The hostess taking the dinner reservation asked if our party would have any special requirements.
One of us is a vegan, we said.
Could she be accommodated?
Of course, the hostess assured us.
No problem at all.
There was a five-second pause.
“Uh, can you spell vegan?”
Vegans and vegetarians are everywhere.
But they’re still misunderstood, occasionally mistreated and often marginalized–sometimes even within their families.
Dad: “We’re going out to dinner tonight.”
Daughter: “Where?”
Dad: “Uncle Dave’s Scrapple Shack.”
Daughter: “Isn’t scrapple, like, bologna made with tails and stuff?”
Dad: “Oh, you can get a salad or something.”
Look, it’s 2005. Vegans, vegetarians and meat lovers should be able to coexist. Or at least have dinner together once in a while.
We wondered if that is possible. Our mission was to visit eight Chicago-area restaurants– four on the vegetarian-friendly side of the ledger and four in the carnivore camp. Kelly the Vegan would see if her no-animal-products-not-even-honey lifestyle could be accommodated. Bill the Carnivore would explore the world of tofu and legumes and hoped these places served gravy to wash it all down. Could we both be satisfied?
VEG FRIENDLY: RAS DASHEN
5846 N. Broadway; 773-506-9601
Everything from the background music to mesobs–wicker hourglass-shaped tables–adds to the atmosphere. But it’s the food that makes this Ethiopian eatery a keeper. We went with the vegetarian combo ($9.95), served on a giant communal platter and eaten with a basket of injera, the warm, spongy flatbread used instead of silverware to scoop food.
Bill: Some of the highlights on the platter were misser wat (lentils in a spicy berbere red pepper–sauce), kik alicha (yellow split peas), ferfer (injera cooked in berbere sauce), qosta (spinach) and misser salata (a cold lentil salad). With choices like this (entrees run from $8.95 to $15.95), there’s no reason to consider a meat dish. Ever.
Kelly: Although veganism has lessened my fear of foodstuffs of questionable origin, Ethiopian food and how it’s served was pretty unusual even to me. But the unique flavors and textures made for a surprisingly filling and satisfying meal.
Verdict: We can’t wait to go back. The injera alone was worth the trip.
Our rating: 5 baskets of injera (henceforth, our standard of measure) out of a possible 5.
CARNIVORE CAMP: OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE
11 Chicago-area locations
Could a vegan find anything on the menu at such a carnivore’s paradise?
Kelly: After explaining to the waitress three times that cheese does indeed count as an animal product, I was presented with a plain baked potato, abowlof steamed broccoli, and an anemic-looking salad (with a renegade piece of cheese lurking inside). I do have to cut Outback some slack, though, because I was the jerk in search of vegan fare in a steakhouse.
Bill: In a show of solidarity, I tried to go meatless. I managed to stay away from meat by going with the Friday Night Cholesterol Special–a Bloomin’ Onion ($6.29) and cheese fries ($6.79). Maybe not nutritionally correct, and certainly not a reason to go to a steakhouse, but the two appetizers did fill me up. Pretty tasty too.
Verdict: Meat-lovers, have at it. Vegans and vegetarians, look elsewhere.
Our rating: 1 1/2 baskets of injera.
VEG FRIENDLY: FLAT TOP GRILL
3200 N. Southport Ave.; 773-665-8100
What is that? Bill asked.
Seitan, Kelly said.
Satan? Lucifer in solid brown wrinkly form?
No, seitan. It’s a meat substitute made from wheat gluten, Kelly explained.
Good enough for me, Bill said, and threw several pieces into his bowl.
Bill: Not only can you build your own stir-fry, it can even be turned into wraps or soups. One spin through the line at dinner costs $12.99; for an additional buck you get unlimited trips. We got our money’s worth. The brown rice vermicelli is not to be missed.
Kelly: In a world of bacon-wrapped hot dogs dipped in mayonnaise, finding seitan in a Wrigleyville restaurant is like finding a sock full of diamonds in a gas station bathroom.
Verdict: Even the family dolt could put together a tasty meal here. And if he can’t, pay the extra buck and send him back for a second trip through the line.
Our rating: 3 1/2 baskets of injera.
