A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
302 WEST (star)(star)(star)1/2 302 W. State St., Geneva, 630-232-9302. One of the finest restaurants in the Western suburbs (or anyplace else), 302 West continues to play to its strengths, namely a devotion to fresh fish and seasonal produce, and sharp and intuitive service. With Jeremy Lycan demonstrating multicultural range in the kitchen and owner Katherine Findlay overseeing the front room, a spectacular evening is all but assured. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $27.50-$36.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
A MILANO (star) 305 S. Happ Rd., Northfield, 847-716-6500. The former MK North has changed concepts but not ownership, morphing into an urban trattoria with modest prices and lots of special deals (half-price-wine Mondays, birthday-cake Tuesdays, etc.). The hearty and unfussy food isn’t mind-blowing, but everything’s solid. Recommended: Arugula pizza, fish carpaccio, biscotti. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $11-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted before 6 p.m., and for parties of five or more. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
ARUN’S (star)(star)(star) 4156 N. Kedzie Ave., 773-539-1909. Though perhaps not as bright a jewel as it was a few years ago, Chicago’s finest Thai restaurant continues to shine. Diners put themselves in the kitchen’s hands (there’s no menu, but waiters inquire about food sensitivities and spice tolerance) and typically are rewarded with high-quality, imaginative dishes that are as artistic as the museum-quality works that adorn the dining room Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Prices: Dinner $85 prix-fixe. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Required, credit-card-secured. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet weekends, no smoking.
AVENUES (star)(star)(star)(star) Peninsula Chicago Hotel, 108 E. Superior St., 312-573-6754. Regarding Graham Elliot Bowles’ most playful creations–the Altoid-laced mint jus supporting an oddly carved lamb chop, or the Pop Rocks-studded lollypop of chilled foie gras–it’s easy to think of the chef as a sort of culinary Willy Wonka. But what these madcap concoctions have in common with more approachable dishes such as rabbit pot au feu or caviar-crowned scallops is flavor–the pursuit of which drives everything this remarkable kitchen produces. Choose from a modest three-course menu, one of four six-course options or the chef’s-choice 12-course extravaganza, but whatever path you choose, the gastronomic rewards will be great, ending with Wendi James’ delightful desserts. Service is attentive to the point of clairvoyance, and sommelier Aaron Elliott’s affable presence makes beverage selection as much fun as perusing the menu. Recommended: Foie gras over “spice krispies,” truffled frog-leg risotto, “untraditional” carrot cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $75-$138. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BLACKBIRD (star)(star)(star)1/2 619 W. Randolph St., 312-715-0708. This smart, contemporary restaurant, which has garnered just about every culinary accolade worth having, is as exciting and dynamic as it was when chef/partner Paul Kahan opened it more than seven years ago. Though the menu changes with dizzying frequency, you can still count on a few constants, such as a game offering or two and some version of suckling pig. Service is friendly and assured, desserts continue to dazzle and if the place weren’t so darned noisy, it would be perfect. Recommended: Suckling pig, endive salad, stuffed quail, apricot bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
BUTTER (star)(star) 130 S. Green St., 312-666-9813. “Ladies first,” begins the manifesto on the back page of Butter’s menu, outlining the restaurant’s less-than-revelatory philosophy that if you make a restaurant comfortable for women, the crowds will follow. There are a number of thoughtful touches, true (purse-hanging table clips, extra restroom amenities), but frankly the real story here is chef Ryan Poli’s creative American cooking, which focuses on light but flavor-filled preparations. Prices are a bit steep, though the kitchen compensates somewhat with inventive freebie munchies at the beginning of the meal. Recommended: Nicoise salad, halibut with short-rib ravioli. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
JP CHICAGO (star)(star) 901 W. Weed St., 312-337-2001. Step into this artful bistro and you might think yourself transported to Paris, or at the very least to a movie set. But there’s little bistro purity in chef/partner Jason Paskewitz’ menu, which bears testimony to culinary influence far and wide. Nevertheless, the food is uncomplicated, good and affordable, augmented by a modestly priced wine list, and isn’t that what a bistro is all about? Recommended: Baked shrimp with feta cheese, foie gras with poached figs, roasted halibut, stuffed trout. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, smoking at bar only.
LE FRANCAIS (star)(star)(star)(star) 269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, 847-541-7470. Roland Liccioni, who ruled this kitchen through most of the 1990s, is back, cooking with the same vigor that marked his glory days at this temple of fine-dining. His menu is a stunning mix of old favorites and new creations, but his style is so light that only veteran patrons will be able to tell which is which. Abetted by a veteran front-room crew that brings a relaxed, unintimidating air to the experience, Liccioni has restored the magic to Milwaukee Avenue. Recommended: Double duck consomme, osetra-caviar gelee with foie-gras terrine, raspberry souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $35; seven-course dinner $90. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MON AMI GABI (star)(star)(star) 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, 773-348-8886; 260 Oakbrook Center, Oak Brook, 630-472-1900. The city original and its west-suburban clone are irresistible bistros that ooze Gallic charm. Cute touches include the paper sleeves that protect the crusty baguettes and the rolling wine cart that dispenses by-the-glass pours. But the real draw is the solid food, from plats du jour such as stuffed quail over frisee to the various incarnations of steak frites. Recommended: Scallops gratinee, trout grenobloise, bacon-wrapped pork loin. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. (no lunch at Chicago location). Entree prices: $15.95-$29.95. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking available.
OSTERIA VIA STATO (star)(star) 620 N. State St., 312-642-8450. “Trust the chef” is a common-enough practice in fine-dining circles, but this restaurant introduces the concept at a much lower price level. For about $36, diners select an entree and not much more: Executive chef Rick Tramonto and chef de cuisine David DiGregorio do the rest, sending out a parade of antipasti, from silken slabs of cured salmon to crisp wood-grilled radicchio with parmesan cheese (and seconds are encouraged). These are followed by a pair of pastas (pappardelle in meat ragu if you’re lucky) before the entree arrives. Desserts and drinks optional; there’s a fine all-Italian wine list offering bottles, quartinos (250 ml) and several fixed-price “Just Bring Me Wine” options. Recommended: Beef shortribs, polpettone, chicken Mario. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Prices: Dinner $35.95, lunch $17.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
PRAIRIE GRASS CAFE (star)(star)(star) 601 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook, 847-205-4433. When Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris left the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room to create a “simpler” restaurant, I doubt anyone anticipated just how serious they were. The modestly priced menu offers such well-worn (albeit expertly fashioned) standards as chicken-liver pate and spicy chicken wings. But everything tastes great, the bustling dining room has a homey Midwestern feel, there’s good, warm bread on the table and service is cheerful and eager. What’s not to like? Recommended: Tuna rolls, crabcake, shepherd’s pie, flat-iron steak, apple pie. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$28. Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, smoking in bar only.
VIE (star)(star)(star) 4471 Lawn Ave., Western Springs, 708-246-2082. Chef/owner Paul Virant spent some time cooking in Blackbird (among other restaurants) and there’s a bit of Blackbird in Vie, his first solo venture–both in the seasonality Virant brings to his menu and in the less-than-ideal creature comforts of the dining room. But Virant’s food triumphs over all, though eager service and a nicely chosen and judiciously priced wine list are big pluses as well. Recommended: Pork Milanese, quail with arugula and dates, roasted fluke with lentils, chocolate financier. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $19-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
