(two forks)
970 Warren Ave., Downers Grove
630-795-0100
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-8 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-9 p.m. Fri. (On Sat.-Sun.: private events only).
Credit cards: D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
Delivery: No
First impressions
This small storefront looks out on the downtown Downers Grove Metra station, not Paris’ Gare St. Lazare, but it tries its best to evoke a bistro feel, with black wrought-iron cafe tables (topped with little vases of fresh flowers), sponged red walls, a cream- and red-checked floor and wallpaper sprinkled with images of Paris. Table service is offered, but if you want to watch your meal in the making, you can grab a seat at the long counter in back overlooking the kitchen.
On the plate
The defining word here is “rich”; if cream, butter and cheese are not part of your diet plan, you’ll have to stick with the fish, or cheat. There are plenty of familiar French offerings–caramelized onion tart, a croque monsieur sandwich, beef bourguignonne en croute and chicken crepes–but also comfort food staples like macaroni and cheese and chicken pot pie (topped with two puff pastry triangles, not a crust) as well as maple-ginger glazed salmon, a grilled Reuben and a pulled pork barbecue sandwich. Only the strip steak and the snapper exceed the $13 Cheap Eats limit.
At your service
What our young, baseball-cap-clad server lacked in polish he made up for in enthusiasm. He recommended several dishes with zeal, even if they trickled out of the kitchen one by one. The service is indeed casual: After taking our dessert order, we saw him scooting out the door. Other parties, thankfully, covered for him by bringing our chocolate cake and our check.
Second helpings
The coq au riesling crepes, two delicate pancakes stuffed with chicken, shallots and mushrooms in a silky wine sauce, were terrific. We also liked the crispy baked tilapia, which was heaped with a chunky tomato-caper sauce and set on a big pile of sauteed baby spinach. A side of macaroni and cheese was a creamy delight. The soft-center chocolate cake was as lavalike as its name implies and served in a crock alongside a big scoop of vanilla ice cream. The “premium” ice cream, as the menu called it, was really good–and, our server confessed, came from Costco.
Take a pass
The onion tart appetizer was overcooked to the point of mushiness. The Champagne risotto cake, a side that sounded promising, was so rich and salty, we could barely eat it. The blackened Cajun steak sandwich, though tasty enough with its Boursin cheese and grilled onion toppings, was diminutive for the price ($9).
Thirst quenchers
Six wines are offered by the glass or bottle; there also are four bottled beers, iced tea, Perrier and a selection of soft drinks (served in plastic cups).
Extras
The bistro offers a series of cooking classes; it also hosts private parties on weekends.
Price range
Appetizers and soups, $4-$5; sandwiches, $7-$9; entrees, $10-$18; sides, $2; desserts, $5; beverages, 75 cents-$5.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The Tribune pays for the meals.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
