Years ago, my family stopped being nuclear and evolved into an extended, eclectic family of friends. My Thanksgiving dinners have evolved, too, from the traditional menu of my childhood to the wondrous offerings of many cooks who come together yearly, each bringing a different dish, to form a collective feast.
In this way Thanksgiving has become the ultimate potluck dinner, a fabulous array of the “best of” each cook. The overused phrase “new traditions” is all too apt. We enjoy innovations of the traditional themes–stuffing, cranberry sauce, side dishes, pies–that seem to embody the originality and generosity of the makers.
Over the years, I’ve found myself making delicious purees using the season’s produce: chestnuts, winter squashes and root vegetables like celery root and turnips: appealing plays on the classic Thanksgiving mashed potatoes. Their velvety texture and rich, spicy flavors seem to unify the other elements of the feast.
These purees are also unexpectedly virtuous, requiring minimal enrichment with cream or butter due to their naturally creamy textures (and a few tricks I use to enhance them). Turkey has never been in such good company.
Throughout the cooler months, these purees are also surprising accompaniments to simple roasted meats and poultry such as pork, lamb, venison and chicken, and game birds like duck and quail. All can be doubled or tripled to serve more, and can be made up to two days in advance. Reheat them in a double boiler, adding a little chicken broth, water or cream to thin them if necessary.
Spiced winter squash puree with roasted garlic
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Cooling time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This fragrant puree makes a delicious departure from the usual sweet potato and pumpkin side dishes. The puree is delicious as is, or flavored with exotic spice mixtures such as garam masala or the Tunisian spice mix below.
2 1/2 pounds winter squash, such as butternut
1/2 teaspoon olive oil
1 head garlic
1 tablespoon unsalted butter or 2 tablespoons whipping cream
3/4 teaspoon salt
Tunisian spice mix, optional, see recipe
1 to 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the squash in half; scoop out the seeds. Brush lightly with olive oil; place cut-side-down on a baking sheet. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of water onto the pan. Pull the loose, papery skin off the garlic, keeping the head intact; wrap it in foil. Place the baking sheet and the foil packet in the oven; bake until the squash is very tender and the garlic gives when the package is pressed, 40-50 minutes. Set aside until cool enough to handle, about 20 minutes.
2. Scoop the flesh out of the squash into the bowl of a food processor. Separate the garlic cloves; squeeze the soft pulp into the work bowl. Process the mixture to a fine puree; add the butter and salt to taste. Mix well. Stir in half of the Tunisian spice mix; add more spice and fresh lemon juice if desired.
Tunisian spice mix: Combine in a small bowl 1 teaspoon each ground coriander and sweet paprika, 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin seed, 1/4 teaspoon ground caraway seed and a pinch of ground red pepper.
Nutrition information per serving:
140 calories, 21% of calories from fat, 4 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 7 mg cholesterol, 28 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 448 mg sodium, 7 g fiber
Celery root and apple puree
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Cooking watery or fibrous root vegetables like celery roots, turnips, carrots, rutabagas and beets with a little white rice before pureeing them ensures they will be exceptionally creamy. The apples enhance and sweeten the vegetables.
1 pound celery root, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks
3 cups 2 percent or whole milk
3/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 1/2 tablespoons white rice
2 small Macintosh apples, peeled, cored, quartered, or 1 small ripe pear, peeled, quartered, cored
2 to 3 teaspoons butter
1. Place the celery root in a medium saucepan; add the milk, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and a grinding or two of pepper. Heat to a boil over moderate heat. Stir in the rice. Reduce heat to a simmer; partially cover. Cook 10 minutes. Add the apples; cook until the celery root is very tender, 10 minutes. (The milk will curdle, but the curds will be incorporated when the celery root is pureed.) Drain the mixture in a colander set over a bowl; reserve the cooking liquid.
2. Transfer the celery root mixture to a food processor; puree 1 or 2 minutes, until perfectly smooth, adding a tablespoon or two of cooking liquid if necessary. (Save the remaining flavorful liquid for soup; it can be frozen.) Season with salt and pepper. Add the butter; process to blend.
Nutrition information per serving:
208 calories, 24% of calories from fat, 6 g fat, 3.5 g saturated fat, 19 mg cholesterol, 32 g carbohydrates, 8 g protein, 638 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
