A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
ALINEA (star)(star)(star)(star) 1723 N. Halsted St., 312-867-0110. At Grant Achatz’s delirious laboratory of fine dining, ingredients sometimes serve as their own utensils, dishes arrive on pillows of herb-infused air and snack-food technology is applied, with neither apology nor apparent irony, to create wonders of haute cuisine. If this sort of dining makes you rethink the nature of eating itself, you’re starting to get the point, though Achatz never loses sight of the ultimate goal, which is to make food taste good. Diners sit in elegantly minimalist surroundings to contemplate the prix-fixe tasting menus of 8, 12 and 24 courses, where the question seems to be less “what would you like?” and more “how much time do you have?” An unforgettable experience. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun. Prices: Tasting menus $75, $110, $175. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking, jackets requested.
A MILANO (star) 305 S. Happ Rd., Northfield, 847-716-6500. The former MK North has changed concepts but not ownership, morphing into an urban trattoria with modest prices and lots of special deals (half-price-wine Mondays, birthday-cake Tuesdays, etc.). The hearty and unfussy food isn’t mind-blowing, but everything’s solid. Recommended: Arugula pizza, fish carpaccio, marinated skirt steak, chicken Firenze, osso buco, biscotti. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $11-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted before 6 p.m., and for parties of five or more. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
ALDENTE CAFE (star) 1615 N. Clybourn Ave., 312-587-0055. The food is unadventurous but reliable at this Italian restaurant, which pairs a warm, even homey dining room with a late-night lounge upstairs. Larry Pierce (ex-Green Room) oversees a simple, budget-conscious menu. Recommended: Scallops with pesto, fish salad, pork chop, tilapia quattro stagione. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
ARUN’S (star)(star)(star) 4156 N. Kedzie Ave., 773-539-1909. Though perhaps not as bright a jewel as it was a few years ago, Chicago’s finest Thai restaurant continues to shine. Diners put themselves in the kitchen’s hands (there’s no menu, but waiters inquire about food sensitivities and spice tolerance) and typically are rewarded with high-quality, imaginative dishes that are as artistic as the museum-quality works that adorn the dining room (including an in-progress mural by Anawat Sampanathavivat, brother of owner Arun). Service could be more communicative, but there’s no lack of warmth or attentiveness. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Prices: Dinner $85 prix-fixe. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Required, credit-card-secured. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet weekends, no smoking.
AVENUES (star)(star)(star)(star) Peninsula Chicago Hotel, 108 E. Superior St., 312-573-6754. Regarding Graham Elliot Bowles’ most playful creations–the Altoid-laced mint jus supporting an oddly carved lamb chop, or the Pop Rocks-studded lollypop of chilled foie gras–it’s easy to think of the chef as a sort of culinary Willy Wonka. But what these madcap concoctions have in common with more approachable dishes such as rabbit pot au feu or caviar-crowned scallops is flavor–the pursuit of which drives everything this remarkable kitchen produces. Choose from a modest three-course menu, one of four six-course options or the chef’s-choice 12-course extravaganza, but whatever path you choose, the gastronomic rewards will be great, ending with Wendi James’ delightful desserts. Recommended: Foie gras over “spice krispies,” truffled frog-leg risotto, “untraditional” carrot cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $75-$138. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BALLO (star) 445 N. Dearborn St., 312-832-7700. This restaurant doesn’t combine the restaurant and nightclub concepts so much as it smashes them head on. When the joint gets jumping, the music volume makes conversation all but impossible, while strobe lights and a disco ball add to the disorientation. Try this place during the early bird hours, when management has yet to pump up the volume and you can appreciate chef/partner Joe Farina’s very respectable, homestyle Italian food in portions that will have you toting home more food than you actually consume. Recommended: Sausage panadina, antipasto bar, apple cigars. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $15-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Deafening. Other: Valet parking, smoking at bar and cocktail tables.
BISTRO MAISONETTE (star)(star) 109 Franklin St., Bloomingdale, 630-924-0930. A cozy 50-seater nestled in Bloomingdale’s Old Towne section, Bistro Maisonette makes a habit of offering more than is necessary, from the very attractive table appointments to the hearty portions. The menu is classic French, though specials will include the occasional nod to owner Franco Serefini’s Italian roots. Recommended: Roquefort terrine, onion tart, osso buco, duck duo, fallen souffle cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $13.95-$25. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly.
BLACKBIRD (star)(star)(star)1/2 619 W. Randolph St., 312-715-0708. This smart, contemporary restaurant, which has garnered just about every culinary accolade worth having, is as exciting and dynamic as it was when chef/partner Paul Kahan opened it more than seven years ago. Though the menu changes with dizzying frequency, you can still count on a few constants, such as a game offering or two and some version of suckling pig. Service is friendly and assured, desserts continue to dazzle and if the place weren’t so darned noisy, it would be perfect. Recommended: Suckling pig, endive salad, stuffed quail, apricot bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
BLUE WATER GRILL (star)(star) 520 N. Dearborn St., 312-777-1400. This new NYC import has a lot going for it, including excellent raw and sushi bars, some creative cooking and wonderful desserts by Elissa Narow. The dark and sultry interior comprises three dining rooms, sushi bar and a lounge that features nightly jazz. Recommended: Tortilla oysters, halibut T-bone, berry crumble. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $19-$49