Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.
* = Good
** = Very Good
*** = Excellent
**** = Outstanding
Fork reviews are based on at least one visit by a Tribune staffer.
(1 fork) = Good
(2 forks) = Very Good
(3 forks) = One of the best
(4 forks) = Don’t miss it
Credit card key
A American Express
DC Diners’ Club
DS Discover
M MasterCard
V Visa
NEW = A review added since the last Dining Guide
UPDATE = A restaurant revisited since the last Dining Guide
CLASSIC = A true Chicago institution
African
CITY
Ethiopian Diamond Restaurant and Lounge (3 forks)
6120 N. Broadway
773-338-6100
If you’re in the mood for the tangy, spicy cuisine of Ethiopia, served on a round platter the size of a pizza pan, this is a great place to have around.
Recommended: Zilzil, veggie combo.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $8-$12
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Ras Dashen Ethiopian Restaurant (3 forks)
5846 N. Broadway
773-506-9601
Communal Ethiopian dishes are served on a beach ball-size pancake called injera at this large, friendly Edgewater restaurant.
Recommended: Yellow split pea paste, spicy stewed lentils, beef stew, spinach.
Open: Dinner and lunch Wed.-Mon.
Entree prices: $8.95-$16
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; coffee-roasting ceremony most evenings.
American classic
CITY
NEW
Biggs ** (This restaurant closed after the preprinted Dining Guide went to press.)
1150 N. Dearborn St.
312-787-0900
The dining room in this historic mansion oozes Victorian charm; there’s hardly a prettier venue in the city, and new ownership has added polish to the service as well as the abundant wood trim. What is essentially a steak-and-seafood menu is augmented by twists from veteran chef Frederic Boyer. The lower-level wine cellar cannot match the charm of upstairs, but it’s a handy place for a quick lunch.
Recommended: Steak or tuna tartare, venison tournedos, sachertorte.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $24-$45
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Butterfield 8 *
713 N. Wells St.
312-327-0940
The indefatigable Demetri Alexander has partnered with Jack Binyon and others to create this property, where ultra-slick nightclub decor meets 1940s-style supper-club dining. The result is more harmonious than one might expect, despite some uneven moments.
Recommended: Steamed mussels, beef Wellington, halibut Mansour, triple-chocolate cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $13.95-$29.95
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
437 Rush **
437 N. Rush St.
312-222-0101
The old Riccardo’s, a celeb and media hangout in its day, has been transformed by Phil Stefani into a well-managed steak and seafood restaurant. The handsome,
Art Deco-accented decor is augmented with pictures of media celebrities and journalists past and present.
Recommended: Homemade pasta specialties, prime rib.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $13.95-$39.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Keefer’s ***
20 W. Kinzie St.
312-467-9525
What differentiates this River North spot from the city’s rank-and-file steak-and-seafood restaurants is the cooking of chef John Hogan, who works a few French touches into the menu mix.
Recommended: Mussels mariniere, tomato bisque, N.Y. strip steak, pork chop, seafood pot pie, tarte tatin.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $16.95-$44.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
CLASSIC
Lawry’s the Prime Rib
100 E. Ontario St.
312-787-5000
A haven for the indecisive, Lawry’s offers a simple menu focused firmly on prime rib, offered in various cuts and sizes and carved tableside from huge rolling carts. The room is sprawling and old-fashioned, as are the upstairs-maid uniforms the waitresses wear, but that’s all part of the show.
Recommended: Prime rib, chocolate bag.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $23-$38
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking
One North Kitchen & Bar **
1 N. Wacker Drive
312-750-9700
Directly across the street from the Civic Opera House, this American brasserie offers a mostly conservative menu for pre-performance diners and Loop lunchers. But Todd Davies throws in just enough offbeat touches to satisfy more adventurous palates (even more would be better). Servers have mastered the art of handling time-constrained customers.
Recommended: East-West tartare duo, smoked duck, pecan-coated pork chop, molten chocolate cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices:: $10-$25 Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking (opera nights only).
Petterino’s **
150 N. Dearborn St.
312-422-0150
In look and feel a throwback to dining in the ’40s and ’50s, Petterino’s is done in dark wood and red leather, its walls covered with caricatures of celebrities past and present. The menu is heavy with steaks and chops, but includes some old-fashioned dishes, including excellent potato pancakes. Petterino’s location inside the Goodman Theatre building in the Loop makes it a handy lunch and pre- and post-theater dining destination.
Recommended: Steak Diane, shrimp de jonghe, red snapper soup, tomato bisque, chocolate pudding, cheesecake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $12.95-$35.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking at dinner.
RL ***
115 E. Chicago Ave.
312-475-1100
American and continental cuisine meet at this clubby restaurant, named for American designer Ralph Lauren. Amid butter-soft leather banquettes, mahogany wainscoting and a gallery’s worth of framed prints and photographs, customers tuck into massive steaks and chops, impressive seafood and throwback dishes such as steak Diane, flamed-tableside.
Recommended: Oysters, goat cheese tart, filet Rossini, RL burger, Key lime pie.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$31
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.
West Town Tavern **
1329 W. Chicago Ave.
312-666-6175
Susan and Drew Goss, creators of now-shuttered Zinfandel, opened this chummy American bistro, where the food is straightforward and modestly priced, the wines are global and intriguing and service is attentively professional.
Recommended: Mussels, antipasto plate, pepper-crusted steak, lemon chess pie.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $14.75-$18.25
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
NORTH
Masck ***
730 Waukegan Rd. Deerfield, 847-236-1400
Considering it’s possible to begin a meal with a heeseburger and end it with doughnuts, this is one sophisticated restaurant. Beyond the signature Floppy Cheeseburger (quartered for a shared appetizer) and the Cafe du Monde-inspired mini-doughnuts with powdered sugar and hot fudge sauce, there are excellent dishes throughout the menu. Recommended: Fire and Ice shrimp, ahi tuna on flatbread, roasted halibut, chile-citrus-glazed snapper.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $12-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking; smoking in bar only.
WEST
NEW
18 North *
18 N. 4th St.
St. Charles, 630-443-8400
Heavenly steaks and chops at this beautifully restored, converted limestone church are some compensation for the host of venial sins that plague the kitchen and the front-room staff.
Recommended: Vertical Caesar salad, black-tie scallops, lamb chops, venison chops.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $26-$80
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet; smoking in bar only.
American contemporary
CITY
Allen’s ***
217 W. Huron St.
312-587-9600
Very little about the old Harvest on Huron has changed. Founding chef Allen Sternweiler is still running a first-rate kitchen–he just has added his name over the door. The decor has been softened a bit; it’s a less-stuffy dining room now, though still fairly noisy. And prices have dipped slightly, though it’s still an upscale evening out.
Recommended: Foie gras with sauternes reduction, sauteed sweetbreads, roast pheasant breast.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $21-$35
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
NEW
Avec **
615 W. Randolph St.
312-377-2002
The casual offspring of next-door Blackbird shares its parent’s formula of excellent food and less-than-ideal creature comforts. Avec’s dining room is virtually an elongated cedar closet; seating is on backless stools pulled up to communal eight-seat tables or the long zinc-look bar. And yet the food at this drop-in-anytime wine bar is worth some inconvenience. Koren Grieveson cranks out delicious, Mediterranean-inspired plates meant for sharing; of particular interest are her handmade salami and sausages.
Recommended: Pissaladiere, grilled sardines, bourride, bucatini with guanciale.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $13-$20
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Valet parking; no smoking.
