(3 forks)
1102 W. Webster Ave., Chicago
773-435-3136
Hours: Kitchen hours 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat., noon-9 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: No
First impressions
At the corner of Webster and Seminary near DePaul University, in an unassuming Lincoln Park storefront, is The Local Option. Its facade is humble; its decor minimal. Wood floors, high ceilings and a lovely wood bar look like original fittings. The Option is precisely the kind of Chicago neighborhood tavern that has become an endangered species. One or all of the several televisions are tuned to sports. Sometimes, when the game is hot, the noise level rises past comfort. The front room, with the bar, features benches and chairs, tables and high tables; the back room, non-smoking, features tables and chairs. Boxes by the door hold recent issues of various magazines and newspapers. Patrons range from barely-legal college students to graying men in work coveralls.
On the plate
Inside, you’ll find not the usual fried cheese sticks and other bar food, but a creative and ingenious menu inspired by the legendary culinary style of New Orleans. The emphasis here is on seafood, and the kitchen has a dab hand with it. A few perfectly prepared seafood items show up in po’boys, salads, appetizers, sandwiches and so forth. Two crab dishes are the only menu items that go over our $13 limit.
At your service
Well, don’t come here when time is short. Service is friendly, capable and knowledgeable, but not always speedy. On one night, one server was responsible for all the tables. Bless her heart (as they say down South), it was a little too much for one person to handle alone.
Second helpings
Anything featuring the fried calamari will be delicious; we liked the appetizer version, but the delicately crisp and toothsome squid also shows up in sandwiches and a salad. Blue crab quesadillas were immensely satisfying; crab cakes ditto. A crisp cornmeal-dredged catfish fillet filled the po’boy roll from end to end. Rare-seared tuna tacos were light yet filling.
Take a pass
Garlic mashed potatoes were heavy and gluey on one visit.
Thirst quenchers
12 beers on tap, 15 bottled; 8 wines; specialty booze drinks; full bar.
Extras
Daily specials, kids’ menu items and weekend brunch.
Price range
Appetizers, $3.95-$14; salads and sandwiches, $8.50-$9.50; main courses, $6.75-$16; side dishes, $1.75-$2.75; desserts, $3-$4.50; drinks, $1-$4.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The Tribune pays for the meals.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
