As we enter summer’s hottest days, electric machines that make ice cream, gelato and sorbet are all the rage. I certainly like them as much as any food lover could.
But you don’t need an expensive machine to make a great frozen dessert. You don’t even need one of those old-fashioned inexpensive hand-cranked models, complete with the bucket of ice and rock salt.
Sure, during freezing you need that constant churning, whether electrical or human-powered, to prevent large crystals from forming, thus ensuring smooth, creamy results. For centuries, however, smart chefs have known another, much easier way to produce a fine texture in a frozen dessert: Base it on sweetened meringue, folded together with whipped cream and embellished with flavorings of your choice. Packed into molds and then frozen, the mixture becomes the icy treat called a parfait–literally “perfect” in French and, well, a perfect description of the simple, refined and delicious results.
To make a parfait, the only special equipment you need is electric beaters for the cream and egg whites (a stand mixer makes the job go even faster, though a handheld model is fine), and a candy thermometer to gauge when the syrup that will sweeten the meringue has reached the right temperature. Although you can freeze the mixture in decorative individual-serving molds, I prefer simply to use loaf pans, the sort in which you would bake quick breads. By coating the pans with nonstick spray and then lining them with plastic wrap, the frozen parfait will unmold easily.
There are many ways to flavor the parfait mixture. In the recipe here, I fold in fresh ripe apricots and candied ginger; other good fruit possibilities include peaches or summer berries, either coarsely chopped or pureed. A shot of strong, cold espresso produces an eye-opening coffee parfait. Fold in melted chocolate or sprinkle in small chocolate chips, if you like. A splash of your favorite liqueur, such as orange-flavored Grand Marnier adds a touch of sophistication.
The parfait mixture can be made a good day ahead. When you’re ready to serve it, simply fold back the top flaps of plastic wrap, invert the loaf pan onto a serving platter, and peel the plastic wrap away. Fill a tall glass with hot tap water and, before cutting each slice, briefly heat the blade of a long, sharp knife in the water to help it cut more smoothly.
Transfer each slice to a chilled serving plate and garnish, if you like, with fresh summer berries or your favorite chocolate sauce or sweetened raspberry puree.
Summertime apricot and crystallized ginger parfait
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Freezing time: 12 hours
Cooking time: 6 minutes
Yield: Two 9-by-5-inch loaves, 12 servings
Orange blossom honey and crystallized ginger are sold at many specialty and natural food stores, as well as some supermarkets.
6 large apricots
1 1/2 cups whipping cream, chilled
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup orange blossom or regular honey
2 tablespoons water
4 egg whites
1/4 cup coarsely chopped crystallized ginger
1/2 cup sliced toasted almonds, optional
1 tablespoon lemon juice, optional
Fresh berries, fresh mint sprigs, optional
1. Heat a saucepan of water to a boil. Fill a mixing bowl with ice and water. Score a shallow X in the skin of each apricot. Lower the apricots into the boiling water with a slotted spoon for about 30 seconds; immediately remove them with the spoon. Transfer to the ice water; drain on paper towels. Remove the skins from the apricots; cut each in half, removing the pit. Discard pit; chop the fruit coarsely; transfer to a bowl. Set aside.
2. Evenly spray the interior of two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans sprayed with cooking spray. Line each pan with plastic wrap, allowing 4 inches of the wrap to extend beyond each long top edge. Put the pans in the freezer to chill at least 1 hour.
3. Beat the cream with a mixer on medium speed until it forms soft peaks that droop slightly when the beaters are lifted out, about 3 minutes. Set aside.
4. Stir together the sugar, honey and water in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, inserting a candy thermometer into the mixture but not touching the pan’s side or bottom, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture registers 235 degrees, about 5minutes. Remove from heat; let the bubbles disperse.
5. Put egg whites in another clean mixing bowl; beat with clean beater at low speed until they turn white and frothy and build in volume. Hold the pan of hot syrup above the bowl; still beating, carefully pour the hot syrup in a steady stream into the egg whites. Continue beating, stopping as necessary to scrape down the sides, until the egg whites triple in volume, cool, and form a firm, glossy meringue, about 7 minutes.
6. Fold the apricots and crystallized ginger into the meringue with a spatula. Fold in the reserved whipped cream until evenly blended. Fold in the almonds and lemon juice.
7. Spoon the mixture into the two chilled loaf pans. Smooth the surface. Fold the overhanging plastic wrap over the mixture. Freeze for at least 12 hours.
8. To serve, unmold and unwrap each parfait loaf. With a sharp knife dipped in hot water, slice the loaf crosswise into individual portions, transferring each slice to a chilled dessert plate. Garnish with fresh berries and mint sprigs.
Nutrition information per serving:
186 calories, 52% of calories from fat, 11 g fat, 6.9 g saturated fat, 41 mg cholesterol, 21 g carbohydrates, 2.1 g protein, 32 mg sodium, 0.4 g fiber
