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Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.

* = Good

** = Very Good

*** = Excellent

**** = Outstanding

Fork reviews are based on at least one visit by a Tribune staffer.

(1 fork) = Good

(2 forks) = Very Good

(3 forks) = One of the best

(4 forks) = Don’t miss it

Credit card key

A American Express

DC Diners’ Club

DS Discover

M MasterCard

V Visa

NEW = A review added since the last Dining Guide

UPDATE = A restaurant revisited since the last Dining Guide

CLASSIC = A true Chicago institution

La Vita *

1359 W. Taylor St.

312-491-1414

The most contemporary-looking Italian restaurant on the Taylor Street restaurant corridor, La Vita is low-lit enough to be romantic, though it’s too noisy on weekends for true intimacy. The chef perks up the Italian menu with the occasional creative touch, sometimes to excess, but the food is solid overall.

Recommended: Ahi tuna crostini, grilled calamari, seafood pappardelle, panna cotta.

Open: Dinner Mon-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking

NEW

Pearl **

2360 N. Clybourn Ave.

773-348-2450

Marco Conti is back, having transformed his high-end Ferrari restaurant into the less-ostentatious but still-elegant Pearl. The menu is full of dishes Conti cooked to acclaim at bygone restaurants La Locanda and La Risotteria Nord; stick to these and an excellent meal is virtually assured. The twin dining rooms are dark and mellow, though at 10:30 p.m., loud music and a club-hopping crowd imbue the place with a much higher energy level (the kitchen remains open throughout).

Recommended: Stuffed calamari, bresaola, osso buco, mushroom risotto, pera affogato.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14.95-$26.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NEW

RoSal’s **

1154 W. Taylor St.

312-243-2357

The dining room is old-fashioned enough to serve as a movie set and the menu sticks to the tried and true, but when you’re in the mood for family-style Italian food, RoSal’s fits the bill perfectly. Check out the monthly “Big Night” dinners, when the kitchen re-creates the 10-course menu from the cult film.

Recommended: Eggplant rotolo, Joe baccala, chicken piccata, veal marsala, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11-$27

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking; no smoking.

Scoozi! **

410 W. Huron St.

312-943-5900

The trend-seekers have moved on, but this reliable Italian still manages to be fresh and interesting year in and year out. A recent menu update — nothing too drastic — has introduced a couple of dishes, among them a nice veal piccata, and crisp pizzas and rich pastas continue to be fail-safe choices.

Recommended: Artichoke pizza bianco, gnocchi trio, veal piccata, chocolate Marchese.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Spiaggia ****

980 N. Michigan Ave.

312-280-2750

World-class in virtually every respect, Spiaggia reigns as Chicago’s finest Italian restaurant. Chef Tony Mantuano oversees a menu that’s true to Italian simplicity but dazzles diners with outstanding ingredients and flawless preparation. Precise, professional service is extremely personable, and Henry Bishop’s literate and vast wine list could keep a wine-lover busy for hours. The tiered, platinum-and-white dining room is magnificent.

Recommended: Pancetta-wrapped rabbit, swordfish carpaccio, potato gnocchi, baba all’arancia.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $29-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; jacket required; no smoking in dining room.

312 Chicago **

Hotel Allegro

136 N. LaSalle St.

312-696-2420

An ideal pre-theater destination, this comfortable hotel property sits within steps (or a short stroll) from three Loop theaters. What was once an Italian-accented American menu by Dean Zanella is now much more assertively Italian — and considerably improved in the process.

Recommended: Gnocchi with rabbit, pheasant with goat cheese and polenta, halibut in tomato broth.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., breakfast Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NEW

Tre Via **

1575 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-227-7990

Reasonably priced, laid back and modest to a fault, this Wicker Park gem is a real find. The kitchen produces unfussy food that emphasizes clean flavors, served in a dining room more stylish and comfortable (the attractive bar is a highlight) than you’d expect at this price level. The wine list (more than two dozen bottles under $30) is particularly appealing.

Recommended: Tre Via pizza, mussels, oven-roasted salmon, prosciutto-wrapped pork.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$23

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Vinci ***

1732 N. Halsted St.

312-266-1199

Paul LoDuca cranks out robust regional Italian food that is uniformly delightful. The dining room is awash in faux finishes and trompe l’oeil effects, all aimed at creating a pleasing rusticity. Theater proximity is a plus.

Recommended: Polenta con fungi, grilled sausage, bruschetta, pizza dell’ Ortolano, grandma’s linguine, fish stew, apple cake, zuccotto, panna cotta.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $8.95-$21.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

UPDATE

Vivere ***

71 W. Monroe St.

312-332-4040

Chef Drue Kennedy puts interesting spins on many of his dishes at this veteran Loop restaurant, at the same time respecting his food’s culinary roots. The result is a menu with delights for traditionalists and adventurers alike; add to that silky smooth service and one of the city’s great wine lists.

Recommended: Lobster gnocchi, duck breast with duck-sausage ravioli, lamb loins with tomato-horseradish sauce.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NORTH

Carlucci Lincolnshire **

250 Marriott Dr.

Lincolnshire

847-478-0990

Joe Carlucci’s first Lake County foray has been almost too successful; so many people want to dine here on weekends they sometimes overwhelm capacity, even though the place seats 300. A few bites of Luigi Negroni’s food and you’ll understand why.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, pork in sun-dried cherry sauce, linguine, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16.95-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking Fri., Sat.; smoking in bar only.

NEW

FIO **

566 Chesnut St.

Winnetka, 847-441-4600

A French-American spot that still makes room on the menu for quesadillas and fried calamari, FIO mixes old-fashioned charm with contemporary touches, both in decor and cuisine. The inside joke is that the name is an acronym for “fork it over,” but with food this capable, you probably won’t mind.

Recommended: Mushroom gnocchi, calamari, venison tenderloin, cioppino.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; parking lot.

Va Pensiero ***

1566 Oak Ave.

Evanston, 847-475-7779

One of the finest Italian restaurants in the area. Food is superb, the all-Italian wine list is stellar, and eagle-eyed waiters anticipate every need. The dining rooms are lovely, and don’t forget the brick patio in summer.

Recommended: Shrimp over risotto-onion cake and pistachio pesto, brodetto (shellfish in a zesty broth), chocolate budino, chocolate hazelnut torte.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $22-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

NEW

Carlucci ***

1801 Butterfield Rd.

Downers Grove, 630-512-0990

A bit of Tuscany in the middle of DuPage County thanks to eye-catching design elements (walled flagstone courtyard, curved dining space awash in terra cotta and green hues) and the rustic cooking of veteran executive chef John Coletta (Caliterra, Primavera). Similar in concept and menu to the Carlucci outposts in Rosemont and Lincolnshire, Coletta nevertheless has given this location a distinct culinary identity.

Recommended: Scallops with guanciale, grappa-cured salmon tartare, butternut-squash mezzaluna, Tuscan seafood stew, zucchini cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-$27.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.

NEW

Da Luciano (3 forks)

8343 W. Grand Ave.

River Grove, 708-453-1000

The hearty dishes at this bright, tidy storefront are not for anyone wary of calories. Pasta is drenched in sauce, pizza is smothered in cheese and meats are cooked in a flurry of rich ingredients. If you want to behave, eat half and take the rest home.

