Two of nature’s most wonderful ingredients, apples and honey, are now available in peak-season quality and quantity. Nothing like this duo speaks to me more persuasively of approaching autumn: crisp, sweet-tart apples and deep, golden honey with its rich, floral spicy sweetness.
It isn’t surprising, then, that apples and honey play a role in so many harvest celebrations–and that, this very evening, Jews everywhere traditionally celebrate Rosh Hashanah, their New Year’s, by dipping apples in honey to symbolize their hopes for a sweet year ahead.
I love how honey and apples taste together. Anyone can enjoy them on their own as an easy dessert. Cut the fruit into wedges and sprinkle with lemon juice to keep it from oxidizing. Give each person a small bowl of honey, and let everyone dip and eat.
To enjoy the combination in a more elaborate dessert, try making an apple-honey pie. The recipe takes a little time, but every step is straightforward, and the results are well worth the effort.
I like to use Pippin or Granny Smith apples, which retain their shape well during cooking. But, being firmer than other apple varieties, they do need to be sauteed first so they’ll be perfectly tender by the end of baking.
I also toss in some dried apricots, figs and prunes, an Eastern European twist that adds wonderful variety to the texture and flavor. To plump up the dried fruit, I soak it in a little Calvados, French apple brandy, found in well-stocked liquor stores. Most of the brandy’s alcohol will evaporate during baking. If you prefer, substitute apple juice.
In the following recipe, I give instructions for a conventional top crust in which you cut several slits to vent steam during baking, ensuring crispness. For an even more spectacular effect, try topping the pie with a pastry lattice.
Roll out the dough into a 12-inch square about 1/4-inch thick, then cut it into 20 strips about 1/2-inch wide with a sharp knife or pastry cutter. On the back of a baking pan, lay 10 strips vertically, leaving small spaces between them. Then, weave a lattice: Turn back every other vertical strip (1, 3, 5, etc.), lay a horizontal strip across, and return the turned-back strips to their original positions; then, turn back the other vertical strips (2, 4, 6, etc.) and place another horizontal strip. Continue until the lattice is done, then refrigerate it until firm.
Use a 9-inch plate or pot cover as a guide to cut a circle of lattice; then, with a wide spatula, carefully transfer it to the filled pie, pinching together the edges of the top and bottom crust to seal them.
Either way, the result will be a spectacular pie filled with promise for a sweet autumn and new year.
Apple-honey pie
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Chilling time: 1 hour, 30 minutes
Standing time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 25 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
Handle this delicate crust with care when serving.
Sugar dough:
2 1/3 cups flour
2/3 cup sugar
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
2 egg yolks
1 to 2 tablespoons whipping cream
Filling and topping:
10 large Pippin or Granny Smith apples
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup Calvados or other apple brandy
1/4 cup each, chopped: dried pitted prunes, dried apricots, dried figs
3/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon each: lemon zest, orange zest
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 egg white, very lightly whisked
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1. For the dough, combine flour and sugar in a food processor; add the butter. Process until the mixture resembles fine meal. Whisk the egg yolks in a small bowl with 1 tablespoon of the cream. Scrape into the processor; process until a ball begins to form, adding more cream if necessary to bring the dough together. Remove the dough; press it down into a circle on a lightly floured surface. Wrap in plastic wrap; refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
2. To form the crust, divide the pastry into two parts. Wrap one in plastic wrap; set aside. Place the other piece on a lightly floured surface; roll into a round large enough to line and overlap a 10-by-2-inch pie plate. Transfer to the pie plate, leaving a 1/2-inch overhang. Trim the edge with a sharp knife. Tuck the overhang under itself to make a thicker rim. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes. (If using a glass pie plate, remove 15 minutes before filling.)
3. For the filling, peel, core and quarter the apples; cut into 1/4-inch slices. Divide the butter among 2 or 3 large skillets. Melt butter over medium heat until it just begins to brown and smell nutty. Divide the apples among the skillets; stir gently to coat with butter. Cook over medium heat until lightly browned and tender, 15-20 minutes, stirring often. Transfer the apples to a large baking sheet; spread out evenly to cool.
4. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Warm the brandy over medium-low heat in a small saucepan. Meanwhile, combine the prunes, apricots and figs in a small bowl; pour the brandy over the fruit. Set aside to plump for 15 minutes; drain off any excess liquid.
5. Stir together the apples, dried fruit, honey, lemon juice, cinnamon, zests and nutmeg in a large bowl. Spoon the filling into the prepared pie plate; set aside. Roll out the remaining dough to a 9-inch circle; transfer to the pie. Pinch the edges together. Cut several evenly spaced 1-inch vents in the top pastry with a knife. Brush top with egg white; sprinkle with sugar.
6. Transfer the pie to a baking sheet; bake 30 minutes. Reduce the oven to 350 degrees; bake until the crust is golden brown, 35-40 minutes more. Transfer to a wire rack to cool before serving.
Nutrition information per serving:
574 calories, 40% of calories from fat, 27 g fat, 16 g saturated fat, 109 mg cholesterol, 84 g carbohydrates, 5 g protein, 15 mg sodium, 5 g fiber
