(two forks)
729 E. North Ave., Glendale Heights
630-942-9900
schnitzelplatz.com
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun., Mon., Wed., Thurs.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: A, DC, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: No
First impressions
If it weren’t for the cuckoo clocks, the Teutonic dolls and the deer head that adorn the walls, this large, brightly lit, 30-table room would feel a lot like a pancake house. But when the lederhosen-clad duo, “Bob and Hank,” crank up the bass and accordion each weekend, the atmosphere feels much more middle European than Midwestern. As you enter, you’ll find a small bar with cafe tables to the left and the big room to the right.
On the plate
Traditional German specialties including 21 appetizers, 14 types of schnitzel and assorted sausages as well as some Continental dishes and surf ‘n’ turf. Although most of the dinner entrees break the Cheap Eats $13 ceiling by a few bucks, they are all served with soup or salad, dumplings or potatoes and braised cabbage or vegetables, making them a bargain. For dessert, a wide selection of cake slices is brought to the table, including the Bavarian apple cake with large pieces of still nicely firm apple in a custard soft cake.
At your service
The staff is friendly, knowledgeable and prompt. Servers are very helpful at finding something from among their imported beers to suit your palate.
Second helpings
I couldn’t stop stealing bites from my son’s crisp, flavorful kid-sized pork “kinder schnitzel,” which was almost better than my tasty, though slightly greasy, classic Wiener schnitzel (veal cutlet). Nice touches include the elegantly carved lemon wedges, savory stuffing ball (here called a dumpling) and tangy braised red cabbage. We also liked the clean snap of the mildly spiced, skinny frankfurters on the kid-sized frankfurter plate and the house salad plate that started the meal with its quartet of tangy marinated vegetables: beets, cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes.
Take a pass
Although the schweine braten was fine when you bathed it in gravy, the plain meat was pretty dry and flavorless. The sauerkraut on the plate also was a tad too sour for our taste.
Drinks
The usual soft drinks along with a full bar, gluwein (mulled wine), lots of imported bottled beer and the following beers on tap: Spatenbrau, Weihenstephan, Lowenbrau and BBK.
Extras
Each meal starts with a basket of fresh rye and hot, satisfying pretzel breads that marry perfectly with big cold steins of beer. Also, there’s oompah music on weekends.
Price range
Soups and appetizers $2.50-$11; schnitzels, $14-$18; other entrees, $14-$19; desserts, $4; soft drinks, $1.25-$5.50; beer, $3.50-$9 for full liter.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The Tribune pays for the meals.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks; very good; 1 fork, good
