It used to be that people just drank coffee. Then came the designer models: espressos, cappuccinos and lattes. And now, seemingly every coffee shop is selling cool, creamy blends of coffee, sugar, milk and ice–a kind of super-caffeinated milkshake–or “frozen blended coffee beverages,” as they’re known in the trade.
Starbucks has the Frappuccino, Dunkin’ Donuts has the Coolatta, Panera Bread has the I.C. Mocha and XandO has the Arctic Chiller. This summer, Dairy Queen and Krispy Kreme entered the fray with their own versions.
The appeal of these potions is obvious, especially on a hot August day.
“They’re cold and sweet, but not too sweet. And it has the coffee taste,” said Carolina De Los Rios, while drinking a Frappuccino one recent warm day at the Starbucks in Towson, Md. “I already had a regular coffee today. This is my snack.”
Because of this dessertlike quality, the drinks are popular with people who don’t normally drink coffee, said Michelle Gass, senior vice president of category management for Starbucks.
“They’re meant to be an involved, intensive treat,” Gass said.
In its most basic form, the drink is a mix of coffee, milk (or half-and-half), sugar and ice, blended into a thick shake. Many versions consist of a proprietary blend of coffee extract, sweetener and some form of dairy or non-dairy creamer. Some include additional flavors such as mocha, vanilla and caramel. More deluxe forms have chocolate chips or Oreo cookies.
Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts introduced the beverages almost a decade ago, and they have become increasingly elaborate. In 1998, Starbucks came out with its tea-based Frappuccinos; and in 2002 it rolled out a coffee-free version, the Frappuccino Blended Creme. And just this summer, the company introduced the Frappuccino Light, a lower-calorie version using reduced-fat milk and Splenda, a sugar substitute.
Starbucks usually has about 10 to 12 varieties on its menu at any one time. The company regularly introduces new flavors, often linked to the season, and phases out others.
Rachel Gross, 34, loves the new Coffee Frappuccino Light, which has 150 calories for the 16-ounce version.
“I was depriving myself of them for so long because of the calories,” Gross said.
Most of the drinks do pack a caloric wallop. A 16-ounce Caramel Frappuccino with whipped cream has 430 calories, and a 16-ounce Strawberries & Creme Frappuccino with whipped cream has 600 calories–and 17 grams of fat. Compare those to a 16-ounce cup of black coffee, which has only 10 calories.
“I suspect that very few people know how many calories these drinks have,” said Dr. Lawrence Cheskin, director of the Johns Hopkins Weight Management Center.
Some of the drinks have another little secret: Some include partially hydrogenated oil, which contains reviled trans fats that seem to stick like glue to the insides of arteries.
But when you’re enjoying that intoxicating, icy mixture, who wants to think about arteries and fat grams?
Freeze frame
In 2003, almost one-third of adult consumers drank cold coffee beverages, according to the National Coffee Association’s report on coffee trends. That’s up 45 percent from the previous year. While the category also includes iced coffee, association spokesman Joseph DeRupo said blended drinks make up most of the growth. “They’ve really taken off.”
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Edited by Cara DiPasquale (cdipasquale@tribune.com) and Kris Karnopp (kkarnopp@tribune.com)
