First impressions
This bright, tidy though sparely decorated storefront restaurant boasts an “Old World in the Suburbs” appeal. Seating for about 32 is cramped when the place is full–which it was on each of our visits. (This 4-month-old spot is no secret to locals.) Owners Ignazio and Luciano Libreri are the former owners of La Gondola in Lincoln Park.
On the menu
The hearty Italian dishes are not for anyone wary of carbohydrates, fat or calories. In other words: abbondanza! Pasta is drenched in sauce; pizza is smothered in cheese; meats are cooked in a flurry of rich ingredients. If you want to behave, eat half and take the rest home–which is probably what you’ll have to do anyhow. Vegetarians will find plenty of meatless fare. (Some seafood dishes exceeded our price limit.)
At your service
Experienced, cheerful waitresses have everything under control, though one night we had a substantial wait for our entrees. Our takeout experience proved terrific: The food we had ordered ahead was ready and it was hot.
Second helpings
Rigatoni vodka stars a dense, cream-heavy sauce nicely balanced with a sharp tang from the alcohol; a smattering of peas on top adds charm and color. The chicken cacciatore’s gargantuan portion includes one super-tender half-chicken buried in a thick, slightly sweet tomato sauce with mushrooms, olives and herbs. The marinara sauce on the penne brims over with robust seasonings and enough finely minced vegetables to create a “meaty” texture. The in-house tiramisu boasts a creamy, fresh personality (although we wished it had contained more amaretto).
Take a pass
We didn’t have any bad dishes, but the entrees we tried were superior to the generously topped but lackluster pizza. The minestrone’s decent homemade flavor suffered from overcooked vegetables.
Thirst quenchers
Soda and coffee (in all its Italian incarnations), of course, plus four house wines by the glass, bottles of wine and domestic and Italian beer.
Extras
Diners get a basket of fresh, warm Italian bread with a very crispy crust. Entrees come with choice of soup or salad. Takeout/delivery specials are offered daily.
Prices
Appetizers and sides: $1.75-$7; sandwiches, $4-$6; pasta, $7-$9; pizza, $7.50-$16; entrees, $9.95-$16.95; desserts, $2-$3; beverages, $1-$4.
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune. Renee Enna is a Tribune staff writer.
