Even the Good Eating staff. It’s hard for us, too, to put dinner on the table each night after dragging home from work at 6 or 7 p.m. And yet, it’s kind of an appealing challenge. A quick balanced meal, made with the help of ingredients at hand. Oh, and one that tastes good–that’s understood. We recently took a look in our pantries, then voted on our favorite products, the ones we use often.
We started with a long list, then narrowed it to the indispensible or more unusual foods. What the items have in common: They are versatile and they will last at least a few months (often longer than that) in the cupboard or freezer. Then we created a dish for each product. The result? Great ideas and great recipes for everyday cooking.
SHRIMP
When it comes to shrimp, there’s nothing worse than having to cut down the back of them to remove the intestinal vein. Well, maybe peeling ’em comes close.
Having the shrimp already cleaned and waiting in the freezer is a major time-saver. And having the shell already split down the back by the packer makes peeling a snap, either before or after cooking.
I don’t like pre-peeled frozen shrimp because they can lose flavor; the shell protects the shrimp’s delicate flesh during freezing.
Stir-frying shrimp exploits its fast cooking time. Here’s one example. This dish is ready in minutes; the big thing is getting the vegetables prepared.
— Bill Daley, food and wine reporter
Shrimp stir-fry
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 6-10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 piece (1-inch long) fresh ginger root, minced
1 each, halved, cut into 2-inch thin strips: red bell pepper, medium onion, carrot, small yellow squash
1 pound frozen shell-on shrimp, thawed, peeled, deveined
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
Cooked rice
1. Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. Add the garlic and ginger; stir-fry 30 seconds. Stir-fry the vegetables in batches until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes per batch. (Don’t overcrowd the pan.) Remove vegetables to a plate; set aside.
2. Add more oil, if necessary, to the wok; heat. Add shrimp; stir-fry until just pink and opaque, about 1 minute. Return the vegetables to the pan; stir in soy and hot pepper sauces, stirring to coat evenly. Reduce heat to simmer; cook about 1 minute to let flavors mingle. Serve with rice.
Nutrition information per serving:
188 calories, 38% of calories from fat, 8 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 168 mg cholesterol, 9 g carbohydrates, 20 g protein, 491 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
DEMI-GLACE
Demi-glace (DEHM-ee glahs, “half-glaze”) is broth reduced and reduced until it’s a thick paste with immense flavor. Chefs use demi-glace as a base for sauces of many types. Home cooks who want to duplicate that intensity can now buy demi-glace frozen or in jars.
I like the kind in the jar; one brand is Better than Bouillon (about $6 for an 8-ounce jar). It saves tons of valuable pantry real estate because one jar makes as much broth as two dozen 14 1/2-ounce cans. It’s easy to measure whether chilled or at room temperature, and doesn’t need the time to thaw like frozen demi-glace does. A teaspoon to a cup of water equals a cup of canned broth. I often double that–2 teaspoons to a cup–for deeper flavor.
Beef demi-glace provides a huge boost to an easy sauce for steak, and saves time because it doesn’t need to reduce to concentrate its flavor.
— Robin Mather Jenkins, staff reporter
Seared strip steaks with red wine and brandy sauce
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 11 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
2 beef strip steaks, about 16 ounces each, 1-inch thick
1 tablespoon butter
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup dry red wine, such as cabernet sauvignon or merlot
1 teaspoon dried tarragon
2 teaspoons bottled beef demi-glace
1 tablespoon brandy, Bourbon or frozen apple juice concentrate
1. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add steaks; sear the steaks 3 minutes. Turn; sear until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 140 degrees for medium-rare, about 3 minutes, or to desired doneness. Remove steaks to a cutting board; cover with foil.
2. Melt butter in same skillet over medium heat; add shallot and garlic. Cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add red wine and tarragon; increase heat to high. Heat to a boil; cook until wine reduces to about 1/2 cup, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium; stir in demi-glace and brandy. Cook 5 minutes. Slice steaks against the grain; serve with sauce.
Nutrition information per serving:
689 calories, 62% of calories from fat, 48 g fat, 19 g saturated fat, 187 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 60 g protein, 509 mg sodium, 0.1 g fiber
PIZZA CRUSTS
Pizzamaking is a real weekday possibility now that so many markets sell dough and pre-made crusts in so many permutations, from squishy soft ones you have to finger-wrestle into a baking pan to crisp shells begging to be topped with whatever ingredients are on hand.
Be imaginative.
Remember Monday’s stir-fry still sitting in the fridge? Fish out the veggies for the pizza. Got some salami left over from making sandwiches? Cut the meat into strips and arrange atop a couple of spoonfuls of tomato sauce. Finish the pizza with some winey kalamata olives and a handful of shredded cheese.
Out of tomato sauce? Don’t worry, given the popularity of “white” pies these days. One of my favorites is spreading slow-cooked onion slices (I’ll cook them up special the night before) on the crust, then topping them with anchovies and black olives. A grating of Parmesan after the pie is out of the oven is all that’s needed.
