(2 forks)
737 W. Roscoe St.
773-525-8888
Hours: 5 p.m.- 2:30 a.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5 p.m.-4 a.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Depends on timing
First impressions
With just eight counter stools and three stand-alone tables, there are luxury walk-in closets more spacious than this well-appointed spot tucked in the back corner of a commercial Victorian-style Lakeview building just steps from a bustling stretch of Halsted Street. Two tree-shaded tables are in front for al fresco dining.
On the plate
Any way you slice it, you’re sit-ting down to a thin-crust pizza. It’s the only entree on the menu of this tiny restaurant owned by Cliff and Mitch Einhorn of Twisted Spoke fame. Standard pizzas (whole or by the slice) can be designed according to your choice of 30 ingredients, which range from traditional cheese or sausage to more adventuresome giardiniera, goat cheese or artichoke. Special pizzas (not available by the slice) include a dessert pie topped with apples and cinnamon as well as main-course shrimp, barbecue chicken and wild mushroom. Both standard and special pizzas are available in small, medium and large sizes. Select fresh basil or garlic as a topping addition at no extra charge.
At your service
The wait staff and counter help are friendly and accommodating. But don’t let an empty restaurant lull you into thinking you’re the only customer demanding attention. The phone tends to ring often with delivery orders, which account for one third of business.
Second helpings
Wild mushrooms offered a flavorful match to the thin but very tender crust. And what a treat to satisfy personal cravings one slice at a time. Goat cheese paired deliciously with sliced tomatoes. A spinach and feta slice proved to be very tasty. So did the simple slice topped with pepperoni.
Take a pass
Don’t top your pie with French black olives. They’re canned. And unless you’re desperate for leafy greens, bypass the salad course altogether. Named for the restaurant, the dinner plate-sized serving of mixed greens came tossed with a very skimpy selection of vegetables (red onions, supermarket tomato wedges and red bell peppers).
Thirst quenchers
Sodas, bottled water and an impressive selection of specialty soft drinks are available from a case near the front door. A large bottle of Lorina French berry lemonade made the meal festive. B.Y.O.B. is allowed.
Price range
Salad, $3; one-topping pizza by the slice, $3; standard one-topping pizzas, $7.75-$13.25; special pies $10.50-$25; dessert pizza, $1-$19.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