Bin 36 ***
339 N. Dearborn St.
312-755-9463
– – –
275 Parkway Dr.
Lincolnshire, 847-808-9463
– – –
Inventive food and wine choices blend perfectly at these city and suburban restaurants. A wine-lover’s paradise, Bin 36 offers an ever-changing assortment of small-producer wines, available by the bottle, glass or taste–there’s even a retail store attached. Executive chef John Caputo oversees both locations; all his a la carte and tasting options are accompanied by pairing suggestions by wine director Brian Duncan. Note: The Lincolnshire location does not offer breakfast or weekend lunch.
Recommended: Surf and turf tartare, wild-mushroom risotto, soy-braised black cod, roasted rabbit, banana-hazelnut financier, poached pear.
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$24.50
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Blackbird ***
619 W. Randolph St.
312-715-0708
Beyond the minimalist dining room and the see-and-be-seen crowd, there is serious food at Blackbird, thanks to chef Paul Kahan. Kahan redoes his menu every two weeks, so there’s always something new and interesting here, such as the ever-changing cheese selection, which nicely augments (or replaces) the luscious desserts.
Recommended: West Coast mussels soup, veal sweetbreads with figs, brandade-stuffed squid, lamb steak, white-chocolate mint ice cream sandwich.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $16-$29
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar area only.
Charlie Trotter’s ****
816 W. Armitage Ave.
773-248-6228
A fine-dining masterpiece that enjoys a national reputation, Charlie Trotter’s is one of the city’s treasures. Trotter is as experimental as they come, creating extraordinarily complex dishes whose range of tastes and textures can be mind-boggling even to sophisticated palates. The printed menu lists only degustation dinners, consisting of seven to 12 courses in petit portions, designed to expose patrons to the widest range of tastes. The wine list, though pricey, offers excellent values.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Dinner prices: Vegetable menu, $110; grand menu, $130
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Required
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible; jacket required; no smoking; valet parking.
d.kelly ** (This restaurant closed after the preprinted Dining Guide went to press.)
623 W. Randolph St.
312-628-0755
Chef/owner Daniel Kelly is as low key as they come, but his cooking speaks volumes. Meals start with an impressive amuse, such as avocado mousse with seaweed and foamed cream, and his modestly described menu offers one surprise after another. This in a well-appointed but down-to-earth dining room with attentive service and a budget-friendly wine list.
Recommended: Cozy shrimp, tomato bisque, grilled pork chop, chocolate-marshmallow cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices $19-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
The Green Room ***
130 S. Green St.
312-666-9813
This chic restaurant/nightclub, a block west of the Greektown restaurant row, mixes celadon-hued walls with industrial materials (in particular the concrete-and-steel bar) to create a hip, urban look. Larry Pierce’s menu features slightly gussied-up treatments of recognizable contemporary and traditional American dishes. The restaurant switches into full nightclub mode around 11 p.m., but there’s a limited menu available until 2 a.m. or so.
Recommended: Sashimi tuna, chicken pot pie, “Brady Bunch” pork chop.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $8.95-$26.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NEW
Green Zebra
Review pending
1460 W. Chicago Ave.
312-243-7100
This long-anticipated, mostly vegetarian cafe from Spring chef Shawn McClain finally opened in April, and already herbivores are flocking there to dine on the avocado panna cotta, fennel-risotto cake, curry-and-buttermilk crepe and other innovative dishes from the small-plates menu.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Small-plates prices: $8.95-$26.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
UPDATE
Kevin ***
9 W. Hubbard St.
312-595-0055
There is no shortage of chefs augmenting French cooking with Asian accents, but Kevin Shikami has been doing it longer, and better, than just about anybody else. Everything about this restaurant dazzles, including Shikami’s precise cooking, Cindy Schuman’s marvelous desserts, attentive service and the woody and warm interior.
Recommended: Tuna tartare, sauteed foie gras, duck composition, strawberry parfait.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $23-$36
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.
Magnolia Cafe **
1224 W. Wilson Ave.
773-728-8785
An upscale jewel in a gentrifying section of Uptown, Magnolia Cafe is a modestly priced, unpretentious haven for straightforward but delicately nuanced food by chef/owner Kasra Medhat. The 50-seat dining room is compact and efficient, and frequently jammed on weekends.
Recommended: Pesto-marinated calamari, scallops with lentils, pork tenderloin, creme brulee.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $17-$24
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: No smoking; wheelchair accessible.
mk ***
868 N. Franklin St.
312-482-9179
Chef Michael Kornick’s seasonal food is as clean and modern as his restaurant’s industrial-chic design, but both are embellished with the kind of sumptuous, elegant details that make the mk experience linger in your memory like a very pleasant dream. And on top of it all, his staff is smart and enthusiastic (but not too enthusiastic) about his food and the wines, and will make spot-on matches upon request.
Recommended: Roasted rack of lamb, roasted venison loin, pomme frites.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $23-$34
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NEW
Moto ***
945 W. Fulton Market
312-491-0058
For those looking for the Next Big Thing in dining, this cutting-edge restaurant stands ready to deliver an experience that is equal parts cuisine, design and technology. Chef Homaro Cantu applies raw-food and sous vide (under vacuum) techniques to all manner of exotic and painstakingly sourced ingredients, often with breathtaking results. The all-degustation format (consisting of four, seven, 10 or 18 courses) ensures a steady parade of eye-popping dishes, from a relatively familiar sea bass to a head-scratching smoked-watermelon soup with mango emulsion — many of them presented on serving dishes of Cantu’s design.
Recommended: 112-degree scallop, veal breast with beans and rice, quail with liquid salad.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Prices: Prix-fixe menus, $50-$160
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking; no smoking.
Naha ***
500 N. Clark St.
312-321-6242
Carrie Nahabedian’s stunning regional cooking makes her restaurant an excellent option for sophisticated lunch and dinner dining. The stylish, contemporary dining room can be rather noisy when the place is full.
Recommended: Foie gras with poached cranberries, mustard-glazed salmon, risotto with braised quail, financier cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $19-$44
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
one sixtyblue ***
160 N. Loomis St.
312-850-0303
A spectacular restaurant, from the Adam Tihany decor to the work of chef Martial Noguier, who incorporates global ingredients into his French-trained cooking with skill and imagination. Service is particularly impressive.
Recommended: Lobster soup with mussels, delmonico steak, shrimp and asparagus gnocchi, rack of venison, baba cake, hot chocolate cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $19-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Rushmore **
1023 W. Lake St.
312-421-8845
Just slightly off the beaten path along the Lake Street L, Rushmore excites with playful yet classically grounded food by chef Gil Langlois, who manages head-turning interpretations of fish-and-chips, soup-and-sandwich, and other standbys.
Recommended: Trout fish and chips, pan-roasted sturgeon, chocolate cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $16-$27
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking on weekends; smoking in bar only.
Seasons ***
Four Seasons Hotel Chicago
120 E. Delaware Pl.
312-649-2349
One of the most opulent restaurants in the city coddles patrons from the moment they enter the richly appointed dining room. Chef Robert Sulatycky’s French-informed cuisine focuses on pure ingredients and unfussy preparations, but there’s nothing simplistic about the way he layers flavors.
Recommended: Halibut cheek in crawfish bisque, duet of veal, rabbit saddle, chocolate pyramid.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: : $28-$36
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet and self-parking available; no smoking.
Spring ***
2039 W. North Ave.
773-395-7100
Chef/owner Shawn McClain has turned this former bat **ouse into a temple for serious foodies, particularly those enamored of McClain’s Asian-influenced seafood dishes. A carefully chosen wine list and exemplary service complete one of the city’s finest dining experiences.