CARNIVORE CAMP: CATCH 35
35 S. Washington St., Naperville; 630-717-3500
We’d barely settled into our seats when our server asked if we had any special requirements. Kelly played the vegan card. He didn’t bat an eye.
Kelly: I admit I went into Catch 35 with a bad attitude, expecting to end up with a plate of limp vegetables. However, the staff of this seafood outpost deftly handled my dietary needs with a vegetable stir-fry ($17.95) that would shame your local noodle shop. Moreover, the service was outstanding; not only was the waiter receptive to my needs, he seemed genuinely excited to tackle the challenge.
Bill: Kelly cornered the market on vegetarian fare–she did share her stir-fry with me, and I was most impressed–so I went with the soft-shell crabs ($23.95). My eyes rolled back in my head, if that tells you anything about how good they were.
Verdict: Bustling, attractive setting, a perfect dining experience. If you visit, ask for Troye.
Our rating: 5 baskets of injera.
VEG FRIENDLY: GREEN ZEBRA
1460 W. Chicago Ave.; 312-243-7100
Tasteful, attractive decor, exceptional service–everything at this mostly vegetarian restaurant was explained to perfection–great food … . Green Zebra should be a destination for everyone, vegetarian, vegan or meat-eater.
Bill: This was a spectacular culinary experience. I had the marinated fresh mozzarella salad with an arugula puree and parmesan cracker ($10) for starters, followed by slow-roasted shiitake mushrooms in a crispy potato with savoy cabbage ($12), and gnocchi with morel mushrooms, sugar snap peas, pine nuts and parmesan broth ($13).
Kelly: While stir-fry may fly most nights, I cannot give enough praise to a restaurant like Green Zebra, where vegetables and spices are combined to create an entirely new dish–not merely thrown together into a semi-homogenous heap. Therein lies the artistry of vegan cooking. I had the wild mushroom and organic dandelion miso soup with a sesame rice cracker and roasted tofu ($9), Okinawan sweet potato dumplings with fresh water chestnuts in star anise broth ($9), and crimson lentil cake with spiced shallot and bell pepper jam and preserved lemon ($11). The delicate flavors were worlds away from anything I could haggle from a chef at a non-vegan establishment.
Verdict: We were still talking about the meal two weeks later.
Our rating: 5 baskets of injera.
CARNIVORE CAMP: IGNOTZ RISTORANTE
2421 S. Oakley Ave.; 773-579-0300
We loved the neighborhood, the decor, the warmth and the family atmosphere at this small, charming Italian restaurant. But it proved a challenge.
Kelly: As much as I wanted to love Ignotz, I was let down. I figured I’d be safe with the marinara sauce, but our server checked with the kitchen and came back with disappointing news: There was butter in it. Nothing on the menu was vegan-friendly, but after another visit to the chef, our server suggested a pasta primavera with various vegetables. A noble effort, but the flavorless concoction lacked cohesiveness and showed an inability to fulfill a vegan’s somewhat outlandish needs.
Bill: You could almost make a meal of the warm bread that starts you off. But we also went for the bruschetta ($4.50)–minus the cheese, of course–which was excellent. And I finished up with a generous plateful of cheese ravioli (a real bargain at $9).
Verdict: Vegans may have problems here, but vegetarians won’t. Good food, welcoming ambience. And the gangway entrance is reason alone to stop in.
Our rating: 3 1/2 baskets of injera.
VEG FRIENDLY: SOUL
Vegetarian East Restaurant
205 E. 75th St.; 773-224-0104
We’d heard that service here was perhaps a little too mellow, i.e., dreadfully slow. But we were greeted as soon as we walked in and had servers checking on us constantly. The menu is huge, full of exciting and daring stuff.
Bill: After the protein tidbits appetizer (a huge basket of deep-friend wheat gluten with a barbecue dipping sauce, $5.50), I tried a bowl of brown lentil soup ($3.50) and the lunch special–battered steak (again, wheat gluten), mashed potatoes with “gravy” and vegetables ($10). This was by far the most interesting and one of the best meals to cross the table during this dining exercise. With variety and flavors like this, who needs meat?