Recommended: Rigatoni vodka, chicken cacciatore, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$16.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Jim & Pete’s (3 forks)

7806 W. North Ave. Elmwood Park

708-453-5204

Jim & Pete’s has been around since 1941, originally in Chicago and later in Elmwood Park. You’ll find a cozy elegance here, enhanced by exposed brick walls, and good Italian fare. Expect a wait at peak dining hours.

Recommended: Bruschetta with tomato and basil, antipasto salad, thin-crust pepperoni pizza, spinach pizza, spinach lasagna.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8-$15

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

NEW

La Piazza ***

1410 Circle Ave.

Forest Park, 708-366-4010

Gaetano Di Benedetto has earned plaudits at several high-profile Chicago Italian restaurants, and his food is just as good at this low-key spot just west of the city. In a room tricked out to resemble an outdoor square, Di Benedetto churns out excellent dishes notable for their hefty size and luxurious ingredients — no shortage of cream in this kitchen. The $40, four-course chef’s menu is a good value.

Recommended: Stracetti, stuffed calamari, red snapper with banana-curry sauce, ravioli alla Norcina, gelati.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $12-$24

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Lucca’s Ristorante & Pizzeria (4 forks)

108 W. Burlington Ave.

La Grange, 708-354-9990

This charming, diminutive storefront trattoria serves creative Italian dishes, including thin and thick pizzas.

Recommended: Gnocchi in marinara sauce, meatball sandwich, grilled vegetable pizza, margarita pizza.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.

Entree prices: $6.75-$12.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

The Pasta Shoppe & Cafe (4 forks)

116 N. Oak Park Ave.

Oak Park, 708-763-0600

Polished hardwood floors, smooth wooden tabletops, colorful ceramic plates and rustic photographs enhance an excellent menu of oh-so-fresh Italian pastas, sandwiches and salads.

Recommended: Arancini, meat-filled tortellini in cream sauce, veal- and spinach-stuffed cannelloni, four-cheese lasagna.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$17.95 Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Japanese

CITY

Bob San **

1805 W. Division St.

773-235-8888

An urban-looking restaurant with exposed rafters and stainless-steel accents. Sushi is a big part of the menu, though there is a substantial list of light entrees. The kitchen stays open late, a bonus for nightcrawlers.

Recommended: Gyoza, octopus salad, mother-and-child sashimi, Bob San handroll.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $13.95-$18.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Heat ***

1507 N. Sedgwick St.

312-397-9818

An ultra-modern and compact dining room is the setting for artful and imaginative sushi and sashimi presentations, including an 11-course kaiseki menu ($95) for the adventurous. Prices can soar, but the fish here is so fresh that some if it is (literally) still squirming.

Recommended: Spicy tuna roll, sake-marinated salmon.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon., Wed.-Sat.

Sushi prices: $2-$18

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.

Katsu (3 forks)

2651 W. Peterson Ave.

773-784-3383

Chef/owner Katsushi Imamura can pack about 80 patrons into his cozy and attractive restaurant. The Northwest Side veteran offers a menu that’s wider than those at most Japanese restaurants; even so, the best bets are to be found on the daily list of kitchen and sushi specials.

Recommended: Flounder karaage, chawan mushi, Kushikatsu pork.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $25-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

Mirai ***

2020 W. Division St.

773-862-8500

Unimpeachably fresh seafood, imaginative preparations and charming atmosphere make this arguably the best sushi restaurant in town, though the menu offers more than just sushi and sashimi. The upstairs bar is a popular hangout for younger patrons.

Recommended: Monkfish pate, horse mackerel sashimi, otoro tuna sushi, tuna steak, green tea ice cream.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18-$21

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly

recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Oysy **

888 S. Michigan Ave.

312-922-1127

Japanese tapas? That’s the basic idea behind this South-Loop spot, which features nibble-sized portions of sushi, sashimi and cooked dishes–and actually offers more cooked items than raw. The kitchen can be slow at times; it’s best to order a handful of dishes at once. The industrial-tech dining room features green-lit walls, wide expanses of unadorned glass windows and steel-framed, bamboo-plywood-topped tables and chairs.

Recommended: Toro tartare, grilled eel, lotus root tempura, firecracker maki.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Prices: $4-$14

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

NEW

Saiko ***

1307 S. Wabash Ave.

312-922-2222

An unassuming exterior hides a dining room awash in color and anime-inspired wall art. Much as he did with Chinese cuisine at next-door Opera, executive chef Paul Wildermuth turns tradition on its ear at this Japanese steakhouse, where familiar Japanese dishes are enhanced with all sorts of creative riffs such as seared ahi matched to foie-gras and pineapple spring rolls.

Recommended: Kobe beef roll, tekka don, Yokuzuna steak, ton katsu, yuzu meringue tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17-$99

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.

Starfish **

804 W. Randolph St.

312-997-2433

The electric-celadon walls and orange-red ceiling seem an appropriate backdrop to this colorful, sometimes flashy Japanese restaurant, which augments its creative sushi dishes with a handful of cooked appetizers and entrees; a good-sized sake list is a plus.

Recommended: White tuna tartare, Dynamite in shell, black dragon maki, phyllo-wrapped salmon, chirashi.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Sunshine Cafe ***

5449 N. Clark St.,

773-334-6214

Don’t be put off by the kitschy plastic entrees on display in the window and the slightly shabby dining room–what this family-friendly Japanese BYOB lacks in style it makes up for in tasty, cheap Asian comfort food. Servers dodge screaming, scampering kids to deliver shrimp dumplings, steaming bowls of soup and a variety of sizzling stir-fries.

Recommended: Dobo, udon soup, tonkatsu.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.50-$12

Credit cards: DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 7 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

Sushi Wabi **

842 W. Randolph St.

312-563-1224

An urban-chic sushi restaurant with artfully prepared food in a minimalist space highlighted by concrete slabs, structural steel and tabletops of reclaimed timber. The kitchen is a little slow, but displays of nigiri zushi and maki rolls look gorgeous when they arrive, and portions are generous. On weekends a deejay spins industrial pop to progressive jazz at a pleasantly discreet sound level.

Recommended: Unagi (sea eel), mackerel and uni (sea urchin) sushi, spider maki, dragon maki, seared tuna, poached pear mochi.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $9-$21

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTHWEST

Maki Sushi **

12 S. Northwest Hwy.

Park Ridge, 847-318-1920

You don’t see Art Deco accents in sushi bars often, but as this space is part of the historic Pickwick Theatre building, it fits. A U-shaped sushi bar is centered in the dining room, surrounded by freestanding tables. The compact menu isn’t particularly adventurous, better suited to neophytes than true aficionados. Friendly atmosphere, pretty lacquered chopsticks and a well-thought-out wine list are pluses.

Recommended: Park Ridge maki, rainbow maki, Peachy maki, Japanese cherry tart.

Open: Dinner Mon-Sat.