Bake your pizza according to the directions provided with your dough or pie crust, or heat at 450 degrees until, in the case of a dough, the bottom crust begins to turn gold and crisp, about 15 minutes.
— Bill Daley, food and wine reporter
THAI CURRY PASTE
I love the fresh, exotic flavors of Thai cooking, so I have been experimenting with them for quick, easy weeknight dinners. One of the most useful Thai ingredients is prepared curry paste.
Instead of mixing ginger, garlic, chilies and other seasonings using a mortar and pestle, you simply dip a teaspoon into a jar of curry paste and add it to such dishes as soups, pastas, stews and sauces. The pastes come in green, red, and roasted red versions in small jars and can be found in the Asian aisle of most supermarkets.
They’re spicy, but only a small dab will do you. I often use only 1/2 teaspoon of paste in a quick sauce for pan-fried chicken breasts, but oh, what a tantalizing Asian flavor it imparts.
— Carol Mighton Haddix, food editor
Seared chicken breasts with Thai curry sauce
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 33 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Vary the flavors of this skillet dish by switching the type of curry paste from green or red to the newer roasted red version, which has a slightly smokier flavor.
2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 shallots, minced
1 small red bell pepper, chopped
1 teaspoon Thai curry paste or to taste
1 can (14 1/2 ounces) low-sodium, low-fat chicken broth
1 1/2 cups frozen green peas, optional
2 tablespoons whipping cream
1. Heat oil in a large skillet over high heat. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper to taste. Add chicken to skillet; cook until browned on one side, 4 minutes. Turn; cook until browned, 4 minutes. Reduce heat to medium; cover pan. Cook until chicken is cooked through and an instant-read thermometer reads 160 degrees, about 8 minutes. Remove chicken to a platter; keep warm.
2. Add shallots and red pepper to the skillet; cook, stirring, over high heat until softened, 3 minutes. Stir in curry paste; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add chicken broth; cook until broth is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Stir in peas; cook 5 minutes. Stir in whipping cream; cook 5 minutes. Taste; add salt if needed. Place chicken on serving plates; top each with some of the sauce.
Nutrition information per serving:
258 calories, 47% of calories from fat, 13 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 83 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 29 g protein, 389 mg sodium, 0.4 g fiber
CANNED TOMATOES
Canned tomatoes, processed at the peak of their flavor, are the go-to choice when local tomatoes aren’t in season. Many food lovers tout the quality of imported San Marzano tomatoes from Italy; I won’t argue with that, but I like the homegrown variety just as much. Many domestic brands of canned tomatoes are grown and processed in Ohio; I like the Dei Fratelli brand that is sold in supermarkets throughout the Chicago area.
Canned tomatoes make terrific pasta sauce, of course, but I also love their presence in quick-to-make soups. Here is a hearty Tex-Mex-style soup that can be tailored to your liking. If you don’t want heat, omit the jalapeno. (And if you want more heat, use a habanero.) For a vegetarian version, use vegetable broth and substitute a soy-based “meat” for the ground beef. Another plus: This soup freezes beautifully for the next time you need dinner in a hurry.
— Renee Enna, assistant editor
Tex-Mex tomato beef soup
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 bell pepper, finely chopped
1 pound ground beef
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes
1 can (14 ounces) low-sodium beef broth
1 cup frozen corn kernels, optional
1 jalapeno chili, sliced
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
Chopped cilantro, shredded Monterey Jack or
Mexican-blend cheese, crushed tortilla chips
1. Heat the oil over high heat in a Dutch oven. Add the onion and bell pepper; cook, stirring, until the onion is golden and the pepper has softened, about 3 minutes. Add the ground beef and cumin; cook, stirring and breaking up beef, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes with their juices, broth, corn, jalapeno, salt and pepper to taste. Lower heat to a simmer; cook 20 minutes.
2. Divide soup among 6 bowls. Top with cilantro, cheese and crushed tortilla chips.
Nutrition information per serving:
201 calories, 51% of calories from fat, 11 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 44 mg cholesterol, 10 g carbohydrates, 14 g protein, 539 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
GARBANZO BEANS
I freely admit to gluttony when it comes to dishes prepared with either of my favorite beans. Right now my tiny pantry holds six cans each of garbanzos (also known as chickpeas or ceci) and black beans.
I can’t tell you how much those dozen cans comfort me. They’re my menu-insurance policy, my sound investment in the quick dinners I crave when I’m too tired to do much more than give a can opener handle a couple of twists.
Drained, canned garbanzo beans offer a chewy surprise and slightly nutty complementary flavor to the standby frittata I like to prepare. Or a big bowl of hummus surrounded with great pita bread and a Greek salad makes a fine meal. So do garbanzos generously sprinkled over a salad made with a lettuce mix, leftover chicken strips and spoonfuls of blue cheese. And have you ever warmed fresh pineapple chunks left over from breakfast in a pot of black beans and rice? I did. And I must say it was delicious.