Kelly: As a main course, I had the barbecue twist platter ($9)–yet more wheat gluten with barbecue sauce (think boneless baby back ribs). The entire menu is made up of exciting dishes made to satiate disgruntled vegans sick of explaining their dietary choices to wait staff. I was in mock-hog heaven. I was so thrilled with the food that I’m considering moving into the neighborhood. And as for the claims of slow service: I’m assuming this applies only to the dinner rush. Any restaurant that clearly puts so much heart and effort into its menu is bound to be a bit slow sometimes. It’s worth it.
Verdict: Put your newspaper down, call some friends and head over to East 75th Street. You won’t be disappointed. It’s so good.
Our rating: 5 baskets of injera.
CARNIVORE CAMP: LA QUEBRADA
723 S. Broadway, Aurora; 630-896-2535
Another challenge. Despite an extensive menu–loved the cliff divers on the front–there wasn’t much for a vegetarian, much less a vegan, to choose from at this colorful, family-friendly restaurant.
Kelly: My La Quebrada experience featured a couple of incidents involving unwelcome creams and cheeses. I was limited to sopes y huaraches ($1.95). I suspect the refried beans contained lard, but I was too frustrated to explain to the server the problem with that. That aside, everything was fresh, the portions were generous, and the server did her best.
Bill: I looked longingly at the shrimp possibilities but stayed the vegetarian course and was able to load up quite happily on enchiladas ($5.95) and guacamole ($5.50), along with the chips and warm salsa that came to the table.
Verdict: Authentic Mexican food at reasonable prices. We’d go again. But we’d leave the vegan at home.
Our rating: 2 1/2 baskets of injera.
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On the menu
Has our interest in vegetarian fare increased?
41% of family-dining restaurants had customers ask for more vegetarian entrees.
39% of casual-dining restaurants had customers ask for more vegetarian entrees.
24% of quick-service restaurants saw increased interest in vegetarian entrees.
Source: The National Restaurant Association’s 2005 Restaurant Industry Forecast
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Tips for dining vegan in a meat-eating land
It’s difficult to be a vegan in a meat-eaters’ world–even in a vegetarian-friendly part of that world. But with a little research and flexibility, it’s possible to find a restaurant that will satisfy people at both sides of the table.
If you’re taking that vegetarian or vegan in the family out for a meal, there are a few steps you can take to try to assure a pleasant dining experience.
First, remember: Vegetarians don’t eat meat, poultry or fish. Vegans go further, excluding all animal products, such as eggs, dairy, honey or anything that includes gelatin.
1. Do research: Check the Internet to see if your dining destination posts a menu on its site to get an idea of the eatery’s parameters.
2. Call ahead: Ask if the restaurant has vegetarian options. Then throw a real curve and ask about vegan options. Most places are willing to improvise. Some even seem to welcome the challenge. But make sure they know exactly what is off-limits (yes, honey is an animal product).
3. Be flexible: Don’t expect gluten dishes at a rib joint. Work with the server and chef; they’re usually more than happy to try and put together a satisfying meal.
4. Consider eateries geared to the vegetarian/vegan. A few online sources worth checking out include www.vegchicago.com, www.vegdining.com and www.happycow.net.
5. Remember that these eateries can be diverse. As author Margaret Littman notes in “Veg Out Vegetarian Guide to Chicago” (Gibbs Smith, $12.95 paperback), her look at 150 vegetarian and vegan restaurants, “Like Chicago’s always impressive restaurant scene, the selection of veg-friendly eateries run the gamut from greasy corner diners to upscale bistros with attentive sommeliers.”
— W.H., K.H.
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Kelly’s five faves
Here are my top 5 restaurants for vegan dining:
Thai Spoon
632 S. Wabash Ave.; 312-427-9470
A flexible kitchen staff and the best tofu in the city.
Chicago Diner
3411 N. Halsted St.; 773-935-6696
Known nationwide as one of the best vegan restaurants; they do it all, from their annual Thanksgiving feast to wedding cakes.
Earwax Cafe
1561 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-772-4019
Their chocolate soy milkshakes make you feel like you’re getting away with something.
Karyn’s Cooked
738 N. Wells St.; 312-587-1050
Oh, the fajitas. Sign me up.
Sultan’s Market
2057 W. North Ave.; 773-235-3072
Mediterranean fast food. The menu tells you which items are vegan. Huge salad bar.
— K.H.
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bhageman@tribune.com