Entree prices: $10-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

WEST

Sushi House (4 forks)

830 E. Ogden Ave.

Westmont

630-920-8948

It’s hard to imagine a more relaxed and pleasant backdrop for Japanese food than this 8-year-old spot. Classical music plays softly while servers discreetly take orders and accommodate guests, whose seating options include tables, the requisite sushi bar and private tea rooms. Great attention is paid to presentation of the dishes, which include 49 varieties of sushi and sashimi as well as prepared noodle and dinner entrees.

Recommended: Tempura soba, cha-za fried rice.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

SOUTH

House of Kobe (3 forks)

1951 Wicker Blvd.

Schererville, Ind.

219-322-1919

House of Kobe offers rowdy teppan-yaki dining as well as a large variety of pristinely fresh sushi and sashimi. It’s also lots of fun for the kids, making it a great spot for family dining.

Recommended: Alaskan red salmon steak, stir-fried steak, sushi assortment, saki skin-maki.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Korean

CITY

Jin Ju **

5203 N. Clark St.

773-334-6377

Co-owner Peter Mah spun a college business-plan assignment into this user-friendly Korean restaurant, boasting well-organized menus and highly professional service to go with the authentic, prettily presented food. A short, modestly priced wine list is a plus, as are the fanciful martinis made from soju liquor.

Recommended: Steamed dumplings, dak gan jang, kalbi, o jinga bokum.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$18

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Smoking in bar only accessible.

Kang Nam Restaurant ***

4849 N. Kedzie Ave.

773-539-2524

This large strip mall eatery is one of the best Korean barbecue houses in the city. Diners grill fabulous marinated meats, seafood and more at the table (with the help of the waitstaff). Each meal comes with rice, soup and no fewer than a dozen panchan (little salads and pickles), one more delightful than the next.

Recommended: Fried dumplings, chop chae, grilled beef short ribs.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$15.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Soju (3 forks)

1745 W. North Ave.

773-782-9000

The sweet and fiery components of Korean cooking combine perfectly at this stylish spot.

Recommended: Soju chicken, kimchi bindae duk (vegetable pancake), kalbi, bulgoggi.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $7-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

NORTHWEST

Woo Lae Oak **

3201 Algonquin Rd.

Rolling Meadows

847-870-9910

Korean barbecue is the specialty at this nattily appointed restaurant; most of the tables are equipped with built-in, gas-fired grills for tableside cooking by customers or, more often, waiters.

Recommended: Yook hwe, dumplings, dae ji gui, barbecued wild boar.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot; smoking in bar only.

Latin

CITY

La Humita (4 forks)

3466 N. Pulaski Rd.

773-794-9672

Fresh, intriguing Ecuadorean dishes mix easily with more familiar pasta selections in this tidy storefront. The place takes its name from a traditional cheese-filled tamale-like appetizer.

Recommended: Humita, rice and shrimp, potato pancakes, cheesecake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10.95-$13.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Mas **

1670 W. Division St.

773-276-8700

One of the biggest successes of the Latin explosion of 2000, this Wicker Park spot continues to pack in the crowds.

Recommended: Ceviche del dia, roasted pork tenderloin, three chocolate martini.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $17-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Bring earplugs

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking Thu.-Sat.

Nacional 27 **

325 W. Huron St.

312-664-2727

Even if you don’t Samba, you’ll have a lot of fun watching the people who do as you down tasty ceviche and tapas and a Mojito or two at this nuevo-fangled Latin restaurant, whose cuisine blends dishes from 27 Central American, South American and Caribbean nations.

Recommended: Arepas, smoked and marinated salmon ceviche, asparagus and Serrano ham tapas with manchego cheese.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $13.95-$27.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Rumba **

351 W. Hubbard St.

312-222-1226

Live music, featured Wednesdays through Saturdays, supplies most of the heat to this lively nuevo Latino restaurant in River North. Chef Israel Calderon’s menu is dominated by Cuban dishes, which aren’t very spicy; indeed, a couple of dishes are mild to a fault. Recommended: Red snapper ceviche, carne fritto, lamb chops, lemon charlotte.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$31.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.

SushiSamba Rio **

504 N. Wells St.

312-595-2300

This Japanese-Peruvian-Brazilian hybrid, based on the New York City original, is as lively as a Carnevale celebration. David Rockwell’s colorful, multi-textured design, which divides the dining room into various theatrical environments, very nearly overshadows the menu, which is dominated by imaginative sushi rolls and other light bites, with an emphasis on presentation. Bar service can be frustrating, probably because there are so many people crammed in there, waiting for a table.

Recommended: Sawagani (river crabs), Chi-Town roll, lobster seviche, deep-fried red snapper, passionfruit Pudim.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $18-$35

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in lounge only.

WEST

Cafe Cubano (3 forks)

7426 W. North Ave.

Elmwood Park

708-456-6100

This quaint and colorful storefront is a suburban offshoot of the Cafe Bolero on Western Avenue. It serves a sizzling array of authentic Cuban favorites, and entrees come with ample side dishes: tender white rice, black beans and deep-fried sweet plantains.

Recommended: Stuffed yuca, ropa vieja, chicken stew, flan de leche.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.50-$22.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Mediterranean

CITY

Caliterra ***

Wyndham Chicago Hotel

633 N. St. Clair St.

312-274-4444

Saddled with a low-visibility location and no exterior signage, Caliterra is a restaurant worth seeking out. The food is a melange of Italian and Californian cuisines, executed with uncommon precision by chef Rick Gresh. However hearty the food, one should save some room to explore the impressive cheese selection, served with a bounty of accompaniments.

Recommended: Soup trio, sweetbreads with pancetta, gnocchi with veal shank, lamb chops, mascarpone cheese cake.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $13-$34

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

UPDATE

Pili Pili ***

230 W. Kinzie St.

312-464-9988

Fred Ramos (ex-Printer’s Row) has stepped in for opening chef Francois de Melogue with nary a missed step, smoothly executing favorite dishes while slowly adding his own personality to the menu. Provence dishes dominate, but there are appealing entries from destinations throughout the Mediterranean.

Recommended: Oysters with merguez sausage, skate wing, roasted rabbit, tart tatin.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12-$24

Credit cards: A. DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Wave **

644 N. Lake Shore Dr.

312-943-9200

Perhaps the hippest hotel dining room in town, this sunken space off the lobby of the W Chicago Lakeshore is a study in charcoal, gray and blue, dominated by a bright-red canopy that crests, wave-like, over the 18-seat communal table. The food is similarly sophisticated, though modestly priced.

Recommended: Fish soup, chilled prawns, rotisserie chicken, sea bass, black and white creme brulee.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; no smoking.

WEST

NEW

Isabella’s Estiatorio ***

330 W. State St.

Geneva, 630-845-8624

This Greek-accented Mediterranean restaurant has a refreshing eye for the details that make dining a pleasure. Service is top-notch, the cream-colored dining room is sunny and inviting and the moderately priced wine list is chock-full of appealing choices. Chef Sean Eastwood offers contemporary Mediterranean dishes with a few novel twists, such as a lasagna topped by lemon-yogurt bechamel sauce, and smooth pistachio creme brulee on a crunchy bed of kataifi.

