As summer approaches, zucchini are starting to show up everywhere. You’ll see these slender, cylindrical green squashes piled high in supermarkets and on farmers market stalls. In so many restaurants, when a summer menu says “served with fresh vegetables,” what it means is “served with zucchini,” much to diners’ disappointment.
With so many zucchini around, it always surprises me how few people experience it at its best. There are two reasons why.
First, so many of us buy zucchini that are either too big or that have been sitting around too long after picking. As a result, the vegetable will have a cottony texture and bland flavor that are so different from the firm consistency and bright, clean taste of a really fresh young specimen. A couple years ago when I visited the Italian island of Pantelleria, I enjoyed a dish called zucchini carpaccio, made with vegetables that were so fresh that they were served raw, cut into slices almost paper-thin and garnished with extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice, black pepper and freshly cut shavings of Parmesan cheese. Incredible!
Your best way to get zucchini that fresh is to grow the vegetable yourself, something gardeners find very easy to do, and then to pick them just before cooking. The next best choice is to buy zucchini from the farmers market or from a food store that has a good turnover in its produce inventory. Look for zucchini that are firm, have a bright green color, and are medium-sized, no more than 8 inches long. One indication of freshness is the cut end of its stem, which should look clean and smooth, with no sign of withering or oxidation.
The second mistake most people make when they cook zucchini is to use water. The vegetable soaks up liquids like a sponge, winding up unappealingly watery in both its flavor and texture.
And for all those home cooks who routinely use their microwave ovens to steam vegetables at the last minute before serving dinner, I have one word of advice when it comes to using this method for zucchini: Don’t.
Instead, try sauteing zucchini quickly in a little oil over high heat, which keeps the vegetable crisp and fresh-tasting. Add aromatics such as garlic and fresh basil leaves for a Mediterranean touch, as in the accompanying recipe, a perfect side dish for grilled or roasted meats, seafood or poultry. Or try a little fresh ginger to give the zucchini an Asian personality.
Zucchini will never disappoint you again.
Zucchini with tomatoes and fresh basil
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
3 medium, ripe tomatoes, cored, bottom end scored with an “x”
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
5 medium zucchini, trimmed, diagonally cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup finely shredded fresh basil leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1. Heat water to boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Fill a large bowl with ice cubes and water; set aside. Place the tomatoes one at a time into the boiling water; heat just until their skin begins to wrinkle, about 30-45 seconds. Transfer to the bowl of ice water to cool.
2. Peel tomatoes. Halve each tomato crosswise. Scoop out seeds with a finger; discard seeds. Cut the tomatoes into 1/4-inch dice; let drain in a strainer.
3. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over high heat; add the zucchini and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, 2 minutes. Add the diced tomatoes and basil. Cook, stirring, over high heat until the zucchini is tender-crisp, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Nutrition information per serving:
83 calories, 50% of calories from fat, 5 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 7 g carbohydrates, 5 g protein, 201 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
