A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
ALINEA (star)(star)(star) 1723 N. Halsted St., 312-867-0110. At Grant Achatz’ delirious laboratory of fine dining, ingredients sometimes serve as their own utensils, dishes arrive on pillows of herb-infused air and snack-food technology is applied, with neither apology nor apparent irony, to create wonders of haute cuisine. If this sort of dining makes you rethink the nature of eating itself, you’re starting to get the point, though Achatz never loses sight of the ultimate goal, which is to make food taste good. Diners sit in elegantly minimalist surroundings to contemplate the prix-fixe tasting menus of 8, 12 and 24 courses, where the question seems to be less “what would you like?” and more “how much time do you have?” Friendly service demystifies the experience with unintimidating explanations of every dish and ingredient, including the not-always-apparent way in which they’re meant to be consumed. An unforgettable experience. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun. Prices: Tasting menus $75, $110, $175. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking, jackets requested.
AVENUES (star)(star)(star)(star) Peninsula Chicago Hotel, 108 E. Superior St., 312-573-6754. Regarding Graham Elliot Bowles’ most playful creations–the Altoid-laced mint jus supporting an oddly carved lamb chop, or the Pop Rocks-studded lollypop of chilled foie gras–it’s easy to think of the chef as a sort of culinary Willy Wonka. But what these madcap concoctions have in common with more approachable dishes such as rabbit pot au feu or caviar-crowned scallops is flavor–the pursuit of which drives everything this remarkable kitchen produces. Choose from a modest three-course menu, one of four six-course options or the chef’s-choice 12-course extravaganza, but whatever path you choose, the gastronomic rewards will be great, ending with Wendi James’ delightful desserts. Service is attentive to the point of clairvoyance, and sommelier Aaron Elliott’s affable presence makes beverage selection as much fun as perusing the menu. Recommended: Foie gras over “spice krispies,” truffled frog-leg risotto, buffalo short ribs with smoked peaches, “untraditional” carrot cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $75-$138. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BALLO (star) 445 N. Dearborn St., 312-832-7700. This restaurant doesn’t combine the restaurant and nightclub concepts so much as it smashes them head on. When the joint gets jumping, the music volume makes conversation all but impossible, while strobe lights and a disco ball add to the disorientation. Try this place during the early bird hours, when management has yet to pump up the volume and you can appreciate chef/partner Joe Farina’s very respectable, homestyle Italian food in portions that will have you toting home more food than you actually consume. Recommended: Sausage panadina, antipasto bar, veal parmigiana, apple cigars. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $15-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Deafening. Other: Valet parking, smoking at bar and cocktail tables.
BLACKBIRD (star)(star)(star)1/2 619 W. Randolph St., 312-715-0708. This smart, contemporary restaurant, which has garnered just about every culinary accolade worth having, is as exciting and dynamic as it was when chef/partner Paul Kahan opened it more than seven years ago. Though the menu changes with dizzying frequency, you can still count on a few constants, such as a game offering or two and some version of suckling pig. Service is friendly and assured, desserts continue to dazzle and if the place weren’t so darned noisy, it would be perfect. Recommended: Suckling pig, endive salad, stuffed quail, apricot bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
THE DINING ROOM AT KENDALL COLLEGE (star)(star) 900 N. North Branch St., 312-752-2328. Now that Kendall College has moved its acclaimed culinary program to Goose Island from Evanston, its student-run dining room is one of the city’s hidden gems. For considerably less than the cost of a “real” restaurant meal, you can dine on surprisingly sophisticated food, prepared by students who are one step away from the restaurant world (this is the final class before graduation). Waiters, by contrast, are less experienced, but you’ll have the satisfaction of giving these neophytes some valuable real-life experience. The dining room itself is pretty and spacious, offering dramatic city-skyline views. Recommended: Green curry crabcake with mango, pork tenderloin and belly, tamarind-glazed duck, chocolate pot de creme. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $15-$22. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot, no smoking.
NARRA (star)(star) 1710 Orrington Ave., Evanston, 847-866-8700. A steakhouse for people who don’t care for the uber-masculine steakhouse model, this dining room in the Hotel Orrington is a soft, contemporary space enlivened with Chihuly-inspired glass chandeliers. Steaks and most meats are more moderately portioned, and come with three sauces, which you choose from about a dozen options. Along with traditional inclusions such as a first-rate steak tartare, the menu also makes room for sweetbreads and a daily risotto, along with very contemporary salads. Cigar lounge? Not at this smoke-free hotel. Recommended: Watermelon salad, skate wing, bouillabaisse. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