Recommended: Octopus salad, Moroccan-spiced duck, olive-brined pork, galaktoboureko.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Mexican

CITY

UPDATE

Adobo Grill ***

1610 N. Wells St.

312-266-7999

The considerable promise of this Old Town restaurant has been met by chef Freddy Sanchez, who is producing some of the best Mexican cooking in town, and a greatly improved front-room staff that is very nearly at the top of its game. The beverage program, which includes stellar margaritas along with a monthly tequila tasting event, is a big plus.

Recommended: Ceviche assortment, guacamole (prepared tableside), tilapia with mushroom escabeche, venison tampiqueno.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking at bar only.

Chilpancingo ***

358 W. Ontario St.

312-266-9525

The success of Geno Bahena’s first restaurant, Ixcapuzalco, attracted the attention and the investment capital for this, Bahena’s second and most ambitious property. The spacious and well-appointed dining room is big on creature comforts, and the larger kitchen allows a more wide-ranging menu than Ixcapuzalco can attempt. But at the heart of it all is Bahena’s superior cooking, exemplified by outstanding mole sauces.

Recommended: Tostaditas de seviche, sopa de ajo, chicken breast in mole negro, salmon with peanut salsa, natillas classicas, Cafe Maya Xtabentun.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $14.50-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Frontera Grill ***

445 N. Clark St.

312-661-1434

Mexican food takes on a whole new dimension at Frontera Grill, where the authentic regional cooking of chef Rick Bayless is unsurpassed, yet marvelously accessible in concept and price.

Recommended: Sopes, queso fundido, pork with pasilla sauce, crepes.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $8-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible (elevator to lower-level restrooms); valet parking.

Platiyo **

3313 N. Clark St.

773-477-6700

Scott Harris, of the 11-location Mia Francesca empire, has another simple, easy-to-replicate concept in Platiyo, a colorful and modestly priced Mexican. Harris is joined in the venture by consulting chef Patrick Concannon and executive chef Kevin Karales, who contribute a number of creative, ambitious dishes to balance Platiyo’s by-the-numbers offerings.

Recommended: Tortilla soup, chipotle pork ribs, lamb shank, salmon with tomatillo-poblano sauce, pastel tres leches, pistachio flan.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $10.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NEW

Rique’s Regional Mexican Food (3 forks)

5004 N. Sheridan Rd.

773-728-6200

The “tricks” to the consistently satisfying level of the food at this small, casual spot are the quality of the mostly fresh ingredients and chef Enrique Cortes’ well-honed sense of timing. More than 40 items–from breakfast eggs to chicken in tomatillo and pumpkin seed sauce–grace the menu.

Recommended: Queso con chorizo, Caldo Tlalpeno (smoky chicken soup), chicken tamale.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Fri.; dinner, breakfast and lunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; BYOB.

Salpicon ***

1252 N. Wells St.

312-988-7811

Priscila Satkoff turns out wonderful regional Mexican cooking–with an emphasis on her native Mexico City–at this Old Town restaurant, decorated with brightly colored walls and furniture, and even brighter colors on the Alejandro Romero paintings. There’s a well-chosen wine list and an impressive list of tequilas, too.

Recommended: Wild mushroom soup, octopus ceviche, shrimp mojo de ajo, tequila-marinated halibut, pollo yucateca, pastel tres leches.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Taqueria La Oaxaquen (4 forks)

3382 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-545-8585

There’s a pleasant feel to this storefront, with service that aims to please. The menu is worth scouring, because it holds lots of treasures from the state of Oaxaca in Mexico.

Recommended: Sopa Azteca (chicken soup), nopales asados con chile y cebollitas (cactus appetizer), chiles rellenos, huachinango a la veracruzana (red snapper).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95-$16.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted only on weekends.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Topolobampo ***1/2

445 N. Clark St.

312-661-1434

Rick Bayless’ upscale dining room is so dramatically different than any other Mexican restaurant that it’s not just critics who are inspired to take notes. Stunning regional cuisine is matched to a superb wine list low on obvious choices; happily, well-trained staffers are quick with reliable advice. A good strategy is to opt for the five-course tasting menu ($70; $105 with matching wines).

Recommended: Seviche moderna, tequila-cured salmon, garlic soup, stuffed trout, lime tart, homemade ice creams, chocolate pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $24-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

La Quebrada (3 forks)

4859 W. Roosevelt Rd., Cicero

708-780-8110

The food seems to do an exceptional job of making up for what the decor lacks. The iron bars on the front window are not pretty, but who cares when you can fill up on regional specialties from Oaxaca, Acapulco and Teloloapan?

Recommended: Barbacoa de chivo (goat meat), pechuga surena (chicken with sour cream sauce), filete al ajillo con guajillo (catfish with garlic pepper sauce), ensalda de nopales (cactus salad).

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$11

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly (except when the jukebox is on)

Las Bellas Artes **

112 W. Park Ave.

Elmhurst 630-530-7725

This fine-dining outpost is good news for lovers of serious Mexican food in the suburbs. Not cheap, but the $39 prix-fixe dinner (five courses) is a good value.

Recommended: Black bean soup, chile relleno, chorizo pork loin, lamb, mole Amarillo.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$25

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Salbute **

20 E. 1st St.

Hinsdale, 630-920-8077

This cozy Mexican restaurant finally got its liquor license, which means patrons now can enjoy massive margaritas or wine (from a carefully chosen list) with the boldly seasoned food of Jana Amsler and Edgar Rodriguez.

Recommended: Sea bass with blackberry sauce, chumayel, Salbute (achiote-marinated chicken), monte-bello (portobello mushroom in chipotle-goat cheese sauce).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $13.95-$26.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout.

South

Hacienda Jalapenos **

15426 S. Cicero Ave.

Oak Forest

708-535-9127

Head south of the border–by which we mean 127th Street–to this delightful fine-dining Mexican restaurant, where chef Diana Davila produces sophisticated food that belies her tender years (she’s 21). Colorful linens dress up the tables in this quietly elegant dining room.

Recommended: Three-pepper crabcake, red snapper with habanero salsa, filet with salsa motulena, orange flan.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Smoking at bar only

Middle Eastern

CITY

NEW

Aladdin’s Eatery (3 forks)

614 W. Diversey Pkwy.

773-327-6300

Healthful Middle Eastern is the mantra at Aladdin’s, which is part of a 16-unit chain. The menu is huge, and choosing among the 13 appetizers, 8 soups, 12 salads, 11 dinner plates, 9 “pockets,” 20 rolled pitas and 9 “pitza pitas” can be daunting. Oh, and did we mention the not-on-the-menu and not-so-healthful selections of cakes (chocolate, fruit-filled and carrot), baklava, cookies and brownies displayed as you walk in?

Recommended: Lentil soup, chicken shawarma rolled, Mediterranean beef fafta plate.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.75-$8.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Noon O Kabab (4 forks)

4661 N. Kedzie Ave.

773-279-8899

Expansion hasn’t hurt the quality of this Persian eatery one bit. It still turns out tender, perfectly marinated and grilled kebabs; nutty, buttery basmati rice; and top-notch hummus–to name just a few of the delights.

