(2 forks)
2143 S. Archer Ave.
312-328-0228
Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight. Mon.-Thurs.; 9:30 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sun.
Cards: M,V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: Yes
First impressions
Although the menu emphasis at Mandarin Kitchen changed drastically earlier this year from hot pot to Shanghai-style dishes, not much has changed about its physical layout. In the entrance, you’ll find a seafood tank and a small bar that opens into a 15-table dining room. Walls sport Chinese art and daily specials, some in Chinese only.
On the plate
The huge menu offers more than 500 dishes of cold and hot appetizers, dim sum, noodle numbers and various entrees. The dishes range from egg rolls to fish stomach over rice.
At your service
Our server was friendly but not particularly helpful when we asked her to recommend some house specialties. Even if water and tea refills were slow coming, she was really nice about a hungry, demanding 5-year-old who wanted “plain white rice, now.”
Second helpings
We adored the tiny “scallion pancakes rolled with beef” even if these sandwiches of sesame-robed steamed buns, barbecued beef, cilantro and green onions were not much like their description. We also enjoyed the radish sou-bing with pork, a shredded daikon sandwich studded with tiny bits of barbecued pork. Cold shredded crunchy jellyfish offered a nice palate cleanser with a sesame finish. Pork intestines homestyle, arriving in a hot cauldron, became a megahit around the table–even among non-intestine fans. It helped that the tender intestines were served with a lush gingery gravy and with the foil of pickled vegetables. The sliced fish fillet with rice vinegar sauce delivered loads of tasty bass fillet morsels in a pleasingly piquant sauce. The ham hocks with brown sauce was magnificent. The meat became buttery soft with a gentle current of sweetness and anise running through it. For dessert, try warm, rib-sticking mashed taro with red bean paste and sticky sweet rice filled with red bean paste.
Take a pass
The evening’s biggest disappointment arrived in the Shanghai soup dumplings–here called “steamed pork buns.” The meat bore a weird tanginess while the bland broth inside the buns lacked the porky richness that we have come to expect from these juicy treats. Crystal shrimp was beautifully presented in fanned out concentric circles of cucumber and shrimp, but the crustaceans were mealy.
Drinks
BYO permitted with no corkage fee. Soda and free tea also served.
Extras
For dinner, choose any three dishes from a special menu for $22.95 and pay $6.95 for each additional dish. During winter, hot pot will be served for $3.50 per person and $1.50-$3.50 per dipping item.
Price range
Appetizers and dim sum, $1.25-$6; noodle and rice cake specialties, $4.50-$8; entrees, $4.25-$20; desserts $6; drinks $1.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The Tribune pays for the meals.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks; very good; 1 fork, good
