Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.
* = Good
** = Very Good
*** = Excellent
**** = Outstanding
Fork reviews are based on at least one visit by a Tribune staffer.
(1 fork) = Good
(2 forks) = Very Good
(3 forks) = One of the best
(4 forks) = Don’t miss it
Credit card key
A American Express
DC Diners’ Club
DS Discover
M MasterCard
V Visa
NEW = A review added since the last Dining Guide
UPDATE = A restaurant revisited since the last Dining Guide
CLASSIC = A true Chicago institution
Italian
CITY
NEW
AlDente Cafe *
1615 N. Clybourn Ave.
312-587-0055
The food is unadventurous but reliable at this Italian restaurant, which pairs a warm, even homey dining room with a late-night lounge upstairs. Larry Pierce (ex-Green Room) oversees a simple, budget-conscious menu.
Recommended: Scallops with pesto, fish salad, pork chop, tilapia quattro stagione.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $13-$29
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Valet parking
UPDATE
Coco Pazzo ***
300 W. Hubbard St.
312-836-0900
Coco Pazzo’s jazzed-up loft space is as sophisticated looking as it was when the restaurant opened 13 years ago, and the menu is still a reliable repository of rustic Tuscan cuisine. Chef Tony Priolo’s pastas are rich and soul-nurturing, his fish are paragons of perfection via simplicity and the risotto is a fail-safe specialty.
Recommended: Risotto with prawns, veal ravioli, roasted sea bass.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $15-$35
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Valet parking
NEW
Enoteca Piattini (3 forks)
934 W. Webster Ave.
773-935-8466
This corner storefront cafe and wine bar features not-so-small small plates of nicely prepared Italian food and wine “flights.”
Recommended: Caprese salad, gnocchi in vodka-tomato sauce, lobster ravioli, veal saltimbocca.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6-$14
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
Gio’s Cafe & Deli (3 forks)
2724 S. Lowe St.
312-225-6368
You can shop while you await your food at this restaurant, which sits smack dab in the middle of an Italian grocery and deli on a residential block in Bridgeport. The surprisingly big menu is weighted toward hearty favorites; good Italian desserts can be plucked right from the freezer case.
Recommended: Arancini, fried calamari, meat ravioli, baked cavatelli.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $5.95-$14.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; BYOB.
NEW
The Grotto on State **
1030 N. State St.
312-280-1005
A steakhouse in a neighborhood chock-full of them, The Grotto is nevertheless worthy of attention for its good looks, capable waitstaff and the solid cooking of chef Abraham Aguirre, who cranks out the same Italian-American specialties that marked his tenure at the original Giannotti’s and Harry Caray’s. Good steaks and chops and one of the city’s best versions of Chicken Vesuvio are matched by a surprisingly deep dessert selection.
Recommended: Carpaccio, grilled calamari, red snapper oreganato, lamb chops, chocolate-chip cheesecake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $14.95-$33.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; discounted parking (with validation).
Il Vicinato (3 forks)
2435 S. Western Ave.
773-927-5444
A veteran of this old Italian district, Il Vicinato attracts a loyal and far-flung following. Specials are written on chalkboards in the simple, wood-paneled dining room, but there’s plenty worth checking out on the regular menu, too.
Recommended: Meat ravioli, pasta Roger, tiramisu.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $9-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
NEW
Osteria Via Stato **
620 N. State St.
312-642-8450
“Trust the chef” is a common-enough practice in fine-dining circles, but this restaurant introduces the concept at a much lower price level. For about $36, diners select an entree and not much more: Executive chef Rick Tramonto and chef David DiGregorio do the rest, sending out a parade of antipasti, from silken slabs of cured salmon to crisp wood-grilled radicchio with parmesan cheese. These are followed by a pair of pastas before the entree arrives. Desserts and drinks optional; there’s a fine all-Italian wine list offering bottles, quartinos (250 ml) and several fixed-price “Just Bring Me Wine” options.
Recommended: Beef shortribs, polpettone, chicken Mario.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Prices: Dinner $35.95, lunch $17.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
RoSal’s **
1154 W. Taylor St.
312-243-2357
The dining room is old-fashioned enough to serve as a movie set and the menu sticks to the tried and true, but when you’re in the mood for family-style Italian food, RoSal’s fits the bill perfectly. Check out the monthly “Big Night” dinners, when the kitchen re-creates the 10-course menu from the cult film.
Recommended: Eggplant rotolo, Joe baccala, chicken piccata, veal marsala, tiramisu.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $11-$27
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Valet parking; no smoking.
Spiaggia ****
980 N. Michigan Ave.
312-280-2750
World-class in virtually every respect, Spiaggia reigns as Chicago’s finest Italian restaurant. Chef Tony Mantuano oversees a menu that’s true to Italian simplicity but dazzles diners with outstanding ingredients and flawless preparation. Precise, professional service is extremely personable, and Henry Bishop’s literate and vast wine list could keep a wine-lover busy for hours. The tiered, platinum-and-white dining room is magnificent.
Recommended: Pancetta-wrapped rabbit, swordfish carpaccio, potato gnocchi, baba all’arancia.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $29-$40
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; jacket required; no smoking in dining room.
312 Chicago **
Hotel Allegro
136 N. LaSalle St.
312-696-2420
An ideal pre-theater destination, this comfortable hotel property sits within steps (or a short stroll) from three Loop theaters. What was once an Italian-accented American menu by Dean Zanella is now much more assertively Italian — and considerably improved in the process.
Recommended: Gnocchi with rabbit, pheasant with goat cheese and polenta, halibut in tomato broth.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., breakfast Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $12.95-$23.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Tre Via **
1575 N. Milwaukee Ave.
773-227-7990
Reasonably priced, laid back and modest to a fault, this Wicker Park gem is a real find. The kitchen produces unfussy food that emphasizes clean flavors, served in a dining room more stylish and comfortable (the attractive bar is a highlight) than you’d expect at this price level. The wine list (more than two dozen bottles under $30) is particularly appealing.
Recommended: Tre Via pizza, mussels, oven-roasted salmon, prosciutto-wrapped pork.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $12-$22
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Vivere ***
71 W. Monroe St.
312-332-4040
Chef Drue Kennedy puts interesting spins on many of his dishes at this veteran Loop restaurant, at the same time respecting his food’s culinary roots. The result is a menu with delights for traditionalists and adventurers alike; add to that silky smooth service and one of the city’s great wine lists.
Recommended: Lobster gnocchi, duck breast with duck-sausage ravioli, lamb loins with tomato-horseradish sauce.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $13.95-$32.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
NORTH
Carlucci Lincolnshire **
250 Marriott Dr.
Lincolnshire
847-478-0990
Joe Carlucci’s first Lake County foray has been almost too successful; so many people want to dine here on weekends they sometimes overwhelm capacity, even though the place seats 300. A few bites of Luigi Negroni’s food and you’ll understand why.
