The conceit of wearing clothes that might have been rescued from an old aunt’s attic or inspired by a 1950s movie star’s picture in Photoplay magazine is finally giving way to fresher ideas for fall.
Designers went in so many directions for Fashion Week’s recent runway shows, no shopper should walk away feeling robbed.
For starters, sleek, modern tailoring came from Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez and Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa, who has found his metier in the daunting task of replacing Mr. Klein.
Several designers, including Oscar de La Renta, took flight to Russia for inspiration.
Marc Jacobs moved on from 1920s and ’50s reinventions for a controversial collection. (His poufy skirts were called everything from unwearable to visionary.)
Nevertheless, no need for alarm among vintage lovers. Old is the new young as fashion’s conservatism–mirroring the Zeitgeist–finds elegant expression in styles by Tracy Reese, Carolina Herrera, Zac Posen and Luca Luca.
On the other hand, liberal thinkers who like the idea of no clear separation between day and night will look to glamorous day clothes from Monique Lhuillier (Britney Spears’ wedding dress designer), newcomer Derek Lam’s exquisite styles and J. Lo’s new line Sweetface.
Much was made of Jennifer Lopez’s show ending Fashion Week. Ultimately, the timing was cruel. The show followed Chado Ralph Rucci, which is a little like sipping a glass of Cristal before downing a cup of Andre Cold Duck.
The workmanship at Rucci–the only American doing haute couture in Paris–often borders on breathtaking, and for the first time he showed some couture in America.
The juxtaposition did not help Lopez’s crusade for fashion credibility. Purists praised the spectacle taped for MTV, but commented on poor quality and lack of originality in the clothes. Indeed, J.Lo was still showing ponchos.