Recommended: Tuna nicoise salad, scallops and oxtail, halibut with lobster potatoes, coconut-mochi brulee, panna cotta.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $19-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
Tru ****
676 N. St. Clair St.
312-202-0001
Here, the culinary talents of chefs Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand have the forum of their dreams — a beautifully realized space with the stunning good looks of a contemporary art gallery and a smoothly professional staff that makes the dining experience an unintimidating delight. Choose from a three-course prix-fixe menu, or sample one of four degustation dinners, called “collections”; either way, prepare for an onslaught of flavors, textures, aromas and visuals that will approach sensory overload.
Recommended: Caviar staircase, black truffle risotto, mosaic of seafood, dessert collection.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Dinner prices: Prix-fixe menus, $80-$135
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Required
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jacket required; no smoking.
NEW
Tweet ***
5020 N. Sheridan Rd.
773-728-5576
It’s not often you find a cash-only BYOB whose chefs have logged serious time at Charlie Trotter’s and similar-caliber restaurants. OK, it never happens, except at this adorable Edgewater hangout adjacent to Big Chicks bar (both owned by Michelle Fire). Chef Janice Martin whips out clever dishes such as a Lyonnaise-style salad whose centerpiece is a scotch-laced flan; sous chef Kimberly Stewart oversees the luscious desserts, which are never quite what one might expect. All for a price that seems like a pittance for the skill being demonstrated.
Recommended: Lyonnaise salad, goat-cheese tart, porchetta, chicken au vinaigre, chocolate-caramel mousse crepes, cheese platter.
Open: Dinner Wed.-Sat., breakfast Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$20
Credit cards: Not accepted
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: No smoking; parking lot; BYOB.
Zealous *** 1/2
419 W. Superior St.
312-475-9112
No longer the jackets-required atmosphere of old (though waiters still are clad in designer suits), Zealous nevertheless maintains lofty culinary standards, even while holding prices to surprisingly low levels. There’s plenty here to indulge the deep-pocketed, particularly chef/owner Michael Taus’ extraordinary tasting menus, but the budget-minded will be pleased by their options as well.
Recommended: Sweetbread club sandwich, peach-stuffed rack of pork, grilled tandoori beef, Deconstructed Black Forest cake.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $15-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.
NORTH
NEW
Chef’s Station **
915 Davis St.
Evanston, 847-570-9821
An adorable niche carved into the Davis Street Metra depot, Chef’s Station offers dishes as whimsical as foie gras with guava creme brulee and as traditional as meatloaf, in a charming, warm room with white linen, bright-colored napkins and clever hand-made light fixtures.
Recommended: Roasted mussels with frites, Barcelona seafood stew, leg of lamb, Key lime pie.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$26
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
mk North ***
305 S. Happ Rd.
Northfield, 847-716-6500
The suburban sibling to the original mk is a comfortable, if noisy, space; the menu is very similar to the parent operation, though chef Jon Novak manages some signatures of his own.
Recommended: Crab cake with Tabasco aioli, roasted quail, rotisserie chicken, apple crostata.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14-$31
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
Trio ****
1625 Hinman Ave.
Evanston, 847-733-8746
Fasten your seatbelts when you dine here; the cooking of chef Grant Achatz is practically an assault on the senses. He might start your meal with a complimentary flask of spiced water topped with hazelnut foam, then pair foie gras with bananas, followed by prime sirloin bathed in “root beer” flavors.
Recommended: Black-truffle ravioli, “root beer” sirloin, wild striped bass with chocolate and coffee sauces, Japanese tea cake.
Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun., lunch Fri.
Dinner prices: Small tasting menu, $85; grand menu, $120; tour de force, $175.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible (assisted access to restrooms); valet parking; jacket preferred; no smoking.
WEST
NEW
Dixons **
1600 W. 16th St.
Oak Brook, 630-684-0477
It’s hard to think of this retail-choked corner of Oak Brook as a neighborhood, but in Dixons it has a very good neighborhood restaurant, although one jazzed up with contemporary decor. The short and sweet menu has plenty of familiar-sounding choices, though presentation shows a creative spark or two.
Recommended: Lemongrass mussels, roast duck, rainbow trout, chocolate-almond torte.
Open: Dinner Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $14.95-$21.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.
Montage **
3124 S. Ill. Hwy. 59
Naperville, 630-904-7401
A very upscale sibling to the Pancake Cafe chain, this ambitious restaurant is high on creature comforts, including spacious seating, carpeted dining rooms and a welcoming bar with live jazz on weekends. Sean Roe’s menu includes one or two dishes from his many years working for Emeril Lagasse, but for the most part offers an eclectic mix of seasonal American dishes.
Recommended: Salmon-seaweed parfait, pan-roasted salmon, pecan-crusted pork chop, apple-cinnamon pancake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon,-Fri.
Entree prices: $15-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
NEW
10 West ***
10 W. Jackson Ave.
Naperville, 630-548-3100
Much as he does at his Barrington restaurant, Eclectic, Patrick Cassata invigorates this west-suburban restaurant with his unpredictable, three-countries-on-a-plate fusion fare. But there’s a subtle discipline to Cassata’s work that manages to harmonize even the oddest-sounding combos, and smooth, well-trained servers ensure that the only surprises here are on the plate.
Recommended: Crabcake with kim chee, chipotle-glazed barramundi, venison with blue-crab lasagna, apple-pie burrito.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $18-$28
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking at bar only.
UPDATE
302 West *** 1/2
302 W. State St., Geneva
630-232-9302
Few restaurants are as intelligently conceived or as consistently well run as Joel and Catherine Findlay’s west-suburban jewel. Housed in a former bank, the decor is pretty and subdued in warm, romantic tones. Joel Findlay’s menus are always enticing, and Catherine Findlay’s enormous dessert assortment demands consideration. An all-American wine list, chock-full of lesser-known names, witty observances and good values, is a huge plus.
Recommended: Grilled prawns, ahi spring rolls, roasted seabass, venison chop, Black Forest cherry cake.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $25-$33
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking at bar only.
American regional
CITY
UPDATE
Crofton on Wells ***
535 N. Wells St.
312-755-1790
Trends come and go, but Suzy Crofton’s understated, 64-seat restaurant quietly provides one of the city’s finest dining experiences, year after year. Her seasonally focused cuisine revels in America’s regional bounty, and her flavor pairings are sensational. A knowing wine list and note-perfect service are also strengths.
Recommended: Crabcake with Creole mustard sauce, frisee and chevre salad, grilled salmon with ancho jus.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $17-$36
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: No smoking; valet parking.
erwin ***
2925 N. Halsted St.
773-528-7200
The simple menu descriptions don’t do justice to chef Erwin Drechsler’s self-styled “urban heartland” cooking, which spins Midwest ingredients into dishes that excite the palate and nurture the soul.
Recommended: Smoked trout and cilantro pancake, mussels, Door County whitefish, sauteed calf’s liver with mustard shallot sauce, peanut butter mousse cake.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $12-$22
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Meritage ***
2118 N. Damen Ave.
773-235-6434
Faux-metallic walls and low light make the dining room of this Bucktown restaurant a romantic place to dine, though most people prefer the awning-covered outdoor patio, one of the most pleasant outdoor spaces in town (it’s fully enclosed in poor weather for year-round dining). The French-informed, Asian-accented cuisine of chef Dirk Flanigan is a perfect fit.
Recommended: Seared foie gras with warm pear cornbread pudding, roasted sea bass, grilled elk, roasted duck breast, apple caramel Dutch pancake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $18-$29
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.
