Silent as Carl Sandburg’s fog arriving on little cat’s feet, the autumn color season slides soundlessly from north to south. It is nature’s finest performance, albeit often too short.
Illinois: Rock River ramble
– THE ROUTE: Along the scenic Rock River, from Rockford to Dixon on Illinois Highway 2.
– THE HIGHLIGHTS: From Rockford, the first stop is Byron, where the community Civil War Memorial in the middle of an intersection shows some dings. Nearby, the Byron Forest Preserve has golf, two museums, a restored prairie and hiking trails. Leombruni’s Italian Village offers delicious homemade Italian food (moderate).
On to Oregon, home to Lowden State Park and wonderful bluff-top views of the Rock River. For a water-level view, take a Rock River lunch or dinner cruise on the paddle-wheeler Pride of Oregon. Oregon hosts a big autumn festival, Autumn on Parade, the first weekend in October (Oct. 1 and 2 this year). Pinehill Inn Bed and Breakfast has four rooms in an 1874 Italianate Estate ($115-$195; 800-851-0131; www.pinehillbb.com).
Just south of Oregon, Castle Rock State Park (a day-use park) has views of the river, hiking trails, picnic facilities and a nature preserve.
Farther south is charming Grand Detour, where the John Deere Historic Site preserves the home Deere built in 1836. The Colonial Rose Inn, an 1855 Italianate B&B, offers four rooms with private bath and full breakfast ($90; 815-652-4422; www.colonialroseinn.com).
The drive ends in Dixon, home to the Ronald Reagan Boyhood Home, from where it’s an easy drive back to the Chicago area on Interstate Highway 88.
– SIDE TRIPS: Eight miles west of Oregon, White Pines Inn at White Pines Forest State Park has log-cabin lodging (try to snag a cancellation), a restaurant in the original log lodge and a dinner theater.
– BEST TIME FOR FALL COLOR: Mid- to late October.
– ILLINOIS FALL COLOR INFO: 800-2CONNECT; www.enjoyillinois.com
Indiana: Along the Ohio
– THE ROUTE: Along the Ohio River, from Madison to Law-renceburg, on Indiana Highways 56 and 156.
– THE HIGHLIGHTS: Begin in Madison, a vibrant, historic city where the entire downtown district is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The showpiece is the Greek Revival Lanier Mansion State Historic Site (tours available).
OVO Cafe is noted for its gourmet sandwiches, steak and chicken (moderate). Newly opened Madison Vineyards Bed and Breakfast has four rooms with private baths ($115-$150; 812-273-6500; www.madisonvineyards.com/BEDBREAKFAST.html).
From Madison, drive east to Vevay, where Belterra Casino and Resort offers riverboat gaming, big-name entertainment and Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse, noted for excellent steaks. Vevay’s picturesque riverfront and 19th Century buildings provide fascinating images of the past.
Rosemont Inn Bed and Breakfast has five rooms with private baths in an 1881 riverside mansion ($100-$125 with full breakfast; 800-705-0376; www.rosemont-inn.com).
Next stop along the Ohio is Rising Sun, home to the Hyatt Grand Victoria Casino and Resort. The scenic downtown river walk and 19th Century architecture provides the perfect setting for an autumn stroll. The Courtyard Food and Spirits, noted for steaks and seafood, offers dining in–where else?–the courtyard. Mulberry Inn and Gardens Bed and Breakfast has five rooms with private baths and full breakfast ($89-$125; 800-235-3097; www.enjoyrisingsun.com/mulberryinn.php).
On to Aurora, where Hillforest Mansion, a National Historic Landmark, offers public tours. Applewood Food and Spirits, downtown on the river, is a pleasant family restaurant (moderate).
The drive ends in Lawrenceburg, home to the Argosy Casino and Hotel, just before the Ohio state border.
– SIDE TRIP: Clifty Falls State Park, just west of Madison, offers hiking, camping, Ohio River scenery, seven waterfalls and lodging at the Clifty Inn.
– BEST TIME FOR COLOR: Second and third week in October.
– INDIANA FALL COLOR INFO: 877-ENJOY IN; www.in.gov/tourism/media/ideas/fall.html
Iowa: Mississippi turning
– THE ROUTE: Along the Mississippi River, from Dubuque to Marquette on U.S. Highway 52, County Road X-56 and U.S. Business 18.
– THE HIGHLIGHTS: From Dubuque (don’t miss the views from Eagle Point Park), our drive goes northwest and away from the river for a while through rolling hills before meeting up with the Mississippi again near Millville. A more rugged option: Take the Great River Road (County Road C9Y on this section) from Sageville until it rejoins U.S. 52 at Millville.
Our first stop is Guttenberg, on the banks of the Big Muddy. Visit Lock and Dam No. 10 to see towboats push long strings of barges through the locks. The Guttenberg library holds a historic copy of the Guttenberg Bible. If you’re spending the night, The Landing has 10 rooms and nine suites in a restored 19th Century riverside warehouse ($39-$159; 563-252-1615; www.thelanding615.com). More delightful river views and great steaks can be found at Cafe Mississippi, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner (moderate).
North of Guttenberg, take County Road X-56 (another part of Iowa’s Great River Road) to Pike’s Peak State Park for river views from the highest bluffs on the Upper Mississippi.