Recommended: Steamed mussels, pork in sun-dried cherry sauce, linguine, tiramisu.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $16.95-$29.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking Fri., Sat.; smoking in bar only.
FIO **
566 Chesnut St.
Winnetka, 847-441-4600
A French-American spot that still makes room on the menu for quesadillas and fried calamari, FIO mixes old-fashioned charm with contemporary touches, both in decor and cuisine. The inside joke is that the name is an acronym for “fork it over,” but with food this capable, you probably won’t mind.
Recommended: Mushroom gnocchi, calamari, venison tenderloin, cioppino.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$30
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; parking lot.
Va Pensiero ***
1566 Oak Ave.
Evanston, 847-475-7779
One of the finest Italian restaurants in the area. Food is superb, the all-Italian wine list is stellar, and eagle-eyed waiters anticipate every need. The dining rooms are lovely, and don’t forget the brick patio in summer.
Recommended: Shrimp over risotto-onion cake and pistachio pesto, brodetto (shellfish in a zesty broth), chocolate budino, chocolate hazelnut torte.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $22-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
WEST
Carlucci ***
1801 Butterfield Rd.
Downers Grove
630-512-0990
A bit of Tuscany in the middle of DuPage County thanks to eye-catching design elements (walled flagstone courtyard, curved dining space awash in terra cotta and green hues) and rustic cooking.
Recommended: Scallops with guanciale, grappa-cured salmon tartare, butternut-squash mezzaluna, Tuscan seafood stew, zucchini cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $9.95-$27.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.
Jim & Pete’s (3 forks)
7806 W. North Ave.
Elmwood Park, 708-453-5204
Jim & Pete’s has been around since 1941, originally in Chicago and later in Elmwood Park. You’ll find a cozy elegance here, enhanced by exposed brick walls, and good Italian fare. Expect a wait at peak dining hours.
Recommended: Bruschetta with tomato and basil, antipasto salad, thin-crust pepperoni pizza, spinach pizza, spinach lasagna.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $8-$15
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
La Piazza ***
1410 Circle Ave.
Forest Park, 708-366-4010
Gaetano Di Benedetto has earned plaudits at several high-profile Chicago Italian restaurants, and his food is just as good at this low-key spot just west of the city. In a room tricked out to resemble an outdoor square, Di Benedetto churns out excellent dishes notable for their hefty size and luxurious ingredients — no shortage of cream in this kitchen. The $50, four-course chef’s menu is a good value.
Recommended: Stracetti, stuffed calamari, red snapper with banana-curry sauce, ravioli alla Norcina, gelati.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $12-$24
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Lucca’s Ristorante & Pizzeria (4 forks)
108 W. Burlington Ave.
La Grange, 708-354-9990
This charming, diminutive storefront trattoria serves creative Italian dishes, including thin and thick pizzas.
Recommended: Gnocchi in marinara sauce, meatball sandwich, grilled vegetable pizza, margarita pizza.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.
Entree prices: $6.75-$14.45
Credit cards: M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
The Pasta Shoppe & Cafe (4 forks)
116 N. Oak Park Ave.
Oak Park, 708-763-0600
Polished hardwood floors, smooth wooden tabletops, colorful ceramic plates and rustic photographs enhance an excellent menu of oh-so-fresh Italian pastas, sandwiches and salads.
Recommended: Arancini, meat-filled tortellini in cream sauce, veal- and spinach-stuffed cannelloni, four-cheese lasagna.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9.95-$17.95 Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
NEW
Za Za’s Trattoria **
441 W. Ogden Ave.
Clarendon Hills
630-920-0500
The youngest of the four west-suburban Za Za restaurants is much like its predecessors, offering homey, modestly priced Italian dishes off a single-sheet menu. This particular outpost is distinguished by cozy surroundings, very friendly service and the cooking of chef Sergio Lopez, who is adept at the basics and also manages a pleasant surprise or two.
Recommended: Seared scallops, carpaccio, mahi-mahi carciofi, raspberry chocolate mousse cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $10.95-$19.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible
SOUTH
NEW
Capri *
12307 S. Harlem Ave.
Palos Heights
708-671-1657
Big portions of well-made Italian classics are the hallmarks of this neighborhood spot, a direct descendant of the original Capri (long gone) in Berwyn. Brawny appetizers alert diners to pace themselves; entrees include soup or salad and the desserts are hefty as well.
Recommended: Calamari Capri, steamed mussels, linguini carbonara, pollo Francese Kelsey’s Way (just ask), tiramisu.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $9.95-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.
Japanese
CITY
Bob San **
1805 W. Division St.
773-235-8888
An urban-looking restaurant with exposed rafters and stainless-steel accents. Sushi is a big part of the menu, though there is a substantial list of light entrees. The kitchen stays open late, a bonus for nightcrawlers.
Recommended: Gyoza, octopus salad, mother-and-child sashimi, Bob San handroll.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $13.95-$18.95
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
NEW
Hama Matsu *
5143 N. Clark St.
773-506-2978
A light and airy 40-seater whose Japanese offerings are augmented by Korean dishes, which take up 25 percent of the menu and greatly increase one’s spicy-food options. Most customers order sushi, enough so that the bar gets backed up on busy nights; ordering an appetizer or two is a good strategy, especially if you’re hungry.
Recommended: Kalbi, gyoza, tsunami roll, seafood bi bim bap.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $10.95-$24.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; BYOB.
Heat ***
1507 N. Sedgwick St.
312-397-9818
An ultra-modern and compact dining room is the setting for artful and imaginative sushi and sashimi presentations, including an 11-course chef’s choice menu ($100) for the adventurous. Prices can soar, but the fish here is so fresh that some if it is (literally) still squirming.
Recommended: Spicy tuna roll, sake-marinated salmon.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Prices: Prix-fixe, $45-$60
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.
NEW
Kaze **
2032 W. Roscoe St.
773-327-4860
What distinguishes this inviting 40-seat sushi spot from its myriad competitors is its specialty nigiri sushi, which are dressed with complementary sauces and toppings (banana peppers and black pepper with hamachi, enoki mushrooms and truffle oil with salmon), freeing diners from the tired old wasabi-soy dunk. Those, along with similarly conceived sashimi specials and well-executed traditional Japanese cooked items, are your best bets.