North Pond ***
2610 N. Cannon Dr.
773-477-5845
North Pond was always a pretty restaurant, but after an expansion that added a second dining room (with French doors overlooking North Pond) and a small bar — both of which echo the Arts and Crafts design of the original space — it’s absolutely beautiful. Bruce Sherman’s cooking is exceptional, and the addition of a daily tasting menu exposes diners to a variety of seasonal creations.
Recommended: Grilled rouget, quail with corn blinis, roasted snapper.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $26-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking; no smoking.
WEST
NEW
Jason’s at Gray’s Mill **
211 N. River St., Montgomery 630-801-1492
A 150-year-old grist mill on the banks of the Fox River is the unlikely but attractive setting for a contemporary American restaurant. Jason Tsoris, whose resume includes stints at many well-known Chicago restaurants, dots his menu with homages to employers past, from the Gordon-inspired artichoke fritters to the pastas and risotti reminiscent of Harry Caray’s. Steaks and seafood dominate, but Tsoris throws in a few offbeat options.
Recommended: Shrimp deJonghe, Key West shrimp cocktail, osso buco, lemon tart.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $10-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot; smoking in bar only.
Barbecue
CITY
Smoke Daddy (3 forks)
1804 W. Division St.
773-772-6656
At this vintage neighborhood bar-lounge, flavorful barbecued ribs and tender pit-oven smoked pork and beef are on the menu.
Recommended: Pork shoulder, beef brisket, spare ribs, barbecued chicken breasts, skin-on French fries, BBQ beans.
Open: Dinner and lunch
Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5.50-$17.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more
Other: Wheelchair accessible
WEST
Uncle Bub’s Hickory Smoked Barbecue (3 forks)
132 S. Cass Ave.
Westmont, 630-493-9000
This is a “joint” in the best sense of the word, with Western motifs, red-and-white-checked-oilcloth-topped tables and rustic booths. The piped-in music reaches back to the 1960s. The lineup includes ribs, wings, rib tips and sliced beef sandwiches. Folks order at the counter, and the aiming-to-please staff will deliver your meal faster than you can say “Hoss Cartwright.”
Recommended: Baby-back ribs, pulled chicken, mashed potatoes.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $7.95-$17.99
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 8 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; catering available.
SOUTH
Chuck’s Southern Comfort Cafe (3 forks)
5557 W. 79th St.
Burbank , 708-229-8700
At this Southern-style barbecue joint, the sauce–mild or hot–reigns supreme. Barbecue specialties are top-notch, as are the exceptional hand-cut fries.
Recommended: Ribs, beef brisket sandwich, Taylor Street submarine, daily specials.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $4.50 -$14.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Smokey Bones BBQ (3 forks)
9600 S. Ridgeland Ave. Chicago Ridge
708-857-8033
In this creative combination of a rib shack, sports bar and hunting lodge, the large dinning room serves up giant portions of sandwiches and rib platters.
Recommended: Baby back ribs, pulled pork, smoked sausage, coleslaw.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5-$17
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Brazilian
CITY
Fogo de Chao **
661 N. LaSalle St.
312-932-9330
This rodizio-style Brazilian churrascaria features continuous service of up to 15 grilled meats–delivered tableside by costumed gauchos–in a fixed-price, all-you-can-eat format that also includes side dishes and a hefty salad bar. (Desserts and drinks additional.)
Recommended: Picanha (rump steak), pork loin, top sirloin, creme de papaya.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Menu prices: $46.50 dinner, $28.50 lunch.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.
NORTHWEST
Sal & Carvao *
801 E. Algonquin Rd. Schaumburg
847-925-0061
– – –
3008 Finley Rd.
Downers Grove
630-512-0900
– – –
A Brazilian churrascaria featuring an all-you-can eat selection of grilled and roasted meats–about a dozen daily, though the selection changes slightly–delivered and carved tableside by costumed servers. The price also includes side dishes and unlimited trips to the large salad bar. (Desserts and drinks additional.) Despite the all-you-can-eat format, creature comforts are high.
Recommended: Picanha (rump steak), lamb chops, bacon-wrapped sirloin, creme de papaya.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Menu prices:: $39.50 dinner, $24.50 lunch.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Complimentary parking; smoking in bar only.
British/Irish
CITY
Chief O’Neill’s (4 forks)
3471 N. Elston Ave.
773-583-3066
A convivial Irish bar that’s surprisingly serious about its cuisine, Chief O’Neill’s (named for a former Chicago cop, not a Celtic ruler) offers hearty food, fine imported drafts and live music most evenings.
Recommended: Corned beef and cabbage, shepherd’s pie, chicken pie.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $8-$19
Credit cards: DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
WEST
Irish Times Bar and Restaurant (3 forks)
8869 Burlington Ave.
Brookfield, 708-485-8787
Charming Irish bar where you can imagine everybody really would know your name. Fish and chips, shepherd’s pie and Guinness on tap head the pubby menu.
Recommended: Shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, Irish fry.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5.95 -$13.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
NORTHWEST
Peggy Kinane’s (2 forks)
8 N. Vail Ave.
Arlington Heights
847-577-7733
This Irish pub has a reasonably authentic look but is by no means fanatical about it. The menu makes room for Buffalo-style chicken wings (dubbed Killarney wings), and there’s a “Paddy Melt” grilled sandwich. But the main courses include plenty of straightforward American tastes, and there are about a dozen beers on tap and 16 more available bottled.
Recommended: Killarney wings, shepherd’s pie, fish and chips.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun., breakfast Sun.
Entree prices: $8-$20
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; live music most weekends.
Cajun/Creole
CITY
Heaven on Seven on Rush **
600 N. Michigan Ave.
312-280-7774
This Cajun empire also includes locations in Wrigleyville, the Loop (the original, with limited hours) and most recently Naperville, proving that Jimmy Bannos’ lively and modern takes on Cajun/Creole food have a wide and growing audience. Insiders opt for the multi-course “Jimmy Feed Me” dinner; fire-eaters order the “Hot as a Mutha” entree.
Recommended: Gumbo, barbecued shrimp, Mardi Gras etouffee, bread pudding, coconut cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9.95-$18.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Chinese
CITY
NEW
Dragonfly Mandarin *
1206 N. State Pkwy.
312-787-7600
A much-needed facelift has added style to this Gold Coast restaurant-cum-nightclub; gleaming red-lacquer walls and contemporary black-and-red furniture make it an appealing place for a bite or drink. The menu, despite some fanciful nicknames (crab rangoon is “crabby cheese crunch”), is basic neighborhood Chinese, most of it capably executed. At 10 p.m. or so, the space morphs into a nightclub and brings in a younger, hipper crowd–though the kitchen stays open until closing (4 a.m. most nights).
Recommended: Hot and sour soup, Peking duck, seafood platter.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., dim sum brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $12-$30
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Lao Sze Chuan (3 forks)
2172 S. Archer Ave.
312-326-5040
Delightfully restrained Szechwan cooking defines this Chinatown Square Mall storefront, which offers some of the best Chinese cooking around. There are additional locations on Taylor Street and in west-suburban Westmont.
Recommended: Steamed sole, twice-cooked pork, Chinese eggplant.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6.95-$10.95
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
NEW
Spring World **
2109 S. China Pl.
312-326-9966
A tiny BYOB tucked into a corner of the Chinatown Square Mall, Spring World doesn’t merit a second glance based on looks or creature comforts. But the menu offers Yunanese-style and other dishes that aren’t commonly available elsewhere, many of them absolutely delicious and none particularly expensive. And as you’re supplying the beverages, dining out is a bargain.