Recommended: Kebabs, vegetable stews, spinach borani.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun

Entree prices: $8.95-$14.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

UPDATE

Reza’s **

5255 N. Clark St.

773-561-1898

This cavernous restaurant, complete with serious, white-shirted waiters, is not as down-to-earth as some of the other Middle Eastern places on this stretch of Clark. But Reza’s solid interpretations of everything from baba ghannouj to couscous to kebabs–plus complimentary appetizer nibbles and soup–make this a worthwhile destination, especially for groups. A second Reza’s is at 432 W. Ontario St. (312-664-4500).

Recommended: Fattoush salad, vegetarian shami, chengeh and koubideh kebabs, whitefish.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun

Entree prices: $10.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Parking lot; catering.

Souk **

1552 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-227-1818

Things are shaking at this Wicker Park restaurant, particularly on Wednesdays and Saturdays, when belly dancers entertain customers. New chef Daniel Wright has revitalized the menu, emphasizing strong flavors and adding a few Mediterranean influences. Disorganized and slow service needs to improve.

Recommended: Mussels charmoula, mouhamara, tagine-roasted quail, lamb chops, baklava.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11-$24

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Turkish Cuisine and Bakery (3 forks)

5605 N. Clark St.

773-878-8930

Red brick walls, kilim seat coverings and ethnic pop music welcome diners to this eatery and its authentic Turkish food. You’ll find grilled lamb and chicken in a variety of dishes as well as eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and yogurt sauces.

Recommended: Spicy adana kebab, spit-roasted doner kebab, pastrami-stuffed pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.75-$13.75

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Pan Asian

CITY

NEW

Japonais ***

600 W. Chicago Ave.

312-822-9600

There are two kitchens in this nightclubby, Japanese-European hybrid: The sushi bar, where Jun Ichikawa (Mirai) offers traditional and creative sushi and sashimi compositions, and the “hot” bar, where Gene Kato (Ohba) manages everything from panko-crusted oysters to a modern take on Peking duck. There are two sides to the dining space as well; one end dolled up in industrial decor, the other featuring organic elements. The standard appetizer-entree-dessert progression isn’t particularly valid here; it’s best to order several dishes of whatever size and share.

Recommended: Triple-unagi maki, bin cho, pachinko, sake-steamed grouper, “coffee and doughnuts” dessert.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in lounge only; valet parking.

Opera ***

1301 S. Wabash Ave.

312-461-0161

An exciting night at the opera requires neither tickets nor subtitles thanks to this upscale Chinese concept in the South Loop. Chef Paul Wildermuth turns out a few fusion creations and humorous takes on faux-Chinese dishes such as egg foo young. The low-lit dining room is open to the bar and the display kitchen; a few “vault” tables offer a bit of intimacy to a fortunate few. Save room for one of the superb desserts.

Recommended: Eight immortal squid, Tao of Shellfish, Hunan snapper, beef and broccoli, almond-milk panna cotta.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$26; tasting menu, $40-$70

Credit cards: A, M, V Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking at bar only.

Red Light ***

820 W. Randolph St.

312-733-8880

Under chef Jackie Shen, working under chef/partner Paul Wildermuth, Red Light’s cuisine is as exciting as its festive and eclectic decor. Satays, spring rolls and five-spice ribs mix merrily on a pan-Asian menu that doesn’t take itself too seriously. The a la carte menu offers an abundance of treats, but for a real treat, indulge in the chef’s tasting, a multicourse exploration of the menu, plus a few surprises.

Recommended: Bird’s Nest, Asian bouillabaisse, Hong Kong Jerry, Thai coffee, Jackie’s Chocolate Bag.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $19-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Vong’s Thai Kitchen **

6 W. Hubbard St.

312-644-8664

Loud, lively and fun, VTK offers a mix of simple Thai staples and offbeat oddities (tuna-wasabi pizza, Thai tiramisu) at prices low enough to encourage experimentation.

Recommended: Thai spring rolls, tuna-wasabi pizza, spice-crusted halibut, lemongrass chicken, Thai tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-$20.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

WEST

UPDATE

L’anne **

221 W. Front St.

Wheaton, 630-260-1234

Kei Uchikawa, late of Le Francais and the shuttered Montparnasse, has put a new spin on the French-Asian menu of this downtown-Wheaton charmer. All but gone are the original Vietnamese elements (the exception being the popular pho soup); the menu is more recognizably French and the Asian components are more likely to be Japanese, including a five-course raw dinner featured the last Tuesday of each month. The dining room is bright and cheerful for lunch, dimly lit and romantic at dinner.

Recommended: Mushroom and scallop-mousse terrine, gingered lobster, duck breast with foie-gras flan, green apple tart.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Wed.-Fri., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

SOUTH

NEW

Bamboo Blue *

18147 Harwood Ave.

Homewood, 847-799-4700

The “Asian nachos” appetizer option is your first clear signal that this south-suburban Asian restaurant is not obsessed with authenticity. Rather, the kitchen produces fun, Asian-accented creations with a Western sensibility, including a couple of steaks, at very modest prices. The wine list is budget-friendly as well, and includes some unusual bottles. The comfortable dining room is ablaze in color and attractive art.

Recommended: Mussels in coconut broth, salmon with tamarind barbecue sauce, teriyaki steak.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.

Chi Tung (4 forks)

9560 S. Kedzie Ave.

Evergreen Park

708-636-8180

This south-suburban stalwart offers full Chinese, Thai and Japanese menus, so if you’re in the mood for Asian cuisine, you’ll find what you’re after. The full menu is available every day, but there’s also a bargain ($5.99) buffet lunch Mondays-Fridays.

Recommended: Sushi, barbecued rib appetizer, beef nom tok, General Tsao’s chicken, moo shu pork.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $5.95 -$9.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Polish

CITY

NEW

Szalas Restaurant (2 forks)

5214 S. Archer Ave.

773-582-0300

The old-country decor (folk costumes hanging on the walls, a water wheel, snow sleds doubling as booths) is a fitting backdrop for the hearty fare served at this classic Polish restaurant.

Recommended: Pierogi, bigos, trout.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10-$20

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.

South

NEW

Mabenka (2 forks)

7844 S. Cicero Ave.

Burbank, 708-423-7679

Lovely carved benches at the entrance and delicious offerings in the breadbasket (including rye and pumpernickel) only hint at what’s to come at this brightly decorated spot, which stars Polish and Lithuanian food, including soups, stews and sausages.

Recommended: Pierogi, stuffed veal breast, pyzy (ground-meat-stuffed potato dumpling).

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5-$12

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.

Russian

CITY

Russian Tea Time **

77 E. Adams St.

312-360-0000

A delightful, handsome and surprisingly sophisticated ethnic gem, Russian Tea Time offers a wide-ranging and authentic menu of dishes from Russia and neighboring republics.

Recommended: Caviar and blinis, samsas (chopped-meat-filled pastries), vereniky (potato-stuffed pasta).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $19-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Seafood

CITY

Atlantique ***

5101 N. Clark St.

773-275-9191

Featuring twin dining rooms decorated with sea-green wainscotting and a colorful array of papier-mache sea creatures made by a local artist, this impressive Andersonville restaurant offers sophisticated, prettily presented seafood at very reasonable prices–most entrees are $20 or less.

Recommended: Crab cake Napoleon, veal sweetbreads, tuna tartare, bouillabaisse, Pacific salmon, N. Y. strip steak, bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking

Fri.-Sat.