Recommended: Bluefin tuna nigiri, tuna loin sashimi, octopus sashimi, seafood hot pot.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $13-$15
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Mirai ***
2020 W. Division St.
773-862-8500
Unimpeachably fresh seafood, imaginative preparations and charming atmosphere make this arguably the best sushi restaurant in town, though the menu offers more than just sushi and sashimi. The upstairs bar is a popular hangout for younger patrons.
Recommended: Monkfish pate, horse mackerel sashimi, otoro tuna sushi, tuna steak, green tea ice cream.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $18-$21
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.
Oysy **
888 S. Michigan Ave.
312-922-1127
Japanese tapas? That’s the basic idea behind this South-Loop spot, which features nibble-sized portions of sushi, sashimi and cooked dishes–and actually offers more cooked items than raw. The kitchen can be slow at times; it’s best to order a handful of dishes at once. A second Oysy recently opened in River North.
Recommended: Toro tartare, grilled eel, lotus root tempura, firecracker maki.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Prices: $4-$14
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Starfish **
804 W. Randolph St.
312-997-2433
The electric-celadon walls and orange-red ceiling seem an appropriate backdrop to this colorful, sometimes flashy Japanese restaurant, which augments its creative sushi dishes with a handful of cooked appetizers and entrees; a good-sized sake list is a plus.
Recommended: White tuna tartare, Dynamite in shell, black dragon maki, phyllo-wrapped salmon, chirashi.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14-$22
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
Sunshine Cafe (3 forks)
5449 N. Clark St., 773-334-6214
Don’t be put off by the kitschy plastic entrees on display in the window and the slightly shabby dining room–what this family-friendly Japanese BYOB lacks in style it makes up for in tasty, cheap Asian comfort food. Servers dodge scampering kids to deliver shrimp dumplings, steaming bowls of soup and a variety of sizzling stir-fries.
Recommended: Dobo, udon soup, tonkatsu.
Open: Dinner, lunch Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6-$14
Credit cards: DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 7 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: No smoking
NEW
Tsuki ***
1441 W. Fullerton Ave.
773-883-8722
The owners of tiny Ringo sushi bar are the principals of this spacious, contemporary restaurant, done in cobalt-blue tones and industrial-chic decor. The impressively large menu offers small-portion dishes in a tapas-like format; everything’s downsized and inexpensive. There are more sashimi dishes than most restaurants attempt, and plenty of hot plates as well. When in doubt, put yourself in chef Toyoji Hemmi’s hands for a $40 to $50 menu tasting.
Recommended: Volcano sushi, aji sashimi, hirame carpaccio, Chaliapin steak.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Prices: $4.50-$11.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
NORTHWEST
Maki Sushi **
12 S. Northwest Hwy.
Park Ridge, 847-318-1920
You don’t see Art Deco accents in sushi bars often, but as this space is part of the historic Pickwick Theatre building, it fits. A U-shaped sushi bar is centered in the dining room, surrounded by freestanding tables. The compact menu isn’t particularly adventurous, better suited to neophytes than true aficionados. Friendly atmosphere, pretty lacquered chopsticks and a well-thought-out wine list are pluses.
Recommended: Park Ridge maki, rainbow maki, Peachy maki, Japanese cherry tart.
Open: Dinner Mon-Sat.
Entree prices: $10-$19
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
SOUTH
House of Kobe (3 forks)
1951 Wicker Blvd.
Schererville, Ind.
219-322-1919
House of Kobe offers rowdy teppan-yaki dining as well as a large variety of pristinely fresh sushi and sashimi. It’s also lots of fun for the kids, making it a great spot for family dining.
Recommended: Alaskan red salmon steak, stir-fried steak, sushi assortment, saki skin-maki.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9.95-$35
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Required on weekends
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Korean
CITY
Jin Ju **
5203 N. Clark St.
773-334-6377
Co-owner Peter Mah spun a college business-plan assignment into this user-friendly Korean restaurant, boasting well-organized menus and highly professional service to go with the authentic, prettily presented food. A short, modestly priced wine list is a plus, as are the fanciful martinis made from soju liquor.
Recommended: Steamed dumplings, dak gan jang, kalbi, o jinga bokum.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9-$18
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Smoking in bar only.
Kang Nam Restaurant (3 forks)
4849 N. Kedzie Ave.
773-539-2524
This large strip mall eatery is one of the best Korean barbecue houses in the city. Diners grill fabulous marinated meats, seafood and more at the table (with the help of the waitstaff). Each meal comes with rice, soup and no fewer than a dozen panchan (little salads and pickles), one more delightful than the next.
Recommended: Fried dumplings, chop chae, grilled beef short ribs.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6.95-$15.95
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NORTHWEST
Woo Lae Oak **
3201 Algonquin Rd.
Rolling Meadows
847-870-9910
Korean barbecue is the specialty at this nattily appointed restaurant; most of the tables are equipped with built-in, gas-fired grills for tableside cooking by customers or, more often, waiters.
Recommended: Yook hwe, dumplings, dae ji gui, barbecued wild boar.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $12.95-$22.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot; smoking in bar only.
Latin
CITY
La Humita (4 forks)
3466 N. Pulaski Rd.
773-794-9672
Fresh, intriguing Ecuadorean dishes mix easily with more familiar pasta selections in this tidy storefront. The place takes its name from a traditional cheese-filled tamale-like appetizer.
Recommended: Humita, rice and shrimp, potato pancakes, cheesecake.
Open: Dinner, lunch Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $10.95-$13.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
UPDATE
Nacional 27 **
325 W. Huron St.
312-664-2727
One of the first pan-Latin restaurants in the city, Nacional 27 has established itself as arguably the best. The menu and wine list have grown in size and sophistication, and chef Randy Zweiban’s cooking is stellar. The restaurant hits its lively peak on weekends, when the center of the dining room is cleared (around 10:30 or so) for Latin dancing to deejay music.
Recommended: Ceviche sampler, smoked-chicken empanadas, pork adobado. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $13.95-$27.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Rumba **
351 W. Hubbard St.
312-222-1226
Live music, featured Wednesdays through Saturdays, supplies most of the heat to this lively nuevo Latino restaurant in River North. Chef Israel Calderon’s menu is dominated by Cuban dishes, which aren’t very spicy; indeed, a couple of dishes are mild to a fault. Recommended: Red snapper ceviche, carne fritto, lamb chops, lemon charlotte.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $25-$35
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservation: Advised on weekend
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.
SushiSamba Rio **
504 N. Wells St.
312-595-2300
This Japanese-Peruvian-Brazilian hybrid, based on the New York City original, is as lively as a Carnevale celebration. David Rockwell’s colorful, multi-textured design, which divides the dining room into various theatrical environments, very nearly overshadows the menu, which is dominated by imaginative sushi rolls and other light bites, with an emphasis on presentation. Bar service can be frustrating, probably because there are so many people crammed in there, waiting for a table.