Recommended: Hong Tashan pig’s feet, Unusual Seasonings chicken, Chef Cheng’s scallops, lamb with cumin, tea-smoked duck.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $8.95-$19.95
Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: No smoking; BYOB.
NEW
Triple Crown (3 forks)
211 W. 22nd Pl.
312-791-0788
Don’t be put off by the dingy entryway that leads up to this Cantonese restaurant. Rewards lie ahead, in the dishes from any of the four menus offered here. The place really livens up after 10 p.m. on weekends, when hip young diners come to enjoy tapas-size entrees.
Recommended: Clams in black bean sauce, hundred-flavor shrimp, Hong Kong-style blue crabs, stir-fried pea pod sprouts.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6.95-$22; late-night menu, $3.95-$8.95.
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: BYOB
NORTH
NEW
Great Beijing (3 forks)
6717 N. Lincoln Ave.
Lincolnwood, 847-673-5588
Friendly, helpful service is one of the hallmarks of this restaurant, which thinks big all around–from its dining rooms to its menu to its servings. Though it focuses on Mandarin favorites, you’ll also find a smattering of Szechuan and Cantonese dishes.
Recommended: Sizzling rice soup, steamed dumplings, sauteed four greens, Mongolian three ingredients.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6.50-$29.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking on weekends.
Czech
WEST
NEW
Bohemian Crystal (3 forks)
639 N. Blackhawk Drive
Westmont, 630-789-1981
Sometimes it seems the lines never let up at this comfy eatery, where efficient waitresses hustle platters through the large dining room. Substantial portions of food, including roast pork and duck, breaded cauliflower and barbecued ribs, are served at affordable prices.
Recommended: Svickova (pickled beef with gravy), koprova (beef with dill gravy) and fruit dumplings.
Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6-$10
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; parking lot.
NEW
Czech Plaza (2 forks)
7016 W. Cermak Rd.
Berwyn, 708-795-6555
Folk art accents decorate the neat-as-a-pin dining rooms here, where diners feast on hearty fare such as crisp roast duck, hickory smoked butt, potato dumplings stuffed with ham, and fruit dumplings.
Recommended: Liver dumpling soup, roast duck, chicken paprika with spaetzle.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5.25-$10.95
Credit cards: M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Eclectic
CITY
The Outpost **
3438 N. Clark St.
773-244-1166
The menu loosely traces a line through the South Pacific, which explains the myriad Asian influences, but there’s always room for game meats, particularly in the cooler months. The award-winning wine list offers plenty of fun, easy-drinking wines.
Recommended: Watermelon-glazed prawns, Thai-style
mussels, five-spice duck breast, kajiki (blue marlin).
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$19
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot; smoking at bar only.
NORTH
Dr. Zushi (3 forks)
300 Skokie Blvd.
Northbrook, 847-564-1861
Just about anything goes at this Japanese-French hybrid, where bowtie pasta and shrimp coexist with duck-confit spring rolls and 20-piece sashimi platters. Inventive two-in-one maki rolls are a lot of fun; the Monet combines a crunchy California roll with a spicy tuna roll. Equally impressive are European entrees such as lamb shank over bleu-cheese mashed potatoes.
Recommended: Piranha roll, seared tuna with curry broth, dessert eggroll.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $10-$25
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking at bar only.
WEST
Kafe Kokopelli *
30 E. 1st St.
Hinsdale, 630-325-1996
A cute, 40-seat cafe attached to an even cuter retail shop, Kokopelli is a good place to know about if you’re shopping in downtown Hinsdale. The name and decor are Southwestern, but chef Robert Kearley’s food includes French and Italian accents as well.
Recommended: Crab cakes, spinach salad, chicken rigatoni, pork chausseur.
Open: Dinner Thu.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $13.95-$31.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
NORTHWEST
Eclectic ***
117 E. North Ave. Barrington, 847-277-7300
Chef Patrick Cassata gives full rein to his culinary whims at this delightful little cafe, gleefully mixing Greek and Thai idioms and giving every dish on his menu a dash of personality–and, often, chile pepper–though even the wildest-sounding dishes demonstrate careful moderation.
Recommended: Tuna and arugula spring roll, stuffed chicken breast, habanero
ravioli, tres leches cake.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $17-$24
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: No smoking
Filipino
WEST
Cebu (4 forks)
7329 Lemont Rd.
Downers Grove
630-663-8803
At the elegantly appointed Cebu, you won’t encounter the heavy food found at some Philippine spots. Instead you’ll be treated to light, complex Asian cuisine with a definite nouvelle touch.
Recommended: Pancit guifado, mini egg rolls, vegetable lumpia, paella, Cebu rice.
Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6.95- $10.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Fondue
CLASSIC
Geja’s Cafe
340 W. Armitage Ave.
773-281-9101
Consistently recognized as the most romantic restaurant in Chicago in reader polls, this wildly popular fondue restaurant is dark and moody and features guitar music nightly. That, and the forced intimacy of shared cooking in hot oil, apparently does the trick. It’s possible to order a la carte entrees, but the premier dinners–which include cheese fondue, salad and chocolate fondue–are the way to go.
Recommended: Beef, scallop and lobster dinners–or combinations.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Dinner prices: $20-$37
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted Sun.-Thu.; accepted only until 6 p.m. Fri. and 5 p.m. Sat.
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking
French
CITY
Ambria ****
2300 N. Lincoln Park West
773-472-5959
From its matter-of-factly efficient staff to its modest-to-a-fault menu, Ambria has established and maintained the definition of fine-dining in Chicago. The five-course petite degustation ($75) is generally a good bet. Matching wines to tasting menus can be daunting, but sommelier Bob Bansberg is a treasure.
Recommended: Medallions of venison with blackberry sauce, lamb loin with rosemary infusion, Chocolate Euphoria.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $32-$36
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jacket required; no denim permitted; no smoking in dining room.
Bistro Campagne **
4518 N. Lincoln Ave.
773-271-6100
– – –
815 Chicago Ave., Evanston
847-475-6100
– – –
With two locations, Michael Altenberg can double the audience for his traditional French cuisine, prepared with a near-fanatical commitment to organic ingredients.
Recommended: Mussels, brandade, roasted pork chop, plank-roasted salmon, creme brulee.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$20
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Bistrot Margot ***
1437 N. Wells St.
312-587-3660
Simply one of the best bistros the city has to offer, Bistrot Margot has handsome Art Nouveau decor, a first-class staff of servers and soul-nurturing, affordably priced French cuisine by chef/owner Joe Doppes. Every time I eat here I wonder why I don’t do so more often.
Recommended: Crabcake a la Jean Banchet, spinach salad, pork tenderloin with toasted pasta, brioche bread pudding.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $12.95-$19.95
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
Brasserie Jo ***
59 W. Hubbard St.
312-595-0800
Big, bright and full of energy, this casual sibling to the acclaimed fine-dining Everest pleases on many levels. The star, of course, is chef Jean Joho’s full-flavored bistro food, but there also are unexpected treats, such as the complimentary tarte flambee samples at the bar during happy hour Tuesdays, and the occasional “chapeau nights” during which patrons wearing hats are treated to a free hat-shaped dessert.
Recommended: Onion tart Uncle Hansi, steak tartare, choucroute Alsacienne, steak frites.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$29
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Cafe des Architectes **
Hotel Sofitel Water Tower
20 E. Chestnut St.
312-324-4000
Someday there will be a formal, high-end dining room in this year-old hotel, but for now this sharply modern cafe will do just fine. Sleek red, black and chrome tones are the background for a French menu that approaches comfort food with dishes such as steamed mussels and roasted chicken (a great buy). The outer wall, an expanse of glass overlooking Chestnut Street, lets in plenty of light, especially at lunchtime, when the restaurant offers a witty selection of adorable bite-sized desserts for $1.
