A chef is supposed to be decisive. I have no trouble with that, usually. But when spring vegetables start to appear in produce shops and farmers markets, I can’t seem to make up my mind.
Do I want sweet, tender-crisp young carrots? Slender stalks of asparagus barely thicker than a soda straw? Whole edible pods of spring peas or sugar snap peas that snap and crunch like a piece of candy when you eat them? Sweet bell peppers? Crunchy little radishes? Crisp, mild young spring onions?
In the end, there is only one smart decision: Buy them all!
That’s the idea behind so many classic springtime vegetable dishes, and French crudites may be its perfect expression. Meaning “raw things,” crudites present an array of seasonal vegetables in their simplest form, left whole or cut up into bite-sized pieces depending on size, and beautifully arranged on a platter with one or more dips.
The dip I love most for spring vegetables is the Provencal anchoiade, a rustic puree of anchovies, garlic and olive oil. Virtually every home cook and restaurant chef in the south of France knows how to make it and gives it his or her own personal interpretation. Some versions, like mine, also include black olives, almonds, tomatoes, bell peppers, fresh herbs and a splash of red wine vinegar. Others might use pine nuts, or thicken the mixture with fresh breadcrumbs. I’ve even tasted anchoiades that include some Italian-style canned tuna, the kind packed in olive oil, which gives the dip an extra-rich texture and a somewhat milder flavor. Any way I’ve tasted it, it has been delicious.
Traditionally, anchoiade is made by pounding the ingredients together in a stone mortar with a pestle. Modern cooks, even in Provence, take advantage of food processors to make the pureeing quicker and easier. When you use your processor for the following recipe, however, take care not to overprocess the mixture; it should still have a somewhat coarse texture.
Serve the dip with the best variety of fresh spring vegetables you can assemble, including celery sticks, carrots, radishes, green onions and asparagus spears. I like to place a bowl of the anchoiade in the center of a large platter and spread a bed of crushed ice around it. Then, I arrange the vegetables sticking out of the ice. I’ll also pass slices of French bread for guests to spread with the anchoiade. Any leftover dip is delicious warmed in a skillet with a little olive oil, then tossed with pasta.
Please try this easy dish. With every bite, you’ll savor the first warm-yet-still-crisp days of springtime.
Anchovy-garlic dip (Anchoiade)
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Cooling time: 10 minutes
Yield: 3 cups
Serve with vegetable dippers or spread on toast rounds.
1 package (2 ounces) slivered almonds
2 cans (2 ounces each) anchovy fillets, drained
3 cloves garlic
1 shallot, peeled, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh basil
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, finely chopped
1 firm, tomato, cored, halved, seeded, finely chopped
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon small capers, coarsely chopped
12 Nicoise or other small black olives, pitted, finely chopped
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1. Place almonds in a small, heavy skillet; heat over medium-low heat, stirring often, until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer immediately to a small bowl; set aside to cool to room temperature, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, place anchovies in a small sieve, rinsing briefly under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels.
3. Process almonds, anchovies and garlic in a food processor until coarse and crumbly, about 20 seconds. Drop the shallot and basil through the feed tube with the motor still running. Pour in olive oil and vinegar. Process just until blended.
4. Add the bell pepper, tomato, parsley, capers, olives and lemon juice to the processor bowl; pulse until ingredients have blended into a coarse puree. (Do not overprocess.)
5. If not serving right away, transfer dip to a nonreactive bowl. Cover; refrigerate. Return to room temperature before serving.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
59 calories, 73% of calories from fat, 5 g fat, 0.6 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 1.7 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 242 mg sodium, 0.5 g fiber