Recommended: Sawagani (river crabs), Chi-Town roll, lobster seviche, deep-fried red snapper, passionfruit Pudim.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $18-$35
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in lounge only.
WEST
Cafe Cubano (3 forks)
7426 W. North Ave.
Elmwood Park
708-456-6100
This quaint and colorful storefront is a suburban offshoot of the Cafe Bolero on Western Avenue. It serves a sizzling array of authentic Cuban favorites, and entrees come with ample side dishes: tender white rice, black beans and deep-fried sweet plantains.
Recommended: Stuffed yuca, ropa vieja, chicken stew, flan de leche.
Open: Dinner, lunch Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $8.50-$22.50
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Mediterranean
CITY
Caliterra ***
Wyndham Chicago Hotel
633 N. St. Clair St.
312-274-4444
Saddled with a low-visibility location and no exterior signage, Caliterra is a restaurant worth seeking out. The food is a melange of Italian and Californian cuisines, executed with uncommon precision by chef Rick Gresh. However hearty the food, one should save some room to explore the impressive cheese selection, served with a bounty of accompaniments.
Recommended: Soup trio, sweetbreads with pancetta, gnocchi with veal shank, lamb chops, mascarpone cheese cake.
Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $13-$34
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
Wave **
644 N. Lake Shore Dr.
312-943-9200
Perhaps the hippest hotel dining room in town, this sunken space off the lobby of the W Chicago Lakeshore is a study in charcoal, gray and blue, dominated by a bright-red canopy that crests, wave-like, over the 18-seat communal table. The food is similarly sophisticated, though modestly priced.
Recommended: Fish soup, chilled prawns, rotisserie chicken, sea bass, black and white creme brulee.
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$26
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Valet parking; no smoking.
WEST
Isabella’s Estiatorio ***
330 W. State St.
Geneva, 630-845-8624
This Greek-accented Mediterranean restaurant has a refreshing eye for the details that make dining a pleasure. Service is top-notch, the cream-colored dining room is sunny and inviting and the moderately priced wine list is chock-full of appealing choices. Chef Sean Eastwood offers contemporary Mediterranean dishes with a few novel twists, such as a lasagna topped by lemon-yogurt bechamel sauce, and smooth pistachio creme brulee on a crunchy bed of kataifi.
Recommended: Octopus salad, Moroccan-spiced duck, olive-brined pork, galaktoboureko.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$28
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Mexican
CITY
Adobo Grill ***
1610 N. Wells St.
312-266-7999
The considerable promise of this Old Town restaurant has been met by chef Freddy Sanchez, who is producing some of the best Mexican cooking in town, and a greatly improved front-room staff that is very nearly at the top of its game. The beverage program, which includes stellar margaritas along with a monthly tequila tasting event, is a big plus.
Recommended: Ceviche assortment, guacamole (prepared tableside), tilapia with mushroom escabeche. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $12.95-$24.95
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking at bar only.
Chilpancingo ***
358 W. Ontario St.
312-266-9525
Chilpancingo’s spacious and well-appointed dining room is big on creature comforts. But at the heart of it all is Geno Bahena’s superior cooking, exemplified by outstanding mole sauces.
Recommended: Tostaditas de seviche, sopa de ajo, chicken breast in mole negro, salmon with peanut salsa, natillas classicas, Cafe Maya Xtabentun.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $14.50-$27
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Valet parking
UPDATE
Frontera Grill ***
445 N. Clark St.
312-661-1434
It’s hard to believe that this restaurant turned 18 this year; Frontera always seems fresh and innovative and is surpassed in its field only by Topolobampo, Rick Bayless’ more formal Mexican dining room next door. New to the mix is a raw-bar menu offering exclusively sustainable seafood, including excellent oysters and ceviches. But everything on the menu is terrific.
Recommended: Ceviche de calamari, sea scallops in red-peanut mole, pistachio flan.
Open: Dinner, lunch Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $8-$26
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible (elevator to lower-level restrooms); valet parking.
Salpicon ***
1252 N. Wells St.
312-988-7811
Priscila Satkoff turns out wonderful regional Mexican cooking–with an emphasis on her native Mexico City–at this Old Town restaurant, decorated with brightly colored walls and furniture, and even brighter colors on the Alejandro Romero paintings. There’s a well-chosen wine list and an impressive list of tequilas, too.
Recommended: Wild mushroom soup, octopus ceviche, shrimp mojo de ajo, tequila-marinated halibut, pollo yucateca, pastel tres leches.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.
Taqueria La Oaxaquena (4 forks)
3382 N. Milwaukee Ave.
773-545-8585
6113 W. Diversey Ave.
773-637-8709
There’s a pleasant feel to these storefronts, with service that aims to please. The menu is worth scouring, because it holds lots of treasures from Oaxaca, Mexico.
Recommended: Sopa Azteca (chicken soup), nopales asados con chile y cebollitas (cactus appetizer), chiles rellenos, huachinango a la veracruzana (red snapper).
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5.95-$16.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted only on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Topolobampo ***1/2
445 N. Clark St.
312-661-1434
Rick Bayless’ upscale dining room is so dramatically different than any other Mexican restaurant that it’s not just critics who are inspired to take notes. Stunning regional cuisine is matched to a superb wine list low on obvious choices; happily, well-trained staffers are quick with reliable advice. A good strategy is to opt for the five-course tasting menu ($72; $112 with matching wines).
Recommended: Seviche moderna, tequila-cured salmon, garlic soup, stuffed trout, lime tart, homemade ice creams, chocolate pecan pie.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $24-$30
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Required
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NORTH
NEW
San Gabriel Mexican Cafe **
2535 Waukegan Rd.
Bannockburn, 847-940-0200
Fine-dining Mexican lands on the North Shore via this colorful restaurant, tucked into the Bannockburn Green shopping center. The decor may be a bit cliched, but fresh-lime margaritas, homemade tortillas and guacamole prepared tableside boost San Gabriel far beyond the level of most strip-mall Mexican places.
Recommended: Grilled octopus, tuna ceviche, red snapper Veracruzana, huitlacoche-stuffed chicken breast.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $13.95-$19.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
WEST
La Quebrada (3 forks)
4859 W. Roosevelt Rd., Cicero, 708-780-8110
The food seems to do an exceptional job of making up for what the decor lacks. The iron bars on the front window are not pretty, but who cares when you can fill up on regional specialties from Oaxaca, Acapulco and Teloloapan?
Recommended: Barbacoa de chivo (goat meat), pechuga surena (chicken with sour cream sauce), filete al ajillo con guajillo (catfish with garlic pepper sauce), ensalda de nopales (cactus salad).
Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9-$11
Credit cards: M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly (except when the jukebox is on)
Outdoor seating: No
SOUTH
Hacienda Jalapenos **
15426 S. Cicero Ave.
Oak Forest, 708-535-9127
Head south of the border–by which we mean 127th Street–to this delightful fine-dining Mexican restaurant, where chef Diana Davila produces sophisticated food that belies her tender years. Colorful linens dress up the tables in this quietly elegant dining room.
Recommended: Three-pepper crabcake, red snapper with habanero salsa, filet with salsa motulena, orange flan.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $12-$30
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Smoking at bar only
Middle Eastern
CITY
Noon O Kabab (4 forks)
4661 N. Kedzie Ave.
773-279-8899
Expansion hasn’t hurt the quality of this Persian eatery one bit. It still turns out tender, perfectly marinated and grilled kebabs; nutty, buttery basmati rice; and top-notch hummus–to name just a few of the delights.
Recommended: Kebabs, vegetable stews, spinach borani.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun
Entree prices: $8.95-$15.75
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: No smoking
Souk **
1552 N. Milwaukee Ave.
773-227-1818
Things are shaking at this Wicker Park restaurant, particularly on Wednesdays and Saturdays, when belly dancers entertain customers. Chef Daniel Wright has revitalized the menu, emphasizing strong flavors and adding a few Mediterranean influences. Disorganized and slow service needs to improve.
Recommended: Mussels charmoula, mouhamara, tagine-roasted quail, lamb chops, baklava.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $11-$24
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NEW
Tizi Melloul **
531 N. Wells St.
312-670-4338
The contemporary turns with Middle-East and Mediterranean ingredients are almost as dazzling as the Moroccan decor at this River North restaurant. The dining rooms are still gorgeous, particularly the exotic Crescent Room, but these days, Tizi Melloul (named for a Moroccan mountain) is more than just a pretty face.
Recommended: Fire-roasted mussels, merguez-stuffed calamari, tabil-marinated duck, Calabrian fish stew, honey-vanilla flan.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $17-$24
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
Turkish Cuisine and Bakery (3 forks)
5605 N. Clark St.
773-878-8930
Red brick walls, kilim seat coverings and ethnic pop music welcome diners to this eatery and its authentic Turkish food. You’ll find grilled lamb and chicken in a variety of dishes as well as eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and yogurt sauces.
Recommended: Spicy adana kebab, spit-roasted doner kebab, pastrami-stuffed pie.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $7.75-$13.75
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Pan Asian
CITY
Japonais ***
600 W. Chicago Ave.
312-822-9600
There are two kitchens in this nightclubby, Japanese-European hybrid: The sushi bar, where Jun Ichikawa (Mirai) offers traditional and creative sushi and sashimi compositions, and the “hot” bar, where Gene Kato (Ohba) manages everything from panko-crusted oysters to a modern take on Peking duck. There are two sides to the dining space as well; one end dolled up in industrial decor, the other featuring organic elements. The standard appetizer-entree-dessert progression isn’t particularly valid here; it’s best to order several dishes of whatever size and share.
Recommended: Triple-unagi maki, bin cho, pachinko, sake-steamed grouper, “coffee and doughnuts” dessert.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $19-$35
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in lounge only; valet parking.
Opera ***
1301 S. Wabash Ave.
312-461-0161
An exciting night at the opera requires neither tickets nor subtitles thanks to this upscale Chinese concept in the South Loop. Chef Paul Wildermuth turns out a few fusion creations and humorous takes on faux-Chinese dishes such as egg foo young. The low-lit dining room is open to the bar and the display kitchen; a few “vault” tables offer a bit of intimacy to a fortunate few. Save room for one of the superb desserts.
Recommended: Eight immortal squid, Tao of Shellfish, Hunan snapper, beef and broccoli, almond-milk panna cotta.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$28; tasting menu, $45-$74
Credit cards: A, M, V Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking at bar only.
Red Light ***
820 W. Randolph St.
312-733-8880
Thanks to chef Jackie Shen, working under chef/partner Paul Wildermuth, Red Light’s cuisine is as exciting as its festive and eclectic decor. Satays, spring rolls and five-spice ribs mix merrily on a pan-Asian menu that doesn’t take itself too seriously. The a la carte menu offers an abundance of treats, but for a real treat, indulge in the chef’s tasting, a multicourse exploration of the menu, plus a few surprises.
Recommended: Bird’s Nest, Asian bouillabaisse, Hong Kong Jerry, Thai coffee, Jackie’s Chocolate Bag.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $19-$40
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NEW
Tatsu (3 forks)
1062 W. Taylor St.
312-666-8504
This modern sushi bar in the middle of Little Italy holds its own with a broad menu of sushi and cooked Asian dishes.
Recommended: Superman maki, gyoza, shrimp rolls, basil shrimp, cashew chicken, Tatsu fried rice.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Fri.; dinner Sat.
Entree prices: $7-$28
Credit cards: DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
WEST
UPDATE
L’anne ***
221 W. Front St.
Wheaton, 630-260-1234
Kei Uchikawa, formerly of Le Francais and Montparnasse, has put a new spin on the French-Asian menu of this downtown Wheaton charmer; the French influence is stronger these days, and L’anne’s Vietnamese influence has been expanded to include Thai and Japanese flavors, among them a five-course raw dinner featured the last Tuesday of each month. The dining room is bright and cheerful for lunch, dimly lit and romantic at dinner.
Recommended: Mushroom and scallop terrine, gingered lobster, duck breast with foie-gras flan, green apple tart. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Wed.-Fri., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$26
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
SOUTH
Bamboo Blue *
18147 Harwood Ave.
Homewood, 708-799-4700
The “Asian nachos” appetizer option is your first clear signal that this south-suburban Asian restaurant is not obsessed with authenticity. Rather, the kitchen produces fun, Asian-accented creations with a Western sensibility, including a couple of steaks, at very modest prices. The wine list is budget-friendly as well, and includes some unusual bottles. The comfortable dining room is ablaze in color and attractive art.
Recommended: Mussels in coconut broth, salmon with tamarind barbecue sauce, teriyaki steak.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$22
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.
Polish
CITY
Szalas Restaurant (2 forks)
5214 S. Archer Ave.
773-582-0300
The old-country decor (folk costumes hanging on the walls, a water wheel, snow sleds doubling as booths) is a fitting backdrop for the hearty fare served at this classic Polish restaurant.
Recommended: Pierogi, bigos, trout.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $10-$20
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.
SOUTH
Mabenka (2 forks)
7844 S. Cicero Ave.
Burbank, 708-423-7679
Lovely carved benches at the entrance and delicious offerings in the breadbasket (including rye and pumpernickel) only hint at what’s to come at this brightly decorated spot, which stars Polish and Lithuanian food, including soups, stews and sausages.