Recommended: Appetizer trio, onion-goat cheese tart, smoked and seared sea bass, chile-marinated pork loin, chocolate-orange cake.
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$30
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Cite *
505 N. Lake Shore Dr.
312-644-4050
You could get high from the altitude at this Streeterville spot (it’s on the 70th floor of Lake Point Tower), but not necessarily from the food. The view is certainly breathtaking, and so are the astronomical prices–an arrangement the crowd seems perfectly happy to abide. It’s a big-night-on-the-town kind of place, for when the limo and the corsage are more important than the dinner itself.
Recommended: Escargots
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $20-$36
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Cyrano’s Bistrot & Wine Bar **
546 N. Wells St.
312-467-0546
The estimable Didier Durand is the chef and owner of this romantic bistro, ably assisted by his wife, Jamie, who runs the front room and manages an off-the-beaten-path wine list that includes, fittingly, wines from Bergerac.
Recommended: Foie gras, lobster bisque, sweetbreads, apple tart.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $12.95-$25.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
The Dining Room ****
Ritz-Carlton Hotel
160 E. Pearson St.
312-266-1000
Everything about this opulent room seems to announce “you expect the best, and we are prepared,” and the restaurant indeed delivers, from Sarah Stegner’s outstanding French and American cooking to exemplary service. No other restaurant in Chicago offers so elaborate a cheese presentation. The wine list is heavy with big names and big vintages, and goes deeper than most budgets dare follow.
Recommended: Foie gras with balsamic syrup, rack of lamb, cheese course, Grand Marnier souffle.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $32-$39
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.
Everest ****
440 S. LaSalle St.
312-663-8920
One of the literal and figurative high points of Chicago dining since 1986, this restaurant consistently delivers a superb dining experience with sumptuous surroundings, supremely attentive service and food that is as awe-inspiring as the spectacular 40th-floor views. Chef/proprietor Jean Joho’s menu balances old and new, offering signatures such as salmon in a cloud-like blanket of salmon mousse, and challenging creations such as Indian-spiced lamb or an all-parsnip dessert presentation. The wine list, headed by young sommelier Alpana Singh, is also world class.
Recommended: Sea scallops with lentils, salmon mousse, herb-crusted lamb, chocolate souffle.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $32-$46; seven-course degustion, $89.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Required
Noise: Hushed
Other: Free valet parking; no smoking.
NEW
KiKi’S Bistro ***
900 N. Franklin St.
312-335-5454
Thirteen years after Georges “KiKi” Cuisance moved from the Loop to the Near North Side, his bistro still ranks among the finest in the area. Chef Javier Guzman, who worked under founding chef John Hogan, manages bistro classics with considerable flair, and his occasional breaks with tradition are just as good. The homey, country-French decor is cute as a postcard.
Recommended: French onion soup, tarte provencale, duck breast, pork medallions, chocolate mousse.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $16.95-$26.75
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking
NEW
La Tache **
1475 W. Balmoral Ave.
773-334-7168
You’d never recognize the old Dellwood Pickle space, which has been gutted to create this cozy, 60-seat dining room with deco-ish lights, a cute zinc bar and fireplace. Dale Levitski takes a few liberties with his French dishes, generally successfully.
Recommended: Grilled scallops, beef bourguignonne, rabbit pot au feu, lemon tart.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$26
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking at bar only.
Les Nomades ****
222 E. Ontario St.
312-649-9010
Roland Liccioni’s kitchen wizardry and Mary Beth Liccioni’s gracious front-room hospitality create one of the most civilized and memorable dining experiences you’ll ever encounter. The dining room conveys a sense of refinement and civility befitting its early days as a private dining club, without the stuffiness one might fear. The menu is formatted as a four- or five-course prix-fixe, but choices abound in all categories.
Recommended: Artichoke terrine, duck consomme, grilled sea bass, duo of lamb, venison Rossini, dessert souffle.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Dinner prices: Four-course prix-fixe menu, $85; five-course, $100
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking; jacket required; no smoking.
NoMI ***
800 N. Michigan Ave.
312-239-4030
A glittering showpiece in the Park Hyatt Hotel, NoMI offers dazzling views wherever one looks, including the lavishly appointed dining room, the display kitchen complete with sushi station, and the inspiring seventh-floor views of the city. Sandro Gamba’s menu features straightforward, approachable cooking and delicate portions.
Recommended: Risotto, chocolate fondant cake.
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $28-$39
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking in dining room.
Tournesol **
4343 N. Lincoln Ave.
773-477-8820
The dining room is more elegant than its modest prices would seem to demand, and Robert Zrenner’s menu is more varied and intriguing than one might expect, too. But Tournesol regularly delivers more than it has to, which is a large part of its considerable charm.
Recommended: Escargots with mushrooms, frog legs, pan-seared trout, steak frites, bittersweet chocolate mousse.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $13-$22
Credit cards: DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
NORTH
Carlos’ ****
429 Temple Ave.
Highland Park
847-432-0770
This bastion of fine dining is looking rather modern these days, thanks to a floor-to-ceiling redecoration project. The main dining room downstairs is now clad in rich cherrywood panels, and new marble floors are topped with cream-colored carpets in a Cubist-inspired pattern. The area of least change is in the kitchen, where Ramiro Velasquez routinely produces exciting, playful and unpredictable dishes so beautifully presented they seem ready for a magazine cover.
Recommended: Hamachi-ahi pave, vegetable terrine, cocoa-dusted venison, Chocolate Symphony.
Open: Dinner Wed.-Mon.
Entree prices: $32-$39.50
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Required
Noise: Hushed
Other: Valet parking; jacket required; no smoking.
WEST
Bistro Banlieue ***
44 Yorktown Convenience
Center, Lombard
630-629-6560
Muted yellow walls give a golden glow to this splendid west suburban charmer, whose well-executed bistro menu abounds with customer-friendly touches, such as petite-portion entrees for smaller appetites. The spacious outdoor patio is leagues beyond the typical plastic-furniture wonderland others offer.
Recommended: Roast duck, steak Banlieue, chocolate mousse.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $12.95-$26.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Bistro Marbuzet **
7600 W. Madison St.
Forest Park, 708-366-9090
Jack Jones’ venture in the western suburbs (he also owns Jack’s on Halsted and Atlantique in Chicago) takes its name from a well-regarded Bordeaux chateau, but that’s about the only upper-crust aspect to this handsome and affordable bistro. The dining room, by designer Nancy Warren, is eye-catching and comfortable; the front bar has a nice selection of wines by the glass and room enough to accommodate a jazz combo for weekend entertainment.
Recommended: Four-cheese pizza, grilled-pear salad, steak frites, sundae Marbuzet.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. , brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $13.95-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
Cafe 36 ***
22 Calendar Court
La Grange, 708-354-5722
The name refers to the restaurant’s original location, abandoned a while ago, but Reinhard Barthel’s classic French-Continental cuisine is impressive whatever the address. There are always three or more game dishes on the menu, varying with the season.
Recommended: Shrimp, lobster, scallop mousse, creme brulee.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $11.95-$27
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Chez Francois **
14 S. Third St.
Geneva, 630-262-1000
The former Spanish tapas restaurant Granada underwent a smooth transition to a French format by chef/owner Francois Sanchez, who was born in Spain but grew up in southern France. The regular menu comprises modestly priced, traditional bistro dishes; the daily specials card offers more ambition.