NEW

Avenues ***

Peninsula Chicago Hotel

108 E. Superior St.

312-573-6754

Chicago’s finest and easily most expensive seafood specialist justifies its price tag with virtually every creation from chef de cuisine David Hayden. Clean, beautifully presented dishes offer gentle accents that let the quality of the fish shine through. And the few meat dishes on the menu are stunning as well. Service manages the tricky task of being unobtrusive, while anticipating almost every dining need.

Recommended: Seabass sashimi, paella chowder, skate wing, thyme parfait.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $28-$72

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; valet parking.

Blue Point Oyster Bar *

741 W. Randolph St.

312-207-1222

Wood-shuttered windows and retro signage highlight the look of this circa-1940s East Coast fish house, which takes its oysters very seriously (at least eight varieties featured daily) and does good-to-excellent work on its other offerings.

Recommended: Crawfish, fresh oysters, grilled octopus, grilled scallops, sesame-crusted Ahi tuna, mile high chocolate cake, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14.95-$39.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Bob Chinn’s Crabhouse Chicago **

321 N. LaSalle St.

312-822-0100

An upscale version of the original Bob Chinn’s in Wheeling, the city Chinn’s serves food on china and its beverages in appropriate stemware — but otherwise it’s the same concept, featuring impeccably fresh seafood, prepared simply. There’s also a 200-seat riverside patio.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, ahi poke, steaks, Dungeness crab, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Bring earplugs

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

CLASSIC

Cape Cod Room

Drake Hotel

140 E. Walton Pl.

312-787-2200

This veteran hotel seafooder still sports a dark nautical decor that dates back decades. But the seafood is still reliably good, whether it’s fist-sized oysters at the bar, classic Dover sole or a contemporary dish from the “new Cape Cod” section of the menu.

Recommended: Bookbinder soup, smoked-salmon and smoked-trout terrine, lobster thermidor.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $22-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab **

60 E. Grand Ave..

312-379-5637

This half-sibling to the famous Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami is open year-round, even when stone crabs are out of season, which explains the mouthful of a name. Stone crabs are the highlight, of course, but very good prime steaks and decent seafood should keep the crowds happy in the summer months, too.

Recommended: Stone crab claws, shrimp de jonghe, crab cakes, lamb chops, bone-in filet, N.Y. strip steak, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $17.95-$39.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Shaw’s Crab House ***

21 E. Hubbard St.

312-527-2722

– – –

1900 E. Higgins Rd.

Schaumburg

847-517-2722

– – –

Great fish, great oysters and great variety are the hallmarks of these seafood houses, which recently added Japanese maki rolls to the menu. The downtown location wears its 1940s look well, and the adjacent Blue Crab Lounge offers music frequently. The Schaumburg spot boasts the Red Shell, a less-formal adjunct with a moderate, shrimp-rich menu.

Recommended: Crab cakes, sashimi tuna, oysters, blue crab fingers, Dover sole, grilled salmon, N’Awlins spicy shrimp, pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. (city),

Mon.-Sun. (suburbs)

Entree prices: $15.95-$49.95

Credit cards: A,DC,DS,M,V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTH

Oceanique ***

505 Main St.

Evanston, 847-864-3435

This intimate, upscale French restaurant has a knack with fish and seafood that few can match. Chef-owner Mark Grosz’s creations are as beautiful as they are tasty, and his six-course tasting menu is a fine way to appreciate his range. Equally impressive is a handful of meat entrees. Good service and a deep wine list add to the first-rate experience.

Recommended: Scallops in lobster-cilantro broth, artichoke-bean salad, baked salmon, peppered lamb loin, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $22-$32; six-course tasting menu, $60. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; no smoking.

WEST

120 Ocean Place **

120 Hale St.

Wheaton, 630-690-2100

Amid soaring peaked ceilings (the space was once a church, as the stained-glass window testifies) and faux-marble columns, this west-suburban restaurant cranks out terrific seafood. The large menu, which changes daily, offers plenty of variety.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, oysters, spicy shrimp, Maine diver scallops, grilled striped bass, pepper-grilled mahi mahi, tartufo, creme brulee, lemon tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $15.95-$35.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Parkers’ Ocean Grill **

1000 31st St.

Downers Grove

630-960-5701

Chef Patrick McLaughlin is steering this worthy seafood restaurant with a steady hand. Fish and shellfish dishes are perked up by the occasional Asian influence, but for the most part this is top-quality seafood, unfussily prepared. The contemporary, wood-trimmed dining room, accented with colorful artwork, is handsome enough for a special occasion.

Recommended: Nachos chinois, grilled grouper, cedar-roasted sturgeon, ice cream tower, chocolate gateau.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

SOUTH

Phil Smidt’s (3 forks)

1205 N. Calumet Ave.

Hammond, Ind.

800-376-4534

This 450-seat Northern Indiana mainstay has been drawing Chicagoans to its pan-fried perch and frog legs specialties for decades. One taste and you’ll know why.

Recommended: Perch, frog legs, walleye pike, gooseberry pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11.50-$46.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Tin Fish ***

18201 S. Harlem Ave.

Tinley Park, 708-532-0200

This casual south suburban seafooder offers the usual assortment of fresh oysters, whole steamed lobsters, crab legs and a handful of prime steaks. There’s also a design-it-yourself aspect to most of the fin fish; customers choose a fish, preparation style and accompaniment from a half-dozen choices each. The chef’s recommendation is clearly indicated, but it’s fun to mix and match.

Recommended: Asian tuna tartare, crab cake, cornmeal-crusted whitefish, blackened mahi-mahi, bourbon pecan pie.

Open:: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon-Fri.

Entree prices: $12.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet Tue.-Sat.; smoking in bar only.

Soul/Southern

CITY

Army & Lou’s **

422 E. 75th St.

773-483-3100

This place is a South Side treasure. The handsome decor features linen-topped tables and a soothing red-and-cream color scheme. Walls are adorned with African and Haitian art. Yet prices remain low. Ribs are very good, and the fried chicken is arguably the best in town.

Recommended: Mustard and turnip greens, fried chicken, barbecued ribs, fried catfish, peach cobbler.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $5.95-$19.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Other: Wheelchair accessible; small parking lot adjoins building.

NEW

Jackie’s Place (3 forks)

425 E. 71st St.

773-483-4095

“Sunday Dinner Any Day of the Week” is the motto here, and Jackie’s does have the everyone-is-family feel. The breakfast menu (which includes things like salmon patties with 2 eggs or liver and fried eggs, each served with a choice of sides) is available any time of day, and the grits are the best you’ll get. There are also honest-to-goodness hoecakes from the griddle instead of the usual baked cornbread.

Recommended: Grits, hoecakes, smothered chicken legs and pork chops.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.75-$11

Credit cards: Not accepted

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.

NEW

Pearl’s Place (2 forks)

The Amber Inn

3901 S. Michigan Ave.

773-285-1700

Though this is a sterile, great big rec-room of a restaurant attached to a motel it has no association with, the food (“Southern Soul with a Touch of Creole,” as it’s billed on the menu) is terrific.