Recommended: Pierogi, stuffed veal breast, pyzy (ground-meat-stuffed potato dumpling).
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5-$12
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.
Seafood
CITY
Blue Point
Oyster Bar *
741 W. Randolph St.
312-207-1222
Wood-shuttered windows and retro signage highlight the look of this circa-1940s East Coast fish house, which takes its oysters very seriously (at least eight varieties featured daily) and does good-to-excellent work on its other offerings.
Recommended: Crawfish, fresh oysters, grilled octopus, grilled scallops, sesame-crusted Ahi tuna, mile high chocolate cake, Key lime pie.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14.95-$39.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NEW
Blue Water Grill **
520 N. Dearborn St.
312-777-1400
This NYC import has a lot going for it, including excellent raw and sushi bars, some creative cooking by chef Dirk Flanigan and wonderful desserts by Elissa Narow. The dark and sultry interior comprises three dining rooms, the sushi bar and a lounge that features nightly jazz.
Recommended: Tortilla oysters, Himalayan rock tuna, chilled shellfish castle, halibut T-bone, berry crumble.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $19-$49
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in lounge only.
Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab **
60 E. Grand Ave.
312-379-5637
This half-sibling to the famous Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami is open year-round, even when stone crabs are out of season, which explains the mouthful of a name. Stone crabs are the highlight, of course, but very good prime steaks and decent seafood should keep the crowds happy in the summer months, too.
Recommended: Stone crab claws, shrimp de jonghe, crab cakes, lamb chops, bone-in filet, N.Y. strip steak, Key lime pie.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $17.95-$39.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
Shaw’s Crab House ***
21 E. Hubbard St.
312-527-2722
1900 E. Higgins Rd.
Schaumburg
847-517-2722
Great fish, great oysters and great variety are the hallmarks of these seafood houses, which recently added Japanese maki rolls to the menu. The downtown location wears its 1940s look well, and the adjacent Blue Crab Lounge offers music frequently. The Schaumburg spot boasts the Red Shell, a less-formal adjunct with a moderate, shrimp-rich menu.
Recommended: Crab cakes, sashimi tuna, oysters, blue crab fingers, Dover sole, grilled salmon, N’Awlins spicy shrimp, pecan pie.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. (city), Mon.-Sun. (suburbs)
Entree prices: $15.95-$49.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NORTH
Oceanique ***
505 Main St.
Evanston, 847-864-3435
This intimate, upscale French restaurant has a knack with fish and seafood that few can match. Chef-owner Mark Grosz’s creations are as beautiful as they are tasty, and his six-course tasting menu is a fine way to appreciate his range. Equally impressive is a handful of meat entrees. Good service and a deep wine list add to the first-rate experience.
Recommended: Scallops in lobster-cilantro broth, artichoke-bean salad, baked salmon, peppered lamb loin, apple tart.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $22-$32; six-course tasting menu, $60. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Valet parking; no smoking.
WEST
120 Ocean Place **
120 Hale St.
Wheaton, 630-690-2100
Amid soaring peaked ceilings and faux-marble columns, this west-suburban restaurant cranks out terrific seafood. The large menu, which changes daily, offers plenty of variety.
Recommended: Steamed mussels, oysters, spicy shrimp, Maine diver scallops, grilled striped bass, pepper-grilled mahi mahi, tartufo, creme brulee, lemon tart.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $15.95-$35.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Parkers’ Ocean Grill **
1000 31st St.
Downers Grove
630-960-5701
Chef Patrick McLaughlin is steering this worthy seafood restaurant with a steady hand. Fish and shellfish dishes are perked up by the occasional Asian influence, but for the most part this is top-quality seafood, unfussily prepared. The contemporary, wood-trimmed dining room, accented with colorful artwork, is handsome enough for a special occasion.
Recommended: Nachos chinois, grilled grouper, cedar-roasted sturgeon, ice cream tower, chocolate gateau.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $11.95-$29
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.
SOUTH
Phil Smidt’s (3 forks)
1205 N. Calumet Ave.
Hammond, Ind.
800-376-4534
This 450-seat Northern Indiana mainstay has been drawing Chicagoans to its pan-fried perch and frog legs specialties for decades. One taste and you’ll know why.
Recommended: Perch,frog legs, walleye pike, gooseberry pie.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $11.50-$46.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Tin Fish ***
18201 S. Harlem Ave.
Tinley Park, 708-532-0200
17 W. 512 22nd St., Oakbrook Terrace
630-279-8199
These casual seafooder offers the usual assortment of fresh oysters, whole steamed lobsters, crab legs and a handful of prime steaks. There’s also a design-it-yourself aspect to most of the fin fish; customers choose a fish, preparation style and accompaniment from a half-dozen choices each. The chef’s recommendation is clearly indicated, but it’s fun to mix and match.
Recommended: Asian tuna tartare, crab cake, cornmeal-crusted whitefish, blackened mahi-mahi, bourbon pecan pie.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon-Fri.
Entree prices: $12.95-$32.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet Tue.-Sat.; smoking in bar only.
Soul/Southern
CITY
Army & Lou’s **
422 E. 75th St.
773-483-3100
This place is a South Side treasure. The handsome decor features linen-topped tables and a soothing red-and-cream color scheme. Walls are adorned with African and Haitian art. Yet prices remain low. Ribs are very good, and the fried chicken is arguably the best in town.
Recommended: Mustard and turnip greens, fried chicken, barbecued ribs, fried catfish, peach cobbler.
Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch Wed.-Mon.
Entree prices: $5.95-$19.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; small parking lot
NEW
5 Loaves Eatery (3 forks)
2343 E. 71st St.
773-363-0393
This cozy full-service restaurant appointed with Afro-centric prints offers dishes like Mom used to make.
Recommended: Hand-cut fries, chicken-salad sandwich, fried chicken, pound cake.
Open: Early dinner, lunch Tue.-Sat.; early dinner, breakfast, lunch Sun.
Entree prices: $8-$11
Credit cards: M,V
Reservations: Not accepted
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking
Jackie’s Place (3 forks)
425 E. 71st St.
773-483-4095
“Sunday Dinner Any Day of the Week” is the motto here, and Jackie’s does have the everyone-is-family feel. The breakfast menu (which includes things like salmon patties with 2 eggs or liver and fried eggs, each served with a choice of sides) is available any time of day, and the grits are the best you’ll get. There are also honest-to-goodness hoecakes from the griddle instead of the usual baked cornbread.
Recommended: Grits, hoecakes, smothered chicken legs and pork chops.
Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $4.75-$11
Credit cards: None
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.
NEW
Negro League Cafe (2 forks)
301 E. 43rd St.
773-536-7000
This Bronzeville spot (half lounge, half restaurant) is a tribute to the athletes who played in baseball’s Negro Leagues in the first half of the 20th Century. Players’ images fill the walls and their names (Hank “Lawn Mower” Presswood, Al “Sunshine” Spearman) grace the menu, which focuses on Southern and Caribbean-style dishes, along with burgers and other bar-food staples. Think of it as down-home cooking with a history lesson tossed in.
Recommended: Catfish nuggets, chicken Philly sandwich, soul food plate.
Open: Dinner, lunch Tue.-Sat., buffet 1-8 p.m. Sun.
Entree prices: $7-$18
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Yes
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; live jazz Tue. and Sat.
Spanish
WEST
Emilio’s Tapas Bar Restaurant **
4100 W. Roosevelt Rd.
Hillside, 708-547-7177
This small restaurant has a rustic, cozy Spanish atmosphere with wonderful, satisfying food. Emilio’s menu lists more than 18 tapas along with daily specials.
Recommended: Garlic potato salad, spicy chicken wings, paella, sangria, rice pudding.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $14.50-$18.50
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible
NORTHWEST
La Tasca **
25 W. Davis St.
Arlington Heights
847-398-2400
27 S. Northwest Hwy.
Park Ridge, 847-698-4500
Among the best Spanish restaurants in the city or suburbs. Appetizers are all tapas, delicious nibbles best ordered in bulk and passed around the table. The relatively few main courses include several paellas, which are sized for two but will feed more easily.
Recommended: Grilled baby octopus, sauteed sea scallops, paella Valenciana.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun
Entree prices: $3.50-$11.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking at bar only.
Steak
CITY
NEW
Drake Bros. Steaks Chicago **
140 E. Walton St.
312-787-2200
The Drake Hotel’s venerable Oak Terrace Room has been transformed into a white-tablecloth steakhouse whose large windows offer views of Michigan Avenue, Lake Shore Drive and Lake Michigan. Prime beef is augmented by such retro touches as Bookbinder’s Soup and Cherries Jubilee, and as a bonus, the restaurant will serve anything from the downstairs Cape Cod Room menu.
Recommended: Crab cakes, Drake Bros. steak, pork chop.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., breakfast-lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $19-$65
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Gene & Georgetti ***
500 N. Franklin St.
312-527-3718
As an old-fashioned “real guy” steakhouse, this place is unsurpassed. A see-and-be-seen restaurant of another age, Gene & Georgetti attracts a loyal and regular clientele, who come to view the politicians and enjoy the massive, impeccably prepared steaks.
Recommended: Strip steak, lamb chops, calf liver, chicken Vesuvio, prime rib, garbage salad, cheesecake, spumoni.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $16-$40
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.
Gibsons **
1028 N. Rush St.
312-266-8999
One of the city’s finest steakhouses, as the crowded dining room and even more crowded bar attest. Strengths include an attractive interior, superior beef and knowledgeably opinionated waiters.
Recommended: Spinach salad, onion rings, filet mignon, barbecued ribs, strawberry shortcake.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $21.75-$33
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Harry Caray’s **
33 W. Kinzie St.
312-828-0966
10233 W. Higgins Rd., Rosemont, 847-699-1200
Legendary baseball broadcaster Harry Caray died in 1998, but his spirit lives on in these bustling places, Italian steakhouses with sports-themed decor and an old-fashioned charm personified by white-jacketed, eagerly accommodating service. The award-winning wine list is a distinct plus.
Recommended: Grilled baby octopus, lamb chops oreganato, chicken Vesuvio, Sicilian veal chop, tiramisu.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $11.95-$32.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Magnum’s Prime Steakhouse **
225 W. Ontario St.
312-337-8080
777 E. Butterfield Rd., Lombard, 630-573-1010
1701 W. Golf Rd.
Rolling Meadows
847-952-8555
Despite the macho name, this city steakhouse and its suburban siblings are sophisticated and civilized. Decor is stylish, service is knowing (if a bit by-the-numbers) and steaks are first-rate. Do be prepared to deal with noise.
Recommended: Lobster tail, ribeye steak, lamb chops, veal chop.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch (suburbs only) Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $13.95-$125
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Bring earplugs
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Morton’s of Chicago ***
1050 N. State St.
312-266-4820
You won’t find a better steak than the thick, beefy beauties cooked here. The attractive dining room does a good job of overcoming its windowless basement locale; tables are close together, but it’s a convivial crowd. Civilized touches include excellent service, a very good wine list and classy ambience.
Recommended: Steaks, veal chop, baked potato, dessert souffle for two.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $19.95-$42
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; discount parking with validation.
Rosebud Steakhouse **
192 E. Walton Pl.
312-397-1000
Undoubtedly the most laid-back link in the sometimes frenetic Rosebud Restaurants chain, this neighborhood steakhouse offers first-rate steaks, surprisingly varied seafood choices and excellent service. And though the atmosphere is low-key, starched linen and tuxedo-clad servers indicate the restaurant isn’t cutting back on the finer points of fine dining.
Recommended: Southern-fried oysters, bone-in filet, osso buco (Thursdays only), burger, apple-caramel cheesecake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $16-$37 Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Smith & Wollensky **
318 N. State St.
312-670-9900
This impressive steakhouse sits at the base of Marina City. Part of a New York chain, it offers succulent, aged-on-premises steaks, hefty lobsters dusted with cayenne pepper and a monstrous twice-cooked pork shank. The light-filled dining room is decorated with American art; an outdoor patio overlooks the Chicago River. Wollensky’s Grill offers smaller-portioned steaks and keeps late-night hours.
Recommended: Crab cakes, lobster cocktail, Wollensky salad, sirloin steak, Angry Lobster, apple betty.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $25-$65
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NORTH
Pete Miller’s Seafood & Prime Steak **
412 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Wheeling, 847-243-3700
Even at 375 seats, there’s not always enough room at this steakhouse for everyone. The prime steaks are excellent, but more memorable are such touches as lower-priced menu items, live no-cover jazz and blues and kid-friendly features. The original Pete Miller’s in Evanston is smaller, but offers the same menu.
Recommended: Seared tuna, beef wellington, bleu cheese-crusted ribeye.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $17-$50
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Swedish
CITY
Classic
Ann Sather
929 W. Belmont Ave.
773-348-2378
A warm and friendly hangout that has nurtured a generation of budget-conscious diners, Ann Sather is pure comfort, from the legendary cinnamon rolls at breakfast to the blueberry pie at night. Entrees include a starter course and a couple of side dishes, and no one walks away hungry. There are three other Ann Sather locations scattered about the North Side, but only this location serves dinner every night.