Recommended: Charcuterie plate, seafood-vegetable terrine, sauteed skate, duck breast, orange crepes.
Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $12.50-$19.95
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Maison **
30 S. LaGrange Rd.
LaGrange, 708-588-9890
This charming and civilized dining room has come a long way since its 2001 opening. Service now exhibits personality and professionalism, the progressive-French menu (which changes every six weeks) is consistently interesting and prices have dipped a little.
Recommended: Onion tart, pistachio-crusted walleye, mixed game grill, tarte Tatin. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $12-$26
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V Other: Wheelchair accessible; $3 valet parking available; no smoking.
NORTHWEST
NEW
Bistro Kirkou **
500 Ela Rd.
Lake Zurich, 847-438-0200
Kirk Pepper was introduced to fine dining “as soon as I was able to sit in a chair,” he says, and apparently he was paying attention. His first restaurant has the sort of delightful atmosphere and considerate service touches that turn customers into lifelong friends. Chef Marc Montagna’s menu includes some delicious game options in addition to bistro classics.
Recommended: Duck pithivier, onion soup, roasted pheasant, skate wing, almond profiteroles.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Thu.-Fri.
Entree prices: $16-$26
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot; smoking in bar only.
NEW
Le Francais ***1/2
269 S. Milwaukee Ave.
Wheeling, 847-541-7470
This 30-year-old restaurant is now under the direction of chef Michael Lachowicz, who brilliantly executes the classic-French, luxury-ingredient cuisine of Le Francais’ heyday. The redecorated dining room is comfortably formal but bereft of stuffiness; service, led by a trio of Le Francais veterans, is as sharp and professional as ever.
Recommended: Pithivier de canard, Kobe beef with foie gras, game trio, Dover sole, raspberry souffle, chocolate trio.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Prices: Prix-fixe dinners, $60-$90
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; valet parking; jackets required Sat. evenings.
Le Titi de Paris ***1/2
1015 W. Dundee Rd.
Arlington Heights
847-506-0222
Open since 1972 but not showing a bit of its age, Le Titi is absolutely at the top of its game. Chef/owner Pierre Pollin, abetted by chef de cuisine (and heir apparent) Michael Maddox, produces breathtaking dishes that range from the most delicate, artful compositions to hearty creations that qualify as comfort food. With sommelier and maitre d’ Marcel Flori imparting a refined yet relaxed personality to the dining room, a high-quality evening is assured.
Recommended: Sweetbreads, lobster tian, red snapper with lobster consomme, lamb shank, chocolate Ambrosia.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Fri.
Entree prices: $28.50-$31.50
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Le Vichyssois ***
220 W. Ill. Hwy. 120
Lakemoor, 815-385-8221
A bit of a haul for most Chicagoans, but what you spend on gas you’ll save on wine, as Le Vichyssois has what might be the most modestly priced wine list in the area. The real draw, however, is Bernard Cretier’s exquisite French dishes, always in perfect balance. The sauces are so good you’ll want to take them home, and guess what? You can.
Recommended: Asparagus flan, smoked-salmon terrine, veal kidneys, salmon en croute.
Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.
Entree prices: $17.25-$34.50
Credit cards: DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.
SOUTH
Tallgrass ***1/2
1006 S. State St., Lockport
815-838-5566
Far from the bustle of Chicago sits this uncommonly good restaurant, whose charms draw customers from 60 miles and more. The restaurant sits in a small house decorated in Victorian splendor; the cuisine by chef/owner Robert Burcenski is equally impressive, though more contemporary in presentation.
Recommended: Shrimp in three styles, lobster basket, pancetta-crusted pike, duck and goose breast, chocolate-raspberry tower.
Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.
Dinner prices: Prix-fixe menus, $45-$75
Credit cards: M, V
Reservations: Required
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible
German
CITY
CLASSIC
The Berghoff
17 W. Adams St.
312-427-3170
A must-stop on any first-time visitor’s list. The Berghoff, more than a century old, is so awash in Chicago history it’s easy to relegate it to the past. But the restaurant, which continues to offer solid, no-nonsense German standards and American dishes, is holding its own at a time when many of Chicago’s German restaurants are closing.
Recommended: Wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten, sausage combination, sirloin steak salad, Black Forest cake.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $10.95-$22.95
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; reduced parking rates after 4 p.m. at Mid-Continental Plaza.
Glunz
Bavarian Haus *
4128 N. Lincoln Ave.
773-472-4287
The first German restaurant to open in Chicago in years is a comfortable spot whose strengths are good German beers and wines and hearty German specialties. The kitchen strays into some American dishes with mixed results, and waiters need to work on their communication skills, but this is a good addition to a dying genre.
Recommended: Pork-shank sulze, salmon tartare, wiener schnitzel, veal goulash, apple strudel.
Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $12.95-$32.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Greek
CITY
Costa’s **
340 S. Halsted St.
312-263-9700
– – –
1S130 Summitt Ave.
Oakbrook Terrace
630-620-1100
– – –
Very good cooking and extremely friendly service characterize these city and suburban Greek spots, whose spacious dining rooms are done in terra-cotta and white tones with oak trim.
Recommended: Stuffed calamari, shrimp piperates, taramosalata, whole sea bass, Athenian chicken.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.
Papagus ***
Embassy Suites Chicago
620 N. State St.
312-642-8450
The menu at this River North hot spot relies heavily on mezedes, small appetizer plates similar to Spanish tapas and equally suited to grazing. The food is fresh, imaginative and carefully crafted. Service is very informative and efficient. A second Papagus, in Oakbrook Center in Oak Brook, is nearly identical.
Recommended: Tirosalata (feta-cheese spread), grilled octopus, spanakopita, broiled lamb chops, baklava, lemon-yogurt cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $9.95-$24.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking after 5 p.m; outdoor cafe.
NEW
The Parthenon (2 forks)
314 S. Halsted St.
312-726-2407
The Parthenon is a longstanding presence on the expanding South Halsted strip of Greek restaurants, and a much better-looking one after an interior remodeling a few years ago. The menu, however, remains tried and true, and you’ll still find waiters carrying armloads of plates of thick cheese slices, which they dramatically douse with brandy and then, even more dramatically, ignite, to create saganaki.
Recommended: Gyros, horiatiki salad, lamb chops.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $7.50-$11.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.
NORTH
NEW
Periyali Greek Taverna (2 forks)
9860 Milwaukee Ave.
Glenview, 847-296-2232
Periyali’s spacious, taverna-style interior and large outdoor patio are the perfect backdrop for some Greek specialties not found elsewhere. Be sure to explore the interesting appetizers, including soutzoukakia sharas, char-grilled beef and lamb meatballs seasoned with garlic and oregano.
Recommended: Gigandes plaki (extra-large lima beans in a sauce with tomato, onion, celery and dill), roasted piglet, bogatsa (a strudel-like dessert).
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6.95-$14.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.
Hawaiian
CITY
Roy’s **
720 N. State St.
312-787-7599
Roy Yamaguchi has turned his Hawaiian-fusion cooking style into a culinary empire; his Roy’s in Chicago, the 31st of a growing chain, offers many of Yamaguchi’s signatures, plus daily specials from chef/partner Tom Hope. Asian-accented Pacific seafood is the menu’s main thrust, but there’s a surprising number of meat dishes. The handsome dining room is warm and gently lit and blessedly bereft of tiki kitsch.
