beef sandwiches!–and the Guinness ($5.50) was as good as it gets. The setting was decidedly comfy–wood floors, an exposed brick wall, a nice bar, tables, booths and a long table seating a dozen.
SIX PENNY BIT, 5800 W. Montrose Ave.; 773-545-2033: You want Irish? This is Irish. Regulars with brogues, mementos from the worlds of Irish sports and politics on the walls, and the perfect pull of Guinness ($3.75). The kind of place you can spend an entire day in. Or a week. Or a lifetime.
Six steps to draft heaven
What’s so special about Guinness?
A big draw is the foam. It’s thick and creamy, the result of just the right combination of nitrogen and carbon dioxide gases. That produces smaller bubbles than other drafts, and the tiny bubbles make it taste thicker, a Guinness spokeswoman explained.
There are six steps to perfection, according to Fergal Murray, Guinness’ brewmaster:
1. Start with a dry, clean glass.
2. Tilt the glass at a 45-degree angle to the tap.
3. Bring the tap handle back and allow the pour to start, stopping when the glass is three-quarters full.
4. Allow the Guinness to settle as the head is forming. “If the bartender has done it right,” Murray says, “by now you’re really looking forward to your pint.”
5. Top it off, building a crown just over the top of the glass (but not overflowing). A talented bartender can top you off with a little flair and form a shape atop your foam. “Normally it’s a heart or a shamrock,” he says. “It’s the skill of the bartender.”
6. The bartender presents the pint.
— William Hageman
