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Chicago Tribune
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Getting your Trinity Audio player ready...

(3 forks)

2343 E. 71st St.

773-363-0393

Hours: 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Tues.-Thurs; 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday

Credit cards: M,V

Noise factor: Conversation friendly

Delivery: Yes

First impressions

Steps from a Metra station and sprinting distance from the South Shore Cultural Center, this busy corner has been transformed recently from a neighborhood coffee shop to a business combining a bustling takeout section with a cozy full-service restaurant. Sit back and relax. The room is tastefully appointed with Afro-centric prints and sculptures, and the sound system is set for jazz.

On the plate

Expect cooking like Mom used to make. That is, if your mother was the best cook in the neighborhood and you had the benefit of growing up on old-fashioned scratch-cooking on Chicago’s South Side like the owners did. Breakfast runs the gamut from grab-and-go sandwiches on toast or biscuits to “name your own” omelets. Lunch includes entree salads and sandwiches, including two poor-boys (“po’boys” here) composed on long garlic rolls. Lunch specials and supper plates change daily and include side dishes and beverages.

At your service

Everyone on staff seems to go out of his or her way to be friendly and welcoming.

Second helpings

If you’re in the mood for fries, place an order the moment you’re seated. The hand-cut beauties are well worth the menu-advertised 15-minute wait. At our table, a connoisseur rated the chicken-salad sandwich as “inspired” and the mustard-tinged potato salad “among the best” she’d had in years. Chicken fingers and salmon croquettes (in a sandwich as well as topping a salad) earned oohs and aahs from my dining companions. So did the incredibly light coating (which someone described as having ethereal qualities) on the fried chicken. Best information we could pry out of our server is that the “family secret” involves twice-dipping skinless chicken. Joyce’s heavenly poundcake lived up to its name, and the cheesecake was just as good.

Take a pass

The fish on the tilapia sandwich recommended by our server was dry and overly seasoned.

Thirst quenchers

Homemade sweet and flavored iced tea and lemonade come with free refills. Along with the usual soda, coffee, etc., other beverages include milkshakes and root beer floats.

Extras:

Fish fry every Friday, soul food Sunday brunch and live jazz the first Friday every month. Also, whole pies and cakes are available with 24-hour notice.

Price range

Breakfast sandwiches and plates, $1-$8.25; appetizers, $5.50-$6.25; salad and sandwiches, $3.75-$7.25; main courses, $8-$11; side dishes, 65 cents-$3; desserts, $1.25-$3.50.

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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The Tribune pays for the meals.

Ratings key:

4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks; very good; 1 fork, good