Recommended: Blackened ahi, dynamite oysters, miso butterfish, jade-pesto snapper, chocolate souffle.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $20-$30
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
Hungarian
CITY
Paprikash Hungarian Restaurant (3 forks)
5210 W. Diversey Ave.
773-736-4949
Hearty, delicious Hungarian dishes feature meats often flavored with paprika and sour cream that are served in a pleasant Old World atmosphere. One unusual twist: The kitchen is up front near the windows, not in back. The kitchen stays open late.
Recommended: Cream of mushroom soup, garlic puffed bread, gulyas, paprikash.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5.95-$15.50
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Indian
CITY
Klay Oven (4 forks)
414 N. Orleans St.
312-527-3999
This 15-year-old upscale Indian spot obviously specializes in Tandoori (clay oven) dishes, and it also has lots of Karahi (Indian wok) offerings. The staff, which is overseen by the charming owner and host Prem Khosla, is quite knowledgeable about the large menu, whose dishes are subtle and fresh tasting, and include plenty of vegetarian choices.
Recommended: Aloo paratha (clay-oven baked bread filled with mashed potato), mila jhula appetizer assortment, jheenga nariyal (shrimp in coconut sauce).
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; shared valet.
Monsoon ***
2813 N. Broadway
773-665-9463
Traditional Indian flavors meld in decidedly non-traditional preparations at this upscale Indian-Asian concept. There are a few familiar dishes, such as the crunchy shrimp pakora or pappadum-wrapped langoustines, but the kitchen’s strength lies in its more experimental and playful offerings, such as ghee-poached lobster on a bed of parmesan-enriched sooji. The dining room is as contemporary as the food, full of curvy accents and draped fabrics.
Recommended: Beef and noodle salad, tea-smoked hen, vegetable napoleon, dessert sampler.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Sabri Nehari (3 forks)
2511 W. Devon Ave.
773-743-6200
The big, clean bilevel dining room at this eatery sports white stuccoed walls, Indian film music and familiar Indian and Pakistani fare.
Recommended: Chicken biryani, goat biryani, pakoras, samosas, kebabs.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $7-$15
Credit cards: DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 10 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; children’s menu.
NEW
Vermilion **
10 W. Hubbard St.
312-527-4060
No kitschy elephant decor, no droning sitar music, no usual-suspect buffet items; Vermilion eschews cliches in favor of contemporary looks and flavors. The dining room features beat-driven lounge music and blow-up prints by an Indian fashion photographer; the menu mixes Indian and Latin-American styles and ingredients with lively results, though the occasional traditional dishes are executed beautifully as well.
Recommended: Mysore lamb chops, tamarind ribs, lobster Portuguese, lamb vindaloo.
Recommended: Beef and noodle salad, tea-smoked hen, vegetable napoleon, dessert sampler.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Valet parking; smoking at bar only.
NORTH
Mt. Everest Restaurant (3 forks)
618 Church St.
Evanston, 847-491-1069
A diner can’t come much closer to traditional Indian cuisine than Mt. Everest Restaurant. From the Himalayan paintings to the diverse menu, this restaurant is full of color and flavor.
Recommended: Chicken takka masala, momo chicken, chicken curry, khasi ko m**su.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $7.95- $17.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible
WEST
Khyber Pass (4 forks)
1031 Lake St., Oak Park
708-445-9032
Mohammad Jawid’s restaurant offers a sensational culinary passage to a rich and varied Indian cuisine.
Recommended: Samosa, onion kulcha, Khyber n**n, tandoori chicken, chicken mukhni, bengan bhurta, vegetable biryani, rice pudding.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $4.50-$17
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Shree (4 forks)
655 N. Cass Ave., Westmont
630-655-1021
Although the strip-mall location is unattractive and the decor plain, the superior Indian vegetarian cuisine more than compensates with complex curries and massive dosas (pancakes of rice flour and ground lentils).
Recommended: Samosas, poori, soft lentil doughnuts, bangan bhartha, uthappam, ras malai.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., buffet lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $5.45-$7.95
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
NORTHWEST
Indian Garden (3 forks)
855 E. Schaumburg Rd.
Schaumburg
847-524-3007
Rich aromas of cumin, curry, cinnamon and sizzling onions waft from this restaurant, which also has Chicago and Westmont locations.
Recommended: Appetizer assortment of vegetable fritters, meats, samosa dumplings; mulligatawny soup; chicken tikka masala; gulab jamun.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $8.95-$14.95; $7.95 for lunch buffet.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout.
Italian
CITY
Bella Bacino’s Italian Bistro & Pizzeria (3 forks)
75 E. Wacker Dr.
312-263-2350
This lovely restaurant goes way beyond its signature deep-dish pizzas with an array of pastas, entrees and even breakfast fare. A warm-weather outdoor cafe is a bonus.
Recommended: Lobster-stuffed grilled calamari and baby greens, pappardelle, roasted half chicken, pizza.
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9.25-$12.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Cafe Viaggio (3 forks)
1435 W. Taylor St.
312-226-9009
This trattoria exudes sophistication with the hip decor and muted lighting that dominate its long, narrow dining room. The menu includes many traditional dishes, such as homemade manicotti and chicken marsala, but there also are some pleasant tweaks to tradition.
Recommended: Pollo orange, cavatelli Venezziana, panna cotta.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Fri, breakfast, lunch, dinner Sun.
Entree prices: $12.95-$22.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Coco Pazzo ***
300 W. Hubbard St.
312-836-0900
At one of the best Italian dining rooms in the city, the kitchen serves up brilliantly executed examples of hearty Tuscan cooking, characterized by big and bold flavors. The converted-loft dining space is similarly large and rough-hewn, though civilized touches — arty earth-and-sky centerpieces, white tablecloths, heavy velvet curtains — give the room a sophisticated air.
Recommended: Frito misto, duck-confit risotto, cheese and truffle-oil pizza, pancetta-wrapped pork, cicciolata fondante.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $15-$35
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking
Gioco ***
1312 S. Wabash Ave.
312-939-3870
Corcoran O’Connor, who worked under Paul Bartolotta at Spiaggia for five years, has established this South Loop spot as one of the finest Italian restaurants in the city. O’Connor has a fondness for simplicity and rustic flavors, which seems compatible enough with the dining room’s distressed-urban decor. The heavily Italian wine list, organized by flavor profile, is easy to navigate.
Recommended: Octopus carpaccio, pizzas, herb-stuffed striped bass, ricotta-spinach tortelloni.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $12-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking
NEW
Gio’s Cafe & Deli (3 forks)
2724 S. Lowe St.
312-225-6368
You can shop while you await your food at this restaurant, which sits smack dab in the middle of an Italian grocery and deli on a residential block in Bridgeport. The surprisingly big menu is weighted toward hearty favorites; good Italian desserts can be plucked right from the freezer case.
Recommended: Arancini, fried calamari, meat ravioli, baked cavatelli.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $5.95-$14.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; BYOB.
Il Vicinato (3 forks)
2435 S. Western Ave.
773-927-5444
A veteran of this old Italian district, Il Vicinato attracts a loyal and far-flung following. Specials are written on chalkboards in the simple, wood-paneled dining room, but there’s plenty worth checking out on the regular menu, too.
Recommended: Meat ravioli, pasta Roger, tiramisu.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $9-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
———-
Chicago Tribune Dining Guide
Janet Franz, Editor
Phil Vettel, Restaurant critic
Charles Osgood, Photographer
Gail Mitchell, Art director
Itasca Wiggins, Editorial assistant
How to contact us
Comments and suggestions are welcome.
Dining Guide, Chicago Tribune
435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611
312-222-3500; specialsections@tribune.com
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