— Donna Pierce, test kitchen director
Piquant frittata
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 each, finely chopped: red onion, green bell pepper, celery rib
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 bag (10 ounces) fresh baby spinach
1 can (15 ounces) garbanzo beans, drained
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
8 eggs
1 tablespoon milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 pound smoked chorizo sausage, andouille or kielbasa, chopped
2 large tomatoes, thinly sliced
1/2 cup shredded unaged Manchego or other semihard cheese
Avocado slices, chopped green onions, optional
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium heat; add the red onion, green pepper and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic; cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in spinach; cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Meanwhile, combine the beans, remaining 1 tablespoon of the oil and parsley in a food processor; pulse until coarsely chopped. Set aside.
2. Whisk together the eggs, milk, salt and pepper to taste in a large bowl until foamy. Fold in the sausage and the bean mixture. Pour into the hot skillet; cook, without stirring, until eggs begin to set, about 4 minutes. Top with tomato slices; sprinkle with cheese. Transfer to oven; bake until frittata is fully set and cheese melts, about 10 minutes. Garnish with avocado slices and green onions.
Nutrition information per serving:
400 calories, 55% of calories from fat, 25 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 307 mg cholesterol, 24 g carbohydrates, 21 g protein, 825 mg sodium, 5 g fiber
PRECOOKED GOURMET SAUSAGES
Precooked gourmet sausages have become a staple at our house, where dinner preparation most weeknights starts at 7 p.m. or later. With such a late start, a quick-cooking and versatile food is essential. The sausages (just heat them for about 5 minutes) come in many flavors (chicken, turkey or duck), match many cuisine styles (Italian, Southwestern, Cajun) and can be eaten as is alongside quickly steamed vegetables (fresh or frozen) or on a hot dog bun. Or add sliced sausage to pasta dishes, soups, rice dishes, etc.
One of our favorites, sun-dried tomato and basil chicken sausage from Sausages by Amy, figures in this pasta dish.
— Joe Gray, assistant editor
Gemelli with sausage and greens
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
1 pound dried spiral-shaped pasta such as gemelli, fusilli or rotini
1 bag (10 ounces) fresh baby spinach or arugula
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 package (9 ounces) precooked flavored chicken sausages, cut into 1/4 -inch slices
20 pitted kalamata olives, halved
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1. Heat a large pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat; add pasta. Cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Meanwhile, heat spinach in a dry Dutch oven over medium heat until just wilted, stirring occasionally, about 2 minutes. Drain spinach in a colander until cool. Chop coarsely; set aside.
2. Heat the oil in the Dutch oven over medium heat; add sausages. Cook, turning, until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Stir the reserved spinach back into pot; stir in olives. Drain pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Stir pasta into the vegetables; add a little pasta water if too dry. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan.
Nutrition information per serving:
639 calories, 32% of calories from fat, 22 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 71 mg cholesterol, 82 g carbohydrates, 25 g protein, 1,023 mg sodium, 5 g fiber
SALSA
A good-quality commercial salsa, one with all-natural ingredients to avoid any unpleasant chemical aftertaste, goes much further in the kitchen than just as a dip for chips. You can cook chicken in it, pour it over sauteed or steamed vegetables, stir it into cooked rice, add it to ground beef or turkey for a zesty burger or meatloaf. In cold weather, you can use it as a base for soup:
Add a 16-ounce jar of guajillo salsa (we like Frontera Foods’ version) and 2 cans (141/2 ounces each) chicken broth to a Dutch oven; heat to a simmer over medium-high heat. Throw in some sliced, pre-cooked chicken sausage and maybe 1 cup of small, soup-size pasta, such as tubetti. Cook until pasta is done.
— Joe Gray, assistant editor
DIJON MUSTARD
Dijon mustard acts as an emulsifier in the classic French vinaigrette dressing for salads, lending the body that commercial dressings mimic with guar gums and other additives. I sometimes use mustard to slightly thicken pan sauces for beef, chicken and pork; it has a great affinity for tarragon. And I mix it with a little mayonnaise to grace ham or turkey sandwiches. I couldn’t devil eggs or chicken without it.
To dress a salad for two, combine 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar and 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard in a small jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake vigorously. Vary the dressing by adding a teaspoon of chopped fresh herbs of your choice–tarragon is terrific, but basil, chives, thyme and oregano go well here too. Replace the vinegar with lemon or orange juice; choose a nut oil instead of olive.
— Robin Mather Jenkins, staff reporter
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Favorites from America’s cupboards
Pantry raids are alive and well across the country. A recent survey conducted by Impulse Research Corp. in January found that 90 percent of Americans use their pantry foods once a week or more to prepare meals. According to the survey, the favorites included oil, pasta, rice, canned tomatoes, broth, vinegar, beans and bread crumbs.
And the three dishes most often prepared by those polled? Pasta sauces, casseroles and chili.