Recommended: Macaroni and cheese, fried chicken, fried catfish.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.25-$17.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Spanish

WEST

Emilio’s Tapas Bar Restaurant **

4100 W. Roosevelt Rd.

Hillside, 708-547-7177

This small restaurant has a rustic, cozy Spanish atmosphere with wonderful, satisfying food. Emilio’s menu lists more than 18 tapas along with daily specials.

Recommended: Garlic potato salad, spicy chicken wings, paella, sangria, rice pudding.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14.50-$18.50

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

La Tasca **

25 W. Davis St.

Arlington Heights

847-398-2400

This is one of the best Spanish restaurants in the city or suburbs. Appetizers are all tapas, delicious nibbles best ordered in bulk and passed around the table. The relatively few main courses include several paellas, which are sized for two but will feed more easily.

Recommended: Grilled baby octopus, sauteed sea scallops, paella Valenciana.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun

Entree prices: $3.50-$11.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking at bar only.

Steak

CITY

Chicago Chop House ***

60 W. Ontario St.

312-787-7100

Often overlooked among Chicago’s top steakhouses because of its touristy location, the Chop House nevertheless can run with the big dogs. Steaks are first rate, the wine selection is impressive and service is unfailingly attentive.

Recommended: Filet mignon, New York strip, lamb chops.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $17.95-$38.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Gene & Georgetti ***

500 N. Franklin St.

312-527-3718

As an old-fashioned “real guy” steakhouse, this place is unsurpassed. A see-and-be-seen restaurant of another age, Gene & Georgetti attracts a loyal and regular clientele, who come to view the politicians and enjoy the massive, impeccably prepared steaks.

Recommended: Strip steak, lamb chops, calf liver, chicken Vesuvio, prime rib, garbage salad, cheesecake, spumoni.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $16-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.

Gibsons **

1028 N. Rush St.

312-266-8999

One of the city’s finest steakhouses, as the crowded dining room and even more crowded bar attest. Strengths include an attractive interior, superior beef and knowledgeably opinionated waiters.

Recommended: Spinach salad, onion rings, filet mignon, barbecued ribs, strawberry shortcake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $21.75-$33

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly

advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

The Grillroom **

33 W. Monroe St.

312-960-0000

Across the street from the Shubert Theatre and within walking distance of at least four others, The Grillroom is an ideal pre-theater destination (and handy Loop lunch spot) , which is why the menu ranges far beyond most steakhouse staples.

Recommended: Steakhouse wings, ribeye steak, filet mignon, fallen souffle cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Harry Caray’s **

33 W. Kinzie St.

312-828-0966

– – –

10233 W. Higgins Rd.,

Rosemont, 847-699-1200

– – –

Legendary baseball broadcaster Harry Caray died in 1998, but his spirit lives on in this bustling place, an Italian steakhouse with sports-themed decor and an old-fashioned charm personified by white-jacketed, eagerly accommodating service. The award-winning wine list is a distinct plus.

Recommended: Grilled baby octopus, lamb chops oreganato, chicken Vesuvio, Sicilian veal chop, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Magnum’s Prime Steakhouse **

225 W. Ontario St.

312-337-8080

– – –

777 E. Butterfield Rd.,

Lombard, 630-573-1010

– – –

1701 W. Golf Rd.

Rolling Meadows

847-952-8555

– – –

Despite the macho name, this city steakhouse and its suburban siblings are sophisticated and civilized. Decor is stylish, service is knowing (if a bit by-the-numbers) and steaks are first-rate. Do be prepared to deal with noise.

Recommended: Lobster tail, ribeye steak, lamb chops, veal chop.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch (suburbs only) Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$125

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Bring earplugs

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Morton’s of Chicago ***

1050 N. State St.

312-266-4820

You won’t find a better steak than the thick, beefy beauties cooked here. The attractive dining room does a good job of overcoming its windowless basement locale; tables are close together, but it’s a convivial crowd. Civilized touches include excellent service, a very good wine list and classy ambience.

Recommended: Steaks, veal chop, baked potato, dessert souffle for two.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $19.95-$42

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discount parking with validation.

Rosebud Steakhouse **

192 E. Walton Pl.

312-397-1000

Undoubtedly the most

laid-back link in the sometimes frenetic Rosebud Restaurants chain, this neighborhood steakhouse offers first-rate steaks, surprisingly varied seafood choices and excellent service. And though the atmosphere is low-key, starched linen and tuxedo-clad service indicate the restaurant isn’t cutting back on the finer points of fine dining.

Recommended: Southern-fried oysters, bone-in filet, osso buco (Thursdays only), burger, apple-caramel cheesecake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$37 Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Shula’s Steak House **

Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers

301 E. North Water St.

312-670-0788

– – –

Wyndham Northwest Chicago

400 Park Blvd., Itasca

630-775-1499

– – –

The winningest coach in NFL history has a hot streak going with his signature chain. The menu is printed on a regulation football, the walls are festooned with pictures of Shula’s undefeated 1972 Miami Dolphins and the only thing you’ll ever hear on the sound system is Frank Sinatra. But the aged steaks are very good and service is prompt and accommodating. Note: The Itasca location also serves breakfast and lunch (no lunch Sundays).

Recommended: Barbecued shrimp, porterhouse steak, prime rib, chocolate souffle for two.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $20.95-$65.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Validated valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Smith & Wollensky **

318 N. State St.

312-670-9900

This impressive steakhouse sits at the base of Marina City. Part of a New York chain, it offers succulent, aged-on-premises steaks, hefty lobsters dusted with cayenne pepper and a monstrous twice-cooked pork shank. The light-filled dining room is decorated with American art; an outdoor patio overlooks the Chicago River. Wollensky’s Grill offers smaller-portioned steaks and keeps late-night hours.

Recommended: Crab cakes, lobster cocktail, Wollensky salad, sirloin steak, Angry Lobster, apple betty.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $25-$65

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTH

UPDATE

Pete Miller’s Seafood

& Prime Steak **

412 N. Milwaukee Ave.

Wheeling, 847-243-3700

Even at 375 seats, there’s not always enough room at this steakhouse for everyone. The prime steaks are excellent, but more memorable are such touches as lower-priced menu items, live no-cover jazz and blues and kid-friendly features. The original Pete Miller’s in Evanston is smaller, but offers the same menu.

Recommended: Seared tuna, burger, beef wellington, bleu cheese-crusted ribeye.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17-$50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Krapil’s (2 forks)

6600 W. 111th St.

Worth, 708-448-2012

A rustic-looking, old-fashioned steakhouse where the placemat is also the menu (prices aren’t listed) and steaks come in big, bigger and enormous sizes.

Recommended: T-bone steak, strip steak.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: 12.50-$50

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Swedish

CITY

Classic

Ann Sather

929 W. Belmont Ave.

773-348-2378

A warm and friendly hangout that has nurtured a generation of budget-conscious diners, Ann Sather is pure comfort, from the legendary cinnamon rolls at breakfast to the blueberry pie at night. Entrees include a starter course and a couple of side dishes, and no one walks away hungry. There are three other Ann Sather locations scattered about the North Side, but only this location serves dinner every night.

