(3 forks)
3042 N. Broadway
773-472-9040
Hours: 6 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
Cards: A, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: No, but coming soon
First impressions
Hugging the bustling intersection of Barry and Broadway, this Lakeview icon (since 1962) offers old-school charm in sparkling-clean surroundings. Young, old and in-between, diners symbolize a neighborhood cross-section. Formerly the Lakefront Diner, it was recently renamed to honor the owners’ mother.
On the plate
The menu includes all-day breakfasts and standard diner fare. Recent menu introductions include a grilled pesto turkey sandwich, a chicken-and-apple sausage sandwich on a toasted baguette and an Asian chicken salad. A chicken dish prepared with crumbled Greek cheese and herbs is billed as “Feta Up Chicken.”
At your service
The spirit of Greek family hospitality flows from the top down, as three generations of the Mavraganes family (headed by matriarch and patriarch Stella and James) welcome guests. Genuine warmth trickles down through the staff, as evidenced by all-around greetings as a “regular” during my second visit to the diner. A booth near the register offered prime viewing to observe special treatment for everyone entering the diner. Rules are even printed on the menu: Smile; be courteous; have fun.
Second helpings
Terrific burgers come with choice of tender hand-cut fries, tasty Cajun rice, a fruit cup or a satisfying serving of macaroni and cheese. Apples and raisins add a fruity complement to the generous blue cheese and pecan salad. Light, fresh and perfectly seasoned egg salad on rye (order your choice of bread) stacks up with the best. And Tabasco onion rings (really strings) offer a guilty, don’t-miss-it pleasure for those who enjoy a piquant indulgence.
Take a pass
Crab cakes, a new menu item, were over-breaded and way too crunchy. Herbs dominating the flavors in the French onion soup were distracting.
Drinks
Juice, sodas, lemonade, iced tea, coffee and a selection of herbal teas. Thick shakes come in tried and true flavors as well as fresh takes. One blends vanilla ice cream peanut butter, bananas, whipped cream and chocolate syrup. Another swirls ice cream and whipped cream with cookies, candy or a brownie. And make no mistake, the shake labeled South Beach has nothing to do with weight loss. The blend of orange soda, orange sherbet, vanilla ice cream and whipped cream is described on the menu as “a ride down Ocean Drive on the back of a motorcycle.”
Extras
Neighborhood delivery is in the works. Until then, everything can be ordered for takeout.
Price range
Soups and salads, $1.95-$8.95; sandwiches, $4.95-$9.25; entrees (including soup or salad), $7.95-$11.95; breakfasts, $2.70-$10.95; drinks, $1.50-$3.95; desserts, $2.75-$3.95.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The Tribune pays for the meals.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
