A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
ALINEA (star)(star)(star)(star) 1723 N. Halsted St., 312-867-0110. At Grant Achatz’ delirious laboratory of fine dining, ingredients sometimes serve as their own utensils, dishes arrive on pillows of herb-infused air and snack-food technology is applied, with neither apology nor apparent irony, to create wonders of haute cuisine. If this sort of dining makes you rethink the nature of eating itself, you’re starting to get the point, though Achatz never loses sight of the ultimate goal, which is to make food taste good. Diners sit in elegantly minimalist surroundings to contemplate the prix-fixe tasting menus of 8, 12 and 24 courses, where the question seems to be less “what would you like?” and more “how much time do you have?” An unforgettable experience. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun. Prices: Tasting menus $75, $110, $175. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking, jackets requested.
AVENUES (star)(star)(star)(star) Peninsula Chicago Hotel, 108 E. Superior St., 312-573-6754. Regarding Graham Elliot Bowles’ most playful creations–the Altoid-laced mint jus supporting an oddly carved lamb chop, or the Pop Rocks-studded lollypop of chilled foie gras–it’s easy to think of the chef as a sort of culinary Willy Wonka. But what these madcap concoctions have in common with more approachable dishes such as rabbit pot au feu or caviar-crowned scallops is flavor–the pursuit of which drives everything this remarkable kitchen produces. Choose from a modest three-course menu, one of four six-course options or the chef’s-choice 12-course extravaganza, but whatever path you choose, the gastronomic rewards will be great, ending with Wendi James’ delightful desserts. Recommended: Foie gras over “spice krispies,” truffled frog-leg risotto, buffalo short ribs with smoked peaches, “untraditional” carrot cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $75-$138. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BUTTER (star)(star) 130 S. Green St., 312-666-9813. “Ladies first,” begins the manifesto on the back page of Butter’s menu, outlining the restaurant’s less-than-revelatory philosophy that if you make a restaurant comfortable for women, the crowds will follow. There are a number of thoughtful touches, true (purse-hanging table clips, extra restroom amenities), but frankly the real story here is chef Ryan Poli’s creative American cooking, which focuses on light but flavor-filled preparations (not a lot of red meat here). Recommended: Nicoise salad, halibut with short-rib ravioli, duck duo, cheese plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
THE DINING ROOM AT KENDALL COLLEGE (star)(star) 900 N. North Branch St., 312-752-2328. Now that Kendall College has moved its acclaimed culinary program to Goose Island from Evanston, its student-run dining room is one of the city’s hidden gems. For considerably less than the cost of a “real” restaurant meal, you can dine on surprisingly sophisticated food, prepared by students who are one step away from the restaurant world (this is the final class before graduation). Waiters, by contrast, are less experienced, but you’ll have the satisfaction of giving these neophytes some valuable real-life experience. Recommended: Green curry crabcake with mango, tamarind-glazed duck, chocolate pot de creme. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $15-$22. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot, no smoking.
LA PETITE FOLIE (star)(star) 1504 E. 55th St., 773-493-1394. Close by the University of Chicago in Hyde Park, this white-tablecloth dining room is a warm and inviting oasis from the busy streets just steps away. The compact French menu is nevertheless brimming with good choices, and the budget-constrained will love the early-bird dinner and prix-fixe lunch options. Recommended: Venison pate, pan-seared scallops, pheasant breast. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $16-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot, no smoking.
LE FRANCAIS (star)(star)(star)(star) 269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, 847-541-7470. Roland Liccioni, who ruled this kitchen through most of the 1990s, is back, cooking with the same vigor that marked his glory days at this temple of fine-dining. His menu is a stunning mix of old favorites and new creations, but his style is so light that only veteran patrons will be able to tell which is which. Abetted by a veteran front-room crew that brings a relaxed, unintimidating air to the experience, Liccioni has restored the magic to Milwaukee Avenue. Recommended: Double duck consomme, raspberry souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $35; seven-course dinner $90. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
NARRA (star)(star) 1710 Orrington Ave., Evanston, 847-866-8700. A steakhouse for people who don’t care for the uber-masculine steakhouse model, this dining room in the Hotel Orrington is a soft, contemporary space enlivened with Chihuly-inspired glass chandeliers. Steaks and most meats are more moderately portioned, and come with three sauces, which you choose from about a dozen options. Along with traditional inclusions such as a first-rate steak tartare, the menu also makes room for sweetbreads and a daily risotto, along with very contemporary salads. Cigar lounge? Not at this smoke-free hotel. Recommended: Watermelon salad, skate wing, bouillabaisse. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
X/O (star)(star)(star) 3441 N. Halsted St., 773-348-9696. Inasmuch as the dining world has gone mad for small plates, restaurateurs should visit X/O to see how it should be done. Bob Zrenner’s creative plates manage to be undersized and easily shareable, vivid without being showy and are unfailingly interesting. Amy Lewis’ enticing wine list is cliche-free and fairly priced, and Jordan Rappaport’s desserts end each meal on a rousing note. Recommended: Crabcake duo, spicy rock-shrimp salad, ribeye steak, Chocolate Orgasm. Open: Dinner Wed.-Mon., brunch Sun. Prices: Small plates, $6-$13.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, late-night menu.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