Recommended: Duck with lingonberry sauce, Swedish meatballs, pickled herring, cinnamon rolls.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.50-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted only for parties 6 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free parking lot

Svea (2 forks)

5236 N. Clark St.

773-275-7738

Cinnamon roll-slinging Ann Sather packs ’em in on weekends, but we prefer this tiny breakfast and lunch spot, decked out with blue- and yellow-checked tablecloths, blue wood paneled walls and an old-timey lunch counter.

Recommended: Viking breakfast, Three Crown Special.

Open: Breakfast and lunch (or very early dinner) Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5-$9

Credit cards: Not accepted

Reservations: Accepted only for large parties

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Thai

CITY

Amarind’s (4 forks)

6822 W. North Ave.

773-889-9999

Amarind’s is too good to be true. The interior is unassuming–and spotless. Thai artwork on the walls is handsome. The Thai menu offers high-class fare that just doesn’t cost very much.

Recommended: Tom yum shrimp soup, spicy curry pork, moo ping, bay scallop salad, spinach noodles with seafood.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $7.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Arun’s ****

4156 N. Kedzie Ave.

773-539-1909

Mention that you’re

having dinner at Arun Sampanthavivat’s tower of Thai and watch people turn green with envy. There’s no menu here: after divulging your likes, dislikes and tolerance for spiciness with the waiter, you simply sit back and enjoy the parade of four appetizers, seven small entrees and dessert. Each complex combination of flavors is as artfully constructed as the incredibly beautiful dishes themselves. The wine list is small, but every bottle is very carefully chosen.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Dinner price: $85 (12-course tasting menu)

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly advised

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Erawan **

729 N. Clark St.

312-642-6888

Two former Arun’s workers are part of the partnership behind this pretty River North restaurant, which is decorated with stunning Thai artworks, including a replica khan tho roof. The food is firmly Thai-rooted, but it boldly incorporates Western ingredients and techniques.

Recommended: Chicken and foie gras shu mai, venison satay, whole red snapper, tea-smoked poussin.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $18-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Spoon Thai (4 forks)

4608 N. Western Ave.

773-769-1173

It might not be obvious why this tiny storefront eatery in Lincoln Square is so special. But enter the attractive room with its friendly proprietors and you’ll discover food in flavors and combinations not seen elsewhere in Chicago.

Recommended: Curried catfish custard, mien cam (lettuce leaves folded over dried shrimp, ginger, lime, onion, cilantro and toasted coconut), marinated fried chicken with sweet spicy dipping sauce.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95-$6.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

NEW

TAC Quick Thai Kitchen (3 forks)

3930 N. Sheridan Rd.

773-327-5253

The portions are generous, the presentation is masterful and the service is enthusiastic at this small, minimalist storefront. Don’t be afraid to order from the Thai-language version of the menu, which holds some pleasant surprises.

Recommended:Moo ping (grilled pork skewers), sai krog (fermented sausage), green curry.

Open: Lunch and dinner Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $5-$8

Credit cards:A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for large parties

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking; BYOB.

West

NEW

Bistro Thai (3 forks)

110 N. 3rd St.

St. Charles, 630-587-9595

The dining room here exudes a restful, Asian-inspired beauty, and the familiar array of Thai favorites are prepared with care and fresh ingredients, with considerable attention given to presentation.

Recommended: Bistro Thai sampler, pad woodsen (glass noodles with vegetables), khee mao (wide rice noodles with jalapenos, tomatoes and basil).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$11.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Thipi Thai (3 forks)

50 S. La Grange Rd.,

La Grange, 708-588-1002

This upscale Thai restaurant blends comfort with elegance. Gold-plated bamboo-shaped flatware and Asian-inspired dishware set the stage for the artfully plated entrees, many familiar to Thai food aficionados: vegetable spring rolls, chicken satay, pad siew, pad Thai. The spicy food really is–so keep the water glass filled.

Recommended: Basil eggplant, lard nar.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.95-$16.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

Vegetarian

CITY

NEW

Alice & Friends Vegetarian Cafe (3 forks)

5812 N. Broadway

773-275-8797

This pan-Asian veggie eatery’s name references “Alice in Wonderland,” and the off-kilter but cutesy decor has an appropriately hallucinogenic quality. We’ve never encountered such convincing soy-based meat substitutes, from “un-chicken” with crunchy simulated skin to “un-beef” with spot-on texture.

Recommended: Tempura-fried organic oyster mushrooms, barbecue un-chicken “drumsticks,” “White Rabbit’s favorite” (veggie burger).

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Sat.

Entree prices: $7-$13

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

West

NEW

Sri Ganesh Cuisine (3 forks)

837 E. Roosevelt Rd.

Lombard, 630-620-9175

If you overlook the nondescript strip-mall location, you’ll be rewarded with an expansive array of Northern and Southern Indian dishes–all vegetarian. Dosai–giant, crispy crepes rolled around a variety of fillings–are a specialty and come in 13 varieties.

Recommended: Rasam (a fiery, tomato-based soup), chana masala (chickpeas and potatoes in a tomato sauce), carrot halwa (shredded, sweetened carrots with cashews, peanuts and raisins).

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch buffet Tue.-Fri., lunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.45-$8.95; lunch buffet, $6.95.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; BYOB.

Vietnamese

CITY

Hai Yen Restaurant (3 forks)

1055 W. Argyle St.

773-561-4077

The menu at this neat, classy spot stars Vietnamese items, with particular attention paid to regional variances. A few Chinese dishes play

supporting roles.

Recommended: Bo nhung giam, cang cua boc tom, che ba mau.

Open: Dinner and lunch Thu.-Tue.

Entree prices: $6.50-$13.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Le Colonial **

937 N. Rush St.

312-255-0088

With its French Saigon atmosphere (French doors, ceiling fans, bamboo) and Vietnamese fare, Le Colonial is a nice oasis from the steak and pasta rush you typically get on Rush Street. They really squeeze you in here, and service can be a little trying, but the overall experience is laid back and elegant.

Recommended: Beef salad, spring rolls, seared monkfish, filet mignon, Chilean sea bass, whole snapper, banana wonton.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Nam Viet Restaurant (3 forks)

6731 N. Northwest Hwy.

773-763-0307

White tablecloths, mirrored walls and tiny vases of fresh flowers on the tables add an elegant touch to this restaurant where lemongrass, mint and ginger flavor the Vietnamese and Chinese dishes that fill the menu.

Recommended: Vietnamese pork and shrimp pancake, catfish in a clay pot, spicy shrimp with garlic sauce.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Wed.-Fri.

Entree prices: $6.99-$15.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

Pasteur ***

5525 N. Broadway

773-878-1061

The charming design–colorful pastel walls, ceiling fans, plenty of artwork and tropical plants–makes this one of Chicago’s most comfortable Vietnamese restaurants. The excellent food makes it arguably Chicago’s finest.

Recommended: Goi cuon spring rolls, chao tom, hai san ha long, Saigonese duck.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Advised

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot after 6:30 p.m.

———-

Chicago Tribune Dining Guide

Janet Franz, Editor

Phil Vettel, Restaurant critic

Charles Osgood, Photographer

Gail Mitchell, Art director

Itasca Wiggins, Editorial assistant

How to contact us

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

Dining Guide, Chicago Tribune

435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611

312-222-3500; specialsections@tribune.com

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