One of my favorite times of year when I was a boy was autumn, which marked the start of mush-room season.
On cool weekend mornings, my family and I would grab baskets and walk through the forest near our home. Under the fallen leaves we’d find slender, trumpet-shaped yellow chanterelles, so subtly flavored; meaty porcini, with plump, elongated, spongy caps; delicate parasols, which look just like their name; and even big portobellos, the mushroom world’s closest equivalent to a steak.
My mother would work her magic with the mushrooms. She made rich soups. She sauteed them and tossed them with pasta or the Austrian dumplings called spatzle. And, of course, she included them in all kinds of delicious stews. Probably my favorite was jaeger schnitzel, literally “huntsman’s pieces of meat,” a stew inspired by the fact that autumn was the season not only for mushrooms but also game. Though the stew was traditionally made with venison, more often my mom used beef, as in the recipe here, or boneless leg of veal.
I hope you’ll try this recipe for a special dinner on a cool fall evening. And you don’t have to go foraging for the mushrooms. In fact, if you have even the slight-est urge to hunt for mushrooms, I urge you to consult with experts both before and after the hunt, to make sure that there isn’t even the slightest chance that the mushrooms you find aren’t safe.
Nowadays, it’s easy to find great mushrooms in the super-market or farmers market. Wild varieties such as chanterelles, porcini and portobellos are now cultivated. You also can find other flavorful types such as Asian shiitake or oyster mushrooms that will work well in this recipe. For that matter, so do cultivated “button” mushrooms.
Whatever mush-rooms you use, look for good, firm specimens without any moist spots or signs of mold or insects. At home, refrigerate them loosely wrapped in the vegetable bin and use within a day or so. Clean and trim them just before use.
Since most mushrooms soak up water like a sponge, a wipe with a dampened cloth or paper towel will suffice; stubborn dirt can also be removed with a soft kitchen brush.
When cooking mushrooms, high heat is the key to success, browning their surfaces and concentrating their flavors without drawing out too much moisture. As you’ll see in the recipe, I prepare them close to the end, adding them almost as a garnish, which only highlights their rich autumnal flavor in the finished dish.
Huntsman-style beef with wild mushrooms
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 21/2 hours
Yield: 6 servings
1 1/4 pounds boneless beef tri-tip or shoulder, cut into 1/2 -inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 medium onion, finely diced
2 small carrots, diced
1 rib celery, diced
1 each, tied together with string: sprig thyme, sprig parsley, bay leaf
2 cups dry red wine
1 cup beef broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 slices bacon, cut into 1/4 -inch strips
9 pearl onions, boiled 30 seconds, rinsed, peeled
2 cups wild mushrooms, cut into
1/4 -inch slices
Mashed potatoes or boiled egg noodles, optional
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1. Season the beef with salt and pepper to taste. Spread flour on a plate. Roll the beef cubes in flour, a few pieces at a time, shaking off excess flour; transfer cubes to another plate or bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over high heat. Add the meat; brown in batches on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon; set aside.
2. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, carrots, celery and tied herbs. Cook, stirring often, until lightly colored, about 5 minutes. Stir in the wine, scraping bottom of pan with a wooden spoon. Cook until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add 3/4 cup of the broth; return the beef to the pan. Partially cover the pan; reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook until the beef is tender, about 1 1/2 hours, adding more broth if necessary. Transfer the meat to a plate with a slotted spoon; cover to keep warm. Set a fine-meshed strainer over a heat-proof bowl; pour the sauce through; discard vegetables and herbs. Return the strained sauce to the pan; set pan aside.
3. Heat remaining oil and butter in another skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bacon; cook until lightly browned, 5 minutes. Add the onions and mushrooms; cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir the bacon, onions, mush-rooms and beef into the sauce. Cook over medium heat until heated, about 20 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings. Spoon the meat, vegetables and sauce over mashed potatoes or boiled noodles; garnish with parsley.
Nutrition information per serving:
273 calories, 57% of calories from fat, 17 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 69 mg cholesterol, 6 g carbohydrates, 22.5 g protein, 518 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
