A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
ARUN’S (star)(star)(star) 4156 N. Kedzie Ave., 773-539-1909. Though perhaps not as bright a jewel as it was a few years ago, Chicago’s finest Thai restaurant continues to shine. Diners put themselves in the kitchen’s hands (there’s no menu, but waiters inquire about food sensitivities and spice tolerance) and typically are rewarded with high-quality, imaginative dishes that are as artistic as the museum-quality works that adorn the dining room . Service could be more communicative, but there’s no lack of warmth or attentiveness. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Prices: Dinner $85 prix-fixe. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Required, credit-card-secured. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet weekends, no smoking.
AVENUES (star)(star)(star)(star) Peninsula Chicago Hotel, 108 E. Superior St., 312-573-6754. Regarding Graham Elliot Bowles’ most playful creations–the Altoid-laced mint jus supporting an oddly carved lamb chop, or the Pop Rocks-studded lollipop of chilled foie gras–it’s easy to think of the chef as a sort of culinary Willy Wonka. But what these madcap concoctions have in common with more approachable dishes such as rabbit pot au feu or caviar-crowned scallops is flavor–the pursuit of which drives everything this remarkable kitchen produces. Choose from a modest three-course menu, one of four six-course options or the chef’s-choice 12-course extravaganza, but whatever path you choose, the gastronomic rewards will be great, ending with Wendi James’ delightful desserts. Service is attentive to the point of clairvoyance, and sommelier Aaron Elliott’s affable presence makes beverage selection as much fun as perusing the menu. Recommended: Foie gras over “spice krispies,” truffled frog-leg risotto, buffalo short ribs with smoked peaches, “untraditional” carrot cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $75-$138. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BLACKBIRD (star)(star)(star)1/2 619 W. Randolph St., 312-715-0708. This smart, contemporary restaurant, which has garnered just about every culinary accolade worth having, is as exciting and dynamic as it was when chef/partner Paul Kahan opened it more than seven years ago. Though the menu changes with dizzying frequency, you can still count on a few constants, such as a game offering or two and some version of suckling pig. Service is friendly and assured, desserts continue to dazzle and if the place weren’t so darned noisy, it would be perfect. Recommended: Suckling pig, endive salad, stuffed quail, apricot bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
BUTTER (star)(star) 130 S. Green St., 312-666-9813. “Ladies first,” begins the manifesto on the back page of Butter’s menu, outlining the restaurant’s less-than-revelatory philosophy that if you make a restaurant comfortable for women, the crowds will follow. There are a number of thoughtful touches, true (purse-hanging table clips, extra restroom amenities), but frankly the real story here is chef Ryan Poli’s creative American cooking, which focuses on light but flavor-filled preparations (not a lot of red meat here). Prices are a bit steep, though the kitchen compensates somewhat with inventive freebie munchies at the beginning of the meal. Recommended: Nicoise salad, halibut with short-rib ravioli, duck duo, cheese plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
THE DINING ROOM (star)(star)(star)1/2 Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 160 E. Pearson St., 312-573-5223. New chef Kevin Hickey is proving to be a capable successor to the departed Sarah Stegner, offering French-informed American cooking with an artist’s eye and a gastronome’s heart. The menu consists of several prix-fixe menus, most of which offer choices in all courses (but substitutions are graciously accommodated even in the top-of-the-line chef’s menu). Pacing could be tighter, but you really have to dig deep to find serious complaints about this operation. Recommended: Scallops Benedict, house-smoked salmon, foie-gras composition, veal with artichoke-sweetbread ragout. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $70-$110. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted valet parking, no smoking.
THE GROTTO (star)(star) 1030 N. State St., 312-280-1005. A steakhouse in a neighborhood chock-full of them, The Grotto is nevertheless worthy of attention for its good looks, capable waitstaff and the solid cooking of chef Abraham Aguirre, who cranks the same Italian-American specialties that marked his tenure at the original Giannotti’s and Harry Caray’s. Good steaks and chops and one of the city’s best versions of Chicken Vesuvio are matched by a surprisingly deep dessert selection. Recommended: Carpaccio, red snapper oreganato, lamb chops, chocolate-chip cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted parking (with validation).
LA PETITE FOLIE (star)(star) 1504 E. 55th St., 773-493-1394. Close by the University of Chicago in Hyde Park, this white-tablecloth dining room is a warm and inviting oasis from the busy streets just steps away. The compact French menu is nevertheless brimming with good choices, and the budget-constrained will love the early-bird dinner and prix-fixe lunch options. Recommended: Venison pate, pan-seared scallops, pheasant breast. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $16-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot, no smoking.
MON AMI GABI (star)(star)(star) 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, 773-348-8886; 260 Oakbrook Center, Oak Brook, 630-472-1900. The city original and its west-suburban clone are irresistible bistros that ooze Gallic charm. Cute touches include the paper sleeves that protect the crusty baguettes and the rolling wine cart that dispenses by-the-glass pours. But the real draw is the solid food, from plats du jour such as stuffed quail over frisee to the various incarnations of steak frites. Recommended: Scallops gratinee, trout grenobloise, bacon-wrapped pork loin. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. (no lunch at Chicago location). Entree prices: $15.95-$29.95. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking available.
OSTERIA VIA STATO (star)(star) 620 N. State St., 312-642-8450. “Trust the chef” is a common-enough practice in fine-dining circles, but this restaurant introduces the concept at a much lower price level. For about $36, diners select an entree and not much more: Executive chef Rick Tramonto and chef de cuisine David DiGregorio do the rest, sending out a parade of antipasti, from silken slabs of cured salmon to crisp wood-grilled radicchio with parmesan cheese (and seconds are encouraged). These are followed by a pair of pastas (pappardelle in meat ragu if you’re lucky) before the entree arrives. Desserts and drinks optional; there’s a fine all-Italian wine list offering bottles, quartinos (250 ml) and several fixed-price “Just Bring Me Wine” options. Recommended: Beef shortribs, polpettone, chicken Mario. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Prices: Dinner $35.95, lunch $17.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
PRAIRIE GRASS CAFE (star)(star)(star) 601 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook, 847-205-4433. When Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris left the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room to create a “simpler” restaurant, I doubt anyone anticipated just how serious they were. The modestly priced menu offers such well-worn (albeit expertly fashioned) standards as chicken-liver pate and spicy chicken wings. But everything tastes great, the bustling dining room has a homey Midwestern feel, there’s good, warm bread on the table and service is cheerful and eager. What’s not to like? Recommended: Tuna rolls, crabcake, shepherd’s pie, flat-iron steak, apple pie. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$28. Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, smoking in bar only.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
