(3 forks)
934 W. Webster Ave.
773-935-8466
Hours: 4 p.m.-midnight Tues.-Thurs., 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Fri.-Sat., 4 p.m.-midnight Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: No
First impressions
A mix of DePaul students, families with kids and couples can be found in this attractive corner storefront cafe and wine bar. The more romantic, dark front room holds the bar on one side and wooden tables lining the opposite wall. The back room, with windows on both sides, is airier and brighter with a fireplace at one end. The L tracks run alongside the building, so occasional pauses in conversations are necessary.
On the plate
The Italian “small” plates here are not really very small, so be careful. The tab can run up (and your stomach fill up) quickly. Best to order lightly at first, then add more as you go along. Classic and not-so-classic fare on the two-page menu include nine pastas and eight entrees plus starters and salads. Specials are chalked up on a blackboard and may include a risotto, pasta and fish of the day. Only one menu item, the bistecca, is over our Cheap Eats price limit.
At your service
The young staff is efficient and friendly. They seem well-versed in the wines, and easily make knowledgeable recommendations.
Second helpings
The grigliata mista, a small platter of seafood (grilled, slightly chewy octopus, calamari and shrimp) includes a nice lemon balsamic dressing over radicchio and endive. The Caprese salad combines decent mozzarella and sliced tomatoes and the manzo bella serves up thin but tasty slices of sun-dried beef topped with shavings of Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil. Another starter, polpetti di nonna, mixes three large pork and beef meatballs with a tangy, fresh-tasting marinara sauce. The hefty meatballs come with a crushed red pepper kick, but are a bit dry and dense for us. Gnocchi are almost as light as a souffle, floating in a yummy, rich tomato-vodka sauce. Very satisfying. Veal saltimbocca includes pieces of thin-cut meat topped with a nice tomato sauce and melted fontina cheese. A special lobster ravioli cloaks its rich seafood flavor inside tender pasta and tops it with a thick, creamy tomato sauce.
Take a pass
The chicken piccata has a good tang from the caper and lemon sauce, but the two pieces of breast meat have cooked too long. Tiramisu comes in a hefty portion, but it is dry and ordinary. Panna cotta, served in a cute espresso cup, tastes too much of the refrigerator where it was stored.
Thirst quenchers
Wine is the thing. A good-sized wine list offers a nice selection at many price points and about 40 wines by the glass. “Flights” of wine include small tastings of 3 wines for $11-$15, making this a bargain learning experience for beginning wine drinkers. Also, a full bar, espresso, soft drinks.
Extras
Occasional promotions may include wine flights for $10 on Tuesdays, half-price on wines by the glass and beers on Wednesdays, and two entrees for the price of one on Sundays.
Price range
Appetizers, $4-$9; salads, $5-$7; main courses, $6-$14; desserts, $4-$5; beverages, $1.50-$9.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
