Even out of the water they have a commanding presence. Their skin is shiny silver and midnight blue, and their eyes are hard as garnets. These are wild fish fresh from the ocean, and it shows; even trapped in their plastic trays, their bodies flex as if interrupted in mid-swim.
Their flavor is equally remarkable, rich and full in a way you might have forgotten fish could be. Indeed, around the world there are cults of diners devoted to their appreciation.
Yet these are not high-priced appellation-labeled salmon. (In fact, they are quite likely to be used as salmon bait). They are mackerel, one of the unsung stars of the sea. And in many places they can be had for a pittance.
With a fish this fully flavored, there are all kinds of options. Although mackerel shares a common ancestry with tuna, it is probably closer in flavor to fresh sardines, particularly in the texture of the flesh. (Even better–there is certainly a lot more of it.)
As this should tell you, mackerel is a fish that does best in boisterous company. It is made not for nuance but for big tastes. Forget shallots and cream; mackerel is all about capers, garlic and lemon–lots of lemon.
Mackerel does well when bathed in “charmoula,” the forceful Moroccan herb paste. Made with parsley and cilantro, garlic and green onions, even paprika and cumin, this would overwhelm most fish but not our intrepid mackerel. Bake it on a bed of sliced onions, and the fish comes out aromatic and almost meaty. You could add green peppers to the onions, and maybe some chopped tomatoes, or how about green olives?
Sometimes the greatest complexity can come from the simplest of combinations. Cut a couple of slices in each side of a whole mackerel, going mostly but not completely through the flesh. Slip a sliver of fresh bay leaf in each slice. Lay the fish on a bed of thinly sliced lemons. Wrap it in aluminum foil and bake it. You won’t believe the depth of aroma and flavor from such a simple preparation.
However you prepare it, be extra picky when selecting mackerel. These are high-energy fish with oily flesh, so they spoil very quickly. This is one reason fillets are frequently sold frozen.
When buying whole mackerel, look carefully at the eyes to make sure they are bright and clear. The flesh should be firm, without any bumps or bruises. If the meat holds a dent when you give it a gentle squeeze, pass it by. The color of the skin should be bright and vivid, but don’t set too much store by the color of the meat itself. Mackerel tends toward a grayish cast to the flesh. Don’t worry, it will turn creamy tan when cooked. Similarly, the meat can seem soft and almost mealy when raw, but it firms up during cooking.
Mackerel are so plentiful in the ocean that we tend to take them for granted. In this country, they are almost non-existent in most fish markets, aside from those catering to a Japanese-American clientele.
That’s too bad, really, because mackerels deserve a place of honor in their own home.
Baked mackerel in charmoula
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Charmoula is a combination of herbs and spices common in Morocco.
3 green onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup chopped, each: fresh cilantro, fresh parsley
2/3 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3/4 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon salt
Juice of 1 large lemon
1 medium onion, sliced 1/4-inch thick
4 Atlantic mackerel fillets, side fin and bones removed
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Place the green onions, garlic, cilantro and parsley in a food processor; puree to a thick paste. Gradually add the oil through the feed tube with the machine running. Add cumin, paprika and salt; pulse to mix. Pour in the lemon juice; pulse to a coarse puree.
2. Scatter the onion slices in a single layer in a large baking dish. Coat both sides of each fillet generously with the herb paste; place on top of the onions, skin-side up. Cover with foil; bake 20 minutes. Remove the foil; continue baking until the skin begins to turn golden, about 15-20 minutes. Serve each fillet on a bed of the onions.
Nutrition information per serving:
600 calories, 79% of calories from fat, 53g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 73 mg cholesterol, 7 g carbohydrates, 24 g protein, 381 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
Mackerel baked with bay and lemon
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
4 whole mackerel, fins removed, about 1/2 pound each
4 fresh bay leaves, each cut into 4 pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 lemons, 1 sliced paper-thin, 1 cut into wedges
1. Cut two diagonal slits, angling from head to tail, on both sides of each fish, cutting almost but not entirely through the flesh. Slip a piece of bay leaf into each of the slits; season with salt and red pepper flakes on both sides. Brush lightly with olive oil.
2. Cut 4 squares of aluminum foil big enough to hold the fish. Lay 4 slices of lemon in an overlapping line down the center of each square; place the fish on top. Seal the foil by crinkling the edges over to form a package; refrigerate until ready to cook, up to 4 hours.
3. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Transfer the packages to a jellyroll pan; bake until fish flesh is firm and slightly dense, not flaky, about 20 minutes. Let diners open each package; serve with lemon wedges.
Nutrition information per serving:
545 calories, 64% of calories from fat, 38 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 146 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 47 g protein, 453 mg sodium, 0.4 g fiber
