You’ve heard of heirloom tomatoes and apples–you know, fruits and veggies that haven’t had their flavor cross-pollinated into extinction. Get ready for the next new thing: old-fashioned meat. Heritage meat–also called heirloom meat–broadly refers to poultry, pork and beef from classic genetic lines, reared as they were in the days of family farms. Why? These meats also have old-fashioned flavor; bite into the past at these spots.
Heritage turkey
What is it: Think of most supermarket turkeys–or probably any turkey you’ve eaten–as a bit like today’s Hollywood starlets: big breasts but oh-so bland. That’s why Oliver Weber, executive sous chef at The Peninsula Chicago, likes heritage turkeys. They’re smaller, but he says these juicy, tender, free-range birds offer more flavor and texture.
Where to get it: Find somebody to treat you to the Christmas Day buffet at The Lobby in the Peninsula (108 E. Superior St. 312-573-6985). They’ll be carving both regular turkey and heritage Bourbon Reds (a line that dates back to the 19th Century) from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday as part of a sumptuous, $88 spread. Can’t pony up the dough? Head to Thyme (464 N. Halsted St. 312-226-4300), where chef John Bubala’s braising Bourbon Red thighs and legs for his porcini mushroom ravioli ($12).
Heritage pork
What is it: Forget about the other white meat; when it comes to pork, chefs say black is where it’s at. Kurobuta, or black pork, comes from ebony Berkshire hogs. Their meat, however, actually is a deep pink, with more marbling and richer flavor than latter-day pork. Why the Japanese name? Chefs there are huge fans of it and import tons.
Where to get it: At Japonais (600 W. Chicago Ave. 312-822-9600), kitchen chef Glen Kato stuffs Berkshire pork into steamed buns with green onions and hot mustard ($8). At Thyme, Bubala braises Berkshire pork shank and calls it “organic pork osso buco” ($25). Spiaggia (980 N. Michigan Ave. 312-280-2750) has a real mouthful: delicatezze di maiale con mostarda di zucca, or grilled Berkshire pork loin, braised pork cheek and crispy guanciale (cured pork cheek) with butternut-squash mustard sauce ($39). Even a meat-and-potatoes joint like Carmichael’s Chicago Steakhouse (1052 W. Monroe St. 312-433-0025) has added rotisserie-roasted Berkshire pork rack with rosemary and sage potatoes, and cognac-braised fennel ($29) as a December special.
Heritage beef
What it is: Going back to the land in a big way, TV journalist and Kansas rancher Bill Kurtis’ new Tallgrass Beef Company promotes classic, grass-fed beef. They’ve traced back the genes of their cattle to animals that came over on the Mayflower, Kurtis says. He admits a lot of people may not be able to taste a difference but claims the beef’s as low in cholesterol as skinless chicken breast with the antioxidant omega-3 content of salmon.
Where to get it: At Prairie Grass Cafe (601 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook. 847-205-4433) chef Sarah Stegner says they’ve been waiting more than a year to add the grass-fed beef to the menu (Kurtis also is an investor in the restaurant). Try it in the shepherd’s pie, full of meaty chunks of Tallgrass chuck and veggies under a blanket of potato, parsnip and butternut-squash puree ($18). Other options include an 8-ounce Tallgrass tenderloin and a 12-ounce sirloin, both served with sauteed mushrooms, grilled onions and watercress salad ($34 each). Meanwhile, at Harry Caray’s (33 W. Kinzie St. 312-828-0966), managing partner Grant DePorter reports they’re regularly selling out of the three Tallgrass steaks on the menu: an 8-ounce filet mignon ($28.95), a 12-ounce New York strip ($30.95) and a boneless ribeye ($30.95).
