(1 fork)
12 E. Cedar St.
312-944-5006
Hours: 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 7 a.m.-6 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: Yes
First impressions
This no-frills deli, which has been in the same Gold Coast location for 30 years, is mostly a carryout kind of place–a slew of construction workers and dog-walking patrons stopped in during our two visits. But it does offer a half dozen tables (whose tops are emblazoned with big photos of bagels) for those wanting to stay for a quick nosh. Consult the chalkboards listing the many offerings, place your order at the counter and grab a soft drink or juice from the refrigerator case. Soon enough, your order (think paper plates, foam cups and plastic utensils) will appear.
On the plate
Ashkenaz’s menu touts its “Just Like Home” Jewish-style meals and trays. That means you’ll find standbys like nova lox, smoked chubs, herring, corned beef, pastrami, turkey breast, kishke, blintzes, chopped liver, chicken soup (with matzo balls, kreplach or noodles) and a wide variety of side salads.
At your service
The guys behind the counter are all business. Don’t expect much hand-holding or chitchat.
Second helpings
Think hearty, not light. Homemade split pea and sweet/sour cabbage soups were terrific. We also liked the potato knish (chunks of perfectly cooked potatoes and onions stuffed into a ball of puff pastry dough) and the oniony potato pancakes. A lean corned beef sandwich (choose regular or overstuffed) is also a sure bet, and the half-sandwich with soup and a large side salad is a deal at $7. For dessert, try the noodle pudding, with its dense layers of noodles mixed with apples, raisins and cinnamon, all topped by a sprinkling of cornflakes, or the raisin-nut rugelach.
Take a pass
The cheese blintzes we ordered for takeout became greasy when heated, and, like the potato pancake, came with no accompaniments. Potato salad and coleslaw were ho-hum (they’re not made on premises). The “overstuffed” pastrami wasn’t all that huge.
Thirst quenchers
You’ll find a variety of sodas (including a bunch from Dr. Brown’s); bottled juices and water; and coffee and tea.
Extras
Ashkenaz has a large catering menu that includes fish, veggie and breakfast trays. It can ship food anywhere in the country.
Price range
Soups, $2.15-$4; sandwiches, $3.50-$8.75; salads and sides, $3-$8.50 per pound; fish and meat platters, $8-$16.50; desserts, $1-$2.50; drinks, 95 cents to $1.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The Tribune pays for the meals.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks; very good; 1 fork, good
