A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
302 WEST (star)(star)(star)1/2 302 W. State St., Geneva, 630-232-9302. One of the finest restaurants in the Western suburbs (or anyplace else), 302 West continues to play to its strengths, namely a devotion to fresh fish and seasonal produce, and sharp and intuitive service. With Jeremy Lycan demonstrating multicultural range in the kitchen and owner Katherine Findlay overseeing the front room, a spectacular evening is all but assured. Save room for dessert; there are about two dozen offerings daily, with absolutely no wrong choices. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $27.50-$36.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
A MILANO (star) 305 S. Happ Rd., Northfield, 847-716-6500. The former MK North has changed concepts but not ownership, morphing into an urban trattoria with modest prices and lots of special deals (half-price-wine Mondays, birthday-cake Tuesdays, etc.). The hearty and unfussy food isn’t mind-blowing, but everything’s solid. Recommended: Arugula pizza, fish carpaccio, marinated skirt steak, chicken Firenze, osso buco, biscotti. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $11-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted before 6 p.m., and for parties of five or more. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
ARUN’S (star)(star)(star) 4156 N. Kedzie Ave., 773-539-1909. Though perhaps not as bright a jewel as it was a few years ago, Chicago’s finest Thai restaurant continues to shine. Diners put themselves in the kitchen’s hands (there’s no menu, but waiters inquire about food sensitivities and spice tolerance) and typically are rewarded with high-quality, imaginative dishes that are as artistic as the museum-quality works that adorn the dining room (including an in-progress mural by Anawat Sampanathavivat, brother of owner Arun). Service could be more communicative, but there’s no lack of warmth or attentiveness. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Prices: Dinner $85 prix-fixe. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Required, credit-card-secured. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet weekends, no smoking.
BLACKBIRD (star)(star)(star)1/2 619 W. Randolph St., 312-715-0708. This smart, contemporary restaurant, which has garnered just about every culinary accolade worth having, is as exciting and dynamic as it was when chef/partner Paul Kahan opened it more than seven years ago. Though the menu changes with dizzying frequency, you can still count on a few constants, such as a game offering or two and some version of suckling pig. Service is friendly and assured, desserts continue to dazzle and if the place weren’t so darned noisy, it would be perfect. Recommended: Suckling pig, endive salad, stuffed quail, apricot bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
BLUE WATER GRILL (star)(star) 520 N. Dearborn St., 312-777-1400. This new NYC import has a lot going for it, including excellent raw and sushi bars, some creative cooking by chef Dirk Flanigan and wonderful desserts by Elissa Narow. The dark and sultry interior comprises three dining rooms, sushi bar and a lounge that features nightly jazz. Recommended: Tortilla oysters, Himalayan rock tuna, . Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $19-$49. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
BRASSERIE JO (star)(star) 59 W. Hubbard St., 312-595-0800. Closing in on its 10th birthday (this fall ), this charming bistro has lost some of the wow factor that accompanied its premiere, but it remains a very solid performer. Some of the dishes that defined the restaurant in 1995 are still on the menu, and still excellent. Recommended: Onion tart Uncle Hansi, tart flambe, steak tartare, shrimp bag, profiteroles. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$26. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
THE DINING ROOM (star)(star)(star)1/2 Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 160 E. Pearson St., 312-573-5223. New chef Kevin Hickey is proving to be a capable successor to the departed Sarah Stegner, offering French-informed American cooking with an artist’s eye and a gastronome’s heart. The menu consists of several prix-fixe menus, most of which offer choices in all courses (but substitutions are graciously accommodated even in the top-of-the-line chef’s menu). Pacing could be tighter, but you really have to dig deep to find serious complaints about this operation. Recommended: Scallops Benedict, house-smoked salmon, foie-gras composition, veal with artichoke-sweetbread ragout. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $70-$110. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted valet parking, no smoking.
FRONTERA GRILL (star)(star)(star) 445 N. Clark St., 312-661-1434. Hard to believe that this restaurant turned 18 in March; Frontera always seems fresh and innovative and is surpassed in its field only by Topolobampo, Bayless’ more formal Mexican dining room next door. New to the mix is a raw-bar menu offering exclusively sustainable seafood, including excellent oysters and ceviches. But everything on the menu is terrific. Recommended: Ceviche de calamari, sea scallops in red-peanut mole, pistachio flan. Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $14.95-$24.95. Reservations: Same-day reservations accepted. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
THE GROTTO (star)(star) 1030 N. State St., 312-280-1005. A steakhouse in a neighborhood chock-full of them, The Grotto is nevertheless worthy of attention for its good looks, capable waitstaff and the solid cooking of chef Abraham Aguirre, who cranks the same Italian-American specialties that marked his tenure at the original Giannotti’s and Harry Caray’s. Good steaks and chops and one of the city’s best versions of Chicken Vesuvio are matched by a surprisingly deep dessert selection. Recommended: Carpaccio, grilled calamari, red snapper oreganato, lamb chops, chocolate-chip cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted parking (with validation).
