The young woman puts on a pair of $250 jeans from French designer Notify. She scrutinizes her figure–front, then back–in the designer denim, then seeks a second opinion.
Jim Wetzel, co-owner of the boutique, Jake, quickly sizes up the construction and fit of the jeans as “hmm, not quite right.” Though Notify customizes its butt-sizes–A, B and C like bras (“Am I a C? I don’t want to be a C. Ohmigod, I’m a C,” the woman says, looking inside the label)–he thinks she would look better in a pair with bigger pockets and tighter construction on top. She needs, he says, “more of a jean.”
“I feel like the jeans are wearing you–and you need to be wearing the jeans,” said Wetzel, whose boutiques are at 939 Rush St. and 3740 N. Southport Ave.
We love our jeans, but we hate trying them on.
Americans spent $14.7 billion on denim last year, according to The NPD Group, and we consider it workwear, eveningwear and everywhere in between. But trying it on is about as fun as a trip to the dentist.
In front of a three-way mirror, all our body issues come out: Our legs are too short, our thighs feel huge, our butt is too big, or we have no butt at all.
But designer jeans–and lately, even less expensive jeans from retailers like the Gap–promise to do something more for your body. How the jeans are cut, sewn and washed promise to change your rear, your hips, your thighs and even your self-confidence–change you.
For the woman at Jake, Wetzel selects a pair of Saddelites, which are built to shape and contour curvy figures. The jeans have side panels that work like little girdles for the thighs and are cut in the rear to smooth out and lift the backside.
Kristin Ann Groff, a denim specialist who works with female clients at Barneys Co-Op, 2209 N. Halsted St., says women come to the store looking for a magic pair to resolve all their body issues. Unfortunately, the hottest jeans of the moment–including the ultrahot $320 Antiks and $260 True Religions–don’t work for everyone.
“It sets people up for disappointment,” Groff said.
Every body is different, and every pair of jeans is different, she said. The only way to find the right pair is to try, try, try them on.
Groff and Amber Richards, another denim specialist at Barneys Co-Op, like their clients to try on at least eight to 10 pairs.
“That’s my biggest thing,” Groff said. “You have to try things on. You have to try a lot on.”
If trying on that many pairs is too psychologically taxing, as painful as trying on bathing suits at the start of summer, then come back another day.
“I always say, it’s only denim; it’s not rocket science,” said Richards, who specializes in men’s denim. “If it’s going to ruin your day, then don’t buy anything. I’ll be here tomorrow.”
BEST BUTT FORWARD
CAN MIRACLE JEANS MAKE YOU LOOK BETTER? REDEYE TESTS THEM
It’s not easy to find the perfect pair of jeans.
Walk into stores, and there aren’t just a few kinds to chose from–there are entire walls and denim “bars” stacked with dozens of different brands and cuts. And many of them claim special powers: Elongating! Slimming! Lifting!
Where to start?
Those who sell premium denim say there’s only one way to go–try them on. So that’s what RedEye did.
Staffers Kathryn Masterson and Michael Morgan visited Barneys Co-Op, 2209 N. Halsted St., where denim specialists Amber Richards and Kristin Ann Groff picked out rooms full of designer denim and helped us put it to the test. Not all of the promised body shaping and lifting worked out.
Some jeans squeezed in the wrong places or made us feel uncomfortable. (For men, especially, “it’s all about the comfort,” Richards said, while women are more interested in trendy styles and how the jeans look on their bodies.) Richards and Groff patiently worked with us, helping us find jeans that worked.
We also learned a lesson: Don’t be discouraged if the first couple of pairs look or feel horrible on you. Keep trying. You’ve got to kiss a lot of frogs to find your prince (or princess).
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Here’s a little more of what we learned:
Kathryn
ANTIK Saddle Pocket
PRICE: $286
WHAT THEY’RE DESIGNED TO DO: The back of the jeans, especially the stitched yoke, is designed to lift the butt into a 3-D, shapely rear, Groff said. Extra stitching on the sides is supposed to pull thighs in to make a perfect form.
WHAT THEY DID TO US: This pair was the worst of the bunch on me. The back of the jean squished my butt rather than lifting it up. The extra stitching squeezed too much. And the long pockets, recognizable by their saddle-inspired design, hit too low on my thighs.
Kathryn
TRUE RELIGION Joey (White contrast stitching exclusive to Barneys)
PRICE: $262
WHAT THEY’RE DESIGNED TO DO: Low-waist cut works well on curvier girls, Groff said. The oversize pockets are supposed to make the butt look smaller and lift it up. The dark denim is supposed to make legs look slimmer.
WHAT THEY DID TO US: The white stitching/dark denim combination was really cute, but these jeans didn’t lift my butt–they flattened it. The pockets that hit mid-thigh cut off some of my leg, and the low-rise front and the low-cut back left me feeling too exposed.
Kathryn
CITIZENS FOR HUMANITY Elle (Exclusive to Barneys)
PRICE: $185
WHAT THEY’RE DESIGNED TO DO: Polyurethane stretch holds its shape; contour shading makes legs look slimmer.
WHAT THEY DID TO US: My favorite pair. Lifted my butt and slimmed my thighs in front. Pockets hit at the right part of the butt, so it lifted, rather than pushing down.
Kathryn
CITIZENS FOR HUMANITY
Dunaway–Trouser style
PRICE: $209
WHAT THEY’RE DESIGNED TO DO: Wide pocket placement makes butts look narrower, but because the pockets aren’t especially large, it’s not as noticeable a trick, Groff said. A dart in the back keeps the jeans from gapping at the waist. These jeans are good for a fuller figure.
WHAT THEY DID TO US: A close second for favorite. Lifted the butt, hugged the curves. They felt a little tight, but Groff reassured me that the jeans would give, and you have to buy them tight because within 30 minutes of wearing them, they’ll start to loosen up.
Michael
PAPER, DENIM AND CLOTH
LTD–Relaxed
PRICE: $176
WHAT THEY’RE DESIGNED TO DO: Relaxed and loose through the leg, meant for casualwear with flip-flops or sneakers, said Pamela Lewis, who works in the Barneys menswear department.
WHAT THEY DID TO US: Liked the combination of color and fit. The jeans had a relaxed fit through the thighs and a slight flare at the bottom.
Michael
PAPER, DENIM AND CLOTH
GTO–Bootcut
PRICE: $182
WHAT THEY’RE DESIGNED TO DO: This more classic fit is fitted in the thigh. Can be dressed up or down, and the boot cut helps balance out the thigh.
WHAT THEY DID TO US: These had nice coloring, but the fit was a bit too snug through the seat for my taste. I look like I’m clinching.
Michael
RAG AND BONE Fashion–Relaxed
PRICE: $285
WHAT THEY’RE DESIGNED TO DO: Dressier denim. Not an everyday jean. A good brand if you’re into collecting denim.
WHAT THEY DID TO US: My favorite pair. Could wear them with a suit jacket and still look dressier than in a pair in of broken-in khakis.
Michael
EARNEST SEWN Hemingway–Relaxed
PRICE: $198
WHAT THEY’RE DESIGNED TO DO: Skinnier straight leg with a modern straight cut. Dressy and fashion forward.
WHAT THEY DID TO US: Fit was nice in the thigh but felt too snug in the seat. These would be OK on someone who wears their pants lower on their waist.
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kmasterson@tribune.com
