I have to admit, when I first heard about some of the decor elements planned for Romeo Romeo, the restaurant that opened last week in Wicker Park’s former Ezuli space, I was worried. An Italian restaurant with a gangster motif? Mama mia! A cliche like that might get you whacked in some parts. And what’s with that Shakespearean name? Frankly, I didn’t get it.
And then I went, and–bada boom!–guess what? I get it now.
The inspiration here is less Gangland Chicago and more neo-realist Italian cinema. From the back wall looms the silhouette of a pistol-packing Alberto Sordi, culled from the 1962 film “Il Mafioso.” But don’t be scared: Like its predecessor, this eatery makes a stylish, if laid-back, date spot. Simultaneously retro-revivalist and high-hipster chic, the ambiance treads that precarious line between camp and cool.
Sort of like the menu: Italian classics, modern context. Chef Eric Smith, 33–who worked for the past six years at the front of the house at Vivo, the stylish Italian spot on West Randolph Street–returns to his culinary roots. He’s also worked in the kitchen at the now-shuttered Spruce, and he started his career as a sous chef at the four-star Oklahoma City spot Coach House.
And while not everything, uh, blew us away, Smith’s mid-priced lineup has hit potential. He starts with a firm grounding in the kind of spaghetti-and-meatballs cuisine that every Italian kid was raised on (at least this one), and then advances it in a way that makes the familiar–just like that menacing mural–a bit provocative.
Take, for instance, his interpretation of that most played-out standby, the Caprese salad. Smith’s fanciful Inflatable Caprese Salad ($12) is a much-welcome update. Big enough for a couple to share, this half-globe of cheese is injected with basil oil and air–hence, “inflated”–then smoked and paired with wedges of roasted tomatoes, served cold. It’s a nice balance of texture, temperature and flavor. Even the lowly Caesar ($8) gets a bit of a makeover here with grilled romaine and polenta croutons.
Appetizers feature many crowd-pleasers: bruschetta ($7), calamari ($9) and carpaccio ($11). We tried the savory arancini (that’s Italian for rice cake), topped with a thick rosemary-flecked cream sauce ($9).
We found a lot of attention to details, from the house bread, baked with fresh basil, to the genial service. When I casually commented that I should jot down the names of the wines I sampled, my server found a piece of paper and listed them for me.
The wine list, by the way, is no afterthought. Interesting by-the-glass selections include the Franco Fiorina Gavi ($7) and Dievole Fourplay ($8). Bottle selections ($28-$120) offer plenty of opportunities to explore Italian reds and whites too.
And unlike nearby Tre Via (1575 N. Milwaukee Ave. 773-227-7990), another contemporary Italian spot, which recently jumped on the small-plate bandwagon (a style we’re increasingly dubious of), Romeo Romeo offers standard-size portions. Pasta highlights include the Crabby Alfredo ($17), fettuccine mixed with peeky-toe crab, and a surprisingly tasty chicken lasagna ($14), made with two kinds of ricotta and served atop dueling marinara and pomodoro sauces.
Entrees again feature some gussied-up versions of usual suspects. The Carne de Maiale, rosemary-stuffed pork tenderloin ($24), was probably a bit on the tough side,but was offset by lovely house-made gnocchi and grilled asparagus topped with lemon sections. The menu, however, veers into Italian cliche–in name at least–with Steak Sinatra ($33), a New York strip. Fortunately, the house music sticks to funky lounge beats.
Desserts are all house-made, and include panna cotta with strawberry puree ($7) and cannoli over apple anglaise ($7). We stopped by on a Monday, when things were pretty slow. I think in an effort to make us feel welcome–or perhaps just to use up that day’s desserts–Smith presented us with a piece of triple-chocolate cake ($7).
With desserts like that, our parting was sweet, without the sorrow.