KAZE (star)(star) 2032 W. Roscoe St., 773-327-4860. What distinguishes this inviting 40-seat sushi spot from its myriad competitors is its specialty nigiri sushi, which are dressed with complementary sauces and toppings (banana peppers and black pepper with hamachi, enoki mushrooms and truffle oil with salmon), freeing diners from the tired old wasabi-soy dunk. Those, along with similarly conceived sashimi specials and well-executed traditional Japanese cooked items, make up the bulk of the menu. A few entrees–black cod and shrimp with almonds and chocolate sauce, venison in a sea of curry sauce–are fusion efforts that don’t yet succeed. Applaud the effort, then get back to the sushi. Recommended: Bluefin tuna nigiri, tuna loin sashimi, octopus sashimi, seafood hot pot. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$15. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
LA PINTA (star)(star) 25 W. Calendar Ct., La Grange, 708-354-8100. This tapas restaurant takes its name from one of Christopher Columbus’ sailing ships–and that’s about the extent of the Spanish influence on the menu, which reflects chef/owner Tony Soto’s Mexican heritage. Which is not in itself a bad thing; Soto’s something-sweet, something-spicy cooking style adapts well to a small-plate format. The beverage program needs more wine choices, but there are several margarita and sangria options. The large, wood-trimmed dining rooms are brightened by an assortment of colorful, Mexican-inspired artworks. Recommended: Bacon-wrapped scallops, tilapia ceviche, lamb chops, stuffed peppers, walnut-crusted halibut, Mayan Tulum dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Prices: Tapas $5-$10, entrees $17-$20. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking at bar only.
LE FRANCAIS (star)(star)(star)(star) 269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, 847-541-7470. Roland Liccioni, who ruled this kitchen through most of the 1990s, is back, cooking with the same vigor that marked his glory days at this temple of fine-dining. His menu is a stunning mix of old favorites and new creations, but his style is so light that only veteran patrons will be able to tell which is which. Abetted by a veteran front-room crew that brings a relaxed, unintimidating air to the experience, Liccioni has restored the magic to Milwaukee Avenue. Recommended: Double duck consomme, osetra-caviar gelee with foie-gras terrine, scallop cake, poached veal, raspberry souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $35; seven-course dinner $90. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MON AMI GABI (star)(star)(star) 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, 773-348-8886; 260 Oakbrook Center, Oak Brook, 630-472-1900. The city original and its west-suburban clone are irresistible bistros that ooze Gallic charm. Cute touches include the paper sleeves that protect the crusty baguettes and the rolling wine cart that dispenses by-the-glass pours. But the real draw is the solid food, from plats du jour such as stuffed quail over frisee to the various incarnations of steak frites. Recommended: Scallops gratinee, trout grenobloise, bacon-wrapped pork loin. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. (no lunch at Chicago location). Entree prices: $15.95-$29.95. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking available.
OSTERIA VIA STATO (star)(star) 620 N. State St., 312-642-8450. “Trust the chef” is a common-enough practice in fine-dining circles, but this restaurant introduces the concept at a much lower price level. For about $36, diners select an entree and not much more: Executive chef Rick Tramonto and chef de cuisine David DiGregorio do the rest, sending out a parade of antipasti, from silken slabs of cured salmon to crisp wood-grilled radicchio with parmesan cheese (and seconds are encouraged). These are followed by a pair of pastas (pappardelle in meat ragu if you’re lucky) before the entree arrives. Desserts and drinks optional; there’s a fine all-Italian wine list offering bottles, quartinos (250 ml) and several fixed-price “Just Bring Me Wine” options. Recommended: Beef shortribs, polpettone, chicken Mario. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Prices: Dinner $35.95, lunch $17.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
PRAIRIE GRASS CAFE (star)(star)(star) 601 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook, 847-205-4433. When Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris left the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room to create a “simpler” restaurant, I doubt anyone anticipated just how serious they were. The modestly priced menu offers such well-worn (albeit expertly fashioned) standards as chicken-liver pate and spicy chicken wings. But everything tastes great, the bustling dining room has a homey Midwestern feel, there’s good, warm bread on the table and service is cheerful and eager. What’s not to like? Recommended: Tuna rolls, crabcake, shepherd’s pie, flat-iron steak, apple pie. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$28. Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, smoking in bar only.
ROOM 22 RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE (star)(star) 22 E. Hubbard St., 312-527-4900. Now that there’s a new exterior sign, diners may be able to find this low-key but sophisticated River North spot. In nightclubby surroundings highlighted by serious art, chef Joe Rossi dishes up an appealing mix of small-plate (but hardly low-cal) dishes, listed on the one-page menu by intensity of flavor. Start with a light bite such as Serrano ham with deviled eggs, move on to crabmeat-stuffed piquillo peppers and finish with a robust game meat. Interesting wines by the glass are pricey; the $40 “mixed bottle” option (three 250 ml-pours of selected wines) is a better deal. Recommended: Duo of salmon tartare and sashimi tuna, scallop souffle, duck with butternut-squash risotto. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $22-$30, Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
X/O (star)(star)(star) 3441 N. Halsted St., 773-348-9696. Inasmuch as the dining world has gone mad for small plates, restaurateurs should visit X/O to see how it should be done. Bob Zrenner’s creative plates manage to be undersized and easily shareable, vivid without being showy and are unfailingly interesting. Amy Lewis’ enticing wine list is cliche-free and fairly priced, and Jordan Rappaport’s desserts end each meal on a rousing note. Recommended: Crabcake duo, spicy rock-shrimp salad, ribeye steak, Chocolate Orgasm. Open: Dinner Wed.-Mon., brunch Sun. Prices: Small plates, $6-$13.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, late-night menu.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
