(2 forks)
2233 W. Howard St.
773-262-6603
Hours: 8 a.m.-midnight Sun.-Thurs., 8 a.m.-1 a.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
This family-owned business has been a Rogers Park favorite for more than half a century, long enough to keep several generations filing in for tasty fried seafood. Old-fashioned signs topping the entrance and the retro decor are reminders of a time before takeout options were dominated by flashy franchises. And though franchises may have sprung up around this spot, they haven’t dimmed The Fish Keg’s lights. A rich diversity of customers shop here for takeout meals, as well as for fresh seafood for cooking at home.
On the plate
Fried seafood such as cod, whitefish, scrod, trout, catfish, oysters, walleye and lake perch–as well as fried chicken–star on the menu. Orders packed in 1/2-pound or 1-pound portions) arrive piping hot from the kitchen in brown paper bags. Fried chicken wings and hand-cut nuggets are available by the pound. A four-piece chicken dinner includes a leg, wing, breast and thigh. Expect to pay extra for side dishes and condiments, but not too much: Tiny containers of tartar, barbecue, cocktail or hot sauces cost 29 cents. Three baked fish entrees (Cajun salmon, lemon pepper whitefish and ginger teriyaki salmon) also are available, with vegetables, and packed in microwaveable containers ready for reheating at home.
At your service
Prompt and courteous, the friendly counter staff answered questions and made changes to our order with a smile.
Second helpings
The New England-style clam chowder is creamy, rich and prepared with tender clams. Fried shrimp and hush puppies are particularly tender and delicious under heavy breading. Fried clam strips offer a pleasant retro-flavor reminder of chain restaurants’ all-you-can-eat buffets. Tasty cocktail shrimp also are available from the fresh food case along with a good selection of other fresh seafood. Don’t miss the luscious homemade brownies wrapped in plastic at the counter.
Take a pass
The verdict was mixed on the deep-fried salmon, with naysayers declaring the long strips “too dry,” outweighing those who found it flavorful and unusual. Fish cakes could use a flavor boost.
Thirst quenchers
Canned soda and juice are stocked in a refrigerated case near the front door.
Extras
The shop’s shelves hold specialty items gathered from years of customer requests and business relationships. Items include several varieties of Swedish Lakerol candy (a hard-to-find import) and Jamaican Pickapeppa sauce.
Price range
Appetizers, $2.50; salads, 59 cents-$2.50; main courses, $6-$13 per pound; side dishes, 89 cents-$4; desserts, $1-$3; drinks, 75 cents-$2.40.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The Tribune pays for the meals.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