It’s just 2 miles to McGregor, a community of brick streets, antique shops and towering limestone bluffs. The Twisted Chicken features eclectic meals (moderate) and an art gallery in a 19th Century building. Little Switzerland Inn has six residence suites that sleep from two to six guests ($85-$150; 563-873-2057; www.littleswitzerlandinn.com).
Our drive ends 2 more miles north at Marquette, home to the Isle of Capri Casino–and a bridge across the Mississippi to Prairie du Chien, Wis., where, if you choose, you can return to the Dubuque area on another scenic route–Wisconsin’s Great River Road (this sentence as published has been corrected in this text).
– SIDE TRIP: Just north of Marquette on Iowa Highway 76, Effigy Mounds National Monument has 195 prehistoric Indian mounds, including 31 effigy mounds in the shapes of birds and animals. There’s a visitor’s center and even more fantastic river views.
– BEST TIME FOR COLOR: Mid- to late October.
– IOWA FALL COLOR INFO: 515-233-4110; www.iowadnr.com/forestry/fallcolor
Michigan: Lake to lake
– THE ROUTE: Along Green Bay, from Menominee to Escanaba, on Michigan Highway 35, U.S. Highway 41 to Trenary, Michigan Highway 67 to Forest Lake and Michigan Highway 94 to Munising.
– THE HIGHLIGHTS: The first half of this drive follows the water. First stop: J.W. Wells State Park (near Cedar River), which features a scenic shoreline and rustic cabins for rent.
Then it’s on to Escanaba, a bustling harbor town along the shores of Lake Michigan’s Little Bay de Noc. Ludington Park, overlooking the harbor, offers picnic areas and a sandy beach, and is home to the historic Sand Point Lighthouse (open afternoons through September). The House of Ludington has 25 rooms in a historic 1860s hotel ($55-$85; 906-768-6300; www.houseofludington.com). The Stonehouse restaurant offers fine dining and an extensive menu in a quiet, non-smoking atmosphere; excellent steaks and seafood (moderate).
From Escanaba, take U.S. 41 north through Gladstone and Rapid River and, then, inland to Trenary.
From there, follow Michigan 67 and 94 to Munising, western gateway to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Stretching for some 40 miles along Lake Superior, the 73,000-acre park is a four-season recreational destination.
Narrated boat tours offer unparalleled views of the soaring rock formations. The famed Miner’s Castle formation is easily accessible by auto.
Motels are the lodging of choice here. Best Western of Munising, 3 miles east on Michigan Highway 28, has 80 rooms, a restaurant and lounge ($89, plus tax; 906-387-4864; www.exploringthenorth.com/bestwmun/bestwest.html).
Sidney’s Restaurant offers daily lunch and dinner specials and fresh local fish (budget).
– SIDE TRIP: Take Michigan 28 east 34 miles to Seney, then south on Michigan Highway 77, 4 miles to the Seney National Wildlife Refuge to see migrating birds and waterfowl, including loons and trumpeter swans. Return to Munising, or complete a circle to Rapid River on Michigan 77 and U.S. Highway 2 for more Lake Michigan views.
– BEST TIME FOR COLOR: Mid-September to mid-October.
– MICHIGAN COLOR INFO: (Upper Peninsula) 800-562-7134; www.uptravel.com (effective Sept. 15)
Wisconsin: Superior views
– THE ROUTE: Along Lake Superior’s south shore and the Bayfield Peninsula from Superior to Ashland, on U.S. Highway 2 and Wisconsin Highway 13.
– THE HIGHLIGHTS: First stop, Superior, at the head of Lake Superior, with a long history of shipbuilding. Several marine attractions are found along the waterfront including boat tours of the huge Duluth-Superior Harbor.
Drive east from Superior on U.S. Highway 2 to Wisconsin Highway 13. Amnicon Falls State Park is just south of Wisconsin 13 on County U, where sparkling waterfalls and rapids dance along the Amnicon River.
Back on Wisconsin 13 eastbound you’ll come to the Brule River State Forest and cross the Bois Brule River, famed for its excellent trout fishing. Lake Superior comes into view soon after, dazzling blue in sunshine, moody gray on cloudy days, awesome anytime. On to Cornucopia (pop. 203), Wisconsin’s northernmost community and home to beautiful onion-domed St. Mary’s Russian Orthodox Church. The Village Inn restaurant serves a variety of delightful fish specialties (moderate).
Next stop, charming Bayfield, gateway to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Soak up the Lake Superior atmosphere of Bayfield’s waterfront and enjoy its eclectic shops and artists’ galleries. A maritime heritage museum provides glimpses into Bayfield’s rich past. You can cruise the Apostle Islands via excursion boats that leave Bayfield daily to mid-October.
Bayfield’s famed Old Rittenhouse Inn serves elegant, five-course gourmet dinners nightly that include tender breast of pheasant encrusted in hazelnuts (upscale). Cooper Hill House Bed and Breakfast offers four rooms with private baths and continental breakfast ($99-$109; 715-779-5060; www.cooperhillhouse.com ).
Our drive ends in Ashland, one-time logging and iron ore shipping community. Or complete the circle, and take U.S. 2 back to Superior.
– SIDE TRIP: Sample island life on Madeline Island; it’s a short ferry ride from Bayfield.
– BEST TIME FOR FALL COLOR: Mid- to late-September to early October.
– WISCONSIN FALL COLOR INFO: 800-432-8747; www.travelwisconsin.com
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