Recommended: Duck with lingonberry sauce, Swedish meatballs, pickled herring, cinnamon rolls.
Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9.50-$12.95
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Accepted only for parties 6 or more
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Free parking lot
Svea (2 forks)
5236 N. Clark St.
773-275-7738
Cinnamon roll-slinging Ann Sather across the street packs ’em in on weekends, but we prefer this tiny breakfast and lunch spot, decked out with blue- and yellow-checked tablecloths, blue wood paneled walls and an old-timey lunch counter.
Recommended: Viking breakfast, Three Crown Special.
Open: Breakfast, lunch (or very early dinner) Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5-$9
Credit cards: None
Reservations: Accepted only for large parties
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Thai
CITY
Amarind’s (4 forks)
6822 W. North Ave.
773-889-9999
Amarind’s is too good to be true. The interior is unassuming–and spotless. Thai artwork on the walls is handsome. The Thai menu offers high-class fare that just doesn’t cost very much.
Recommended: Tom yum shrimp soup, spicy curry pork, moo ping, bay scallop salad, spinach noodles with seafood.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $7.95-$10.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Arun’s ***
4156 N. Kedzie Ave.
773-539-1909
Mention that you’re having dinner at Arun Sampanthavivat’s tower of Thai and watch people turn green with envy. There’s no menu here: after divulging your likes, dislikes and tolerance for spiciness with the waiter, you simply sit back and enjoy the parade of four appetizers, seven small entrees and dessert. Each complex combination of flavors is as artfully constructed as the incredibly beautiful dishes themselves. The wine list is small, but every bottle is very carefully chosen.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.
Dinner price: $85 (12-course tasting menu)
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly advised
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Spoon Thai (4 forks)
4608 N. Western Ave.
773-769-1173
It might not be obvious why this tiny storefront eatery in Lincoln Square is so special. But enter the attractive room with its friendly proprietors and you’ll discover food in flavors and combinations not seen elsewhere in Chicago.
Recommended: Curried catfish custard, mien cam (lettuce leaves folded over dried shrimp, ginger, lime, onion, cilantro and toasted coconut), marinated fried chicken with sweet spicy dipping sauce.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $4.95-$6.95
Credit cards: M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: No smoking
WEST
Bistro Thai (3 forks)
110 N. 3rd St.
St. Charles, 630-587-9595
The dining room here exudes a restful, Asian-inspired beauty, and the familiar array of Thai favorites are prepared with care and fresh ingredients, with considerable attention given to presentation.
Recommended: Bistro Thai sampler, pad woodsen (glass noodles with vegetables), khee mao (wide rice noodles with jalapenos, tomatoes and basil).
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $7.95-$11.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Hushed
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
Thipi Thai (3 forks)
50 S. La Grange Rd.,
La Grange, 708-588-1002
This upscale Thai restaurant blends comfort with elegance. Gold-plated bamboo-shaped flatware and Asian-inspired dishware set the stage for the artfully plated entrees, many familiar to Thai food aficionados: vegetable spring rolls, chicken satay, pad siew, pad Thai. The spicy food really is–so keep the water glass filled.
Recommended: Basil eggplant, lard nar.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $8.95-$16.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: No smoking
Vegetarian
CITY
Alice & Friends Vegetarian Cafe (3 forks)
5812 N. Broadway
773-275-8797
This pan-Asian veggie eatery’s name references “Alice in Wonderland,” and the off-kilter but cutesy decor has an appropriately hallucinogenic quality. We’ve never encountered such convincing soy-based meat substitutes, from “un-chicken” with crunchy simulated skin to “un-beef” with spot-on texture.
Recommended: Tempura-fried organic oyster mushrooms, barbecue un-chicken “drumsticks,” “White Rabbit’s favorite” (veggie burger).
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Sat.
Entree prices: $7-$13
Credit cards: M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
WEST
Sri Ganesh Cuisine (3 forks)
837 E. Roosevelt Rd.
Lombard, 630-620-9175
If you overlook the nondescript strip-mall location, you’ll be rewarded with an expansive array of Northern and Southern Indian dishes–all vegetarian. Dosai–giant, crispy crepes rolled around a variety of fillings–are a specialty and come in 13 varieties.
Recommended: Rasam (a fiery, tomato-based soup), chana masala (chickpeas and potatoes in a tomato sauce), carrot halwa (shredded, sweetened carrots with cashews, peanuts and raisins).
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch buffet Tue.-Fri., lunch Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $4.45-$8.95; lunch buffet, $6.95.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking; BYOB.
Vietnamese
CITY
NEW
Cafe Hoang (4 forks)
1010 W. Argyle St.
773-878-9943
This unpretentious and intimate neighborhood restaurant specializes in imposing meal-sized soups.
Recommended: Goi cuon (Vietnamese spring rolls), pho (beef or chicken soup), bo tai chanh (spicy lemon beef salad).
Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5.45-$23
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: No
Le Colonial **
937 N. Rush St.
312-255-0088
With its French Saigon atmosphere (French doors, ceiling fans, bamboo) and Vietnamese fare, Le Colonial is a nice oasis from the steak and pasta rush you typically get on Rush Street. They really squeeze you in here, and service can be a little trying, but the overall experience is laid back and elegant.
Recommended: Beef salad, spring rolls, seared monkfish, filet mignon, Chilean sea
bass, whole snapper, banana wonton.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$24
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.
Pasteur ***
5525 N. Broadway
773-878-1061
The charming design–colorful pastel walls, ceiling fans, plenty of artwork and tropical plants–makes this one of Chicago’s most comfortable Vietnamese restaurants. The excellent food makes it arguably Chicago’s finest.
Recommended: Goi cuon spring rolls, chao tom, hai san ha long, Saigonese duck.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$27
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Advised
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Outdoor seating: Yes
Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot after 6:30 p.m.
NEW
Vien Dong Restaurant (3 forks)
3227 N. Clark St.
773-348-6879
Bright lights and a vast menu shouldn’t turn diners away from this enticingly fresh Vietnamese fare.
Recommended: Hot and sour shrimp fire pot, duck rolls, Vietnamese pancakes, beef with peapods.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $6-$20
Credit cards: M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Hushed
Outdoor seating: No
———-
Chicago Tribune Dining Guide
Janet Franz, Editor
Phil Vettel, Restaurant critic
John Dziekan, Photographer
Gail Mitchell, Art director
Itasca Wiggins, Editorial assistant
How to contact us
Comments and suggestions are welcome.
Dining Guide, Chicago Tribune
435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611
312-222-3500; specialsections@tribune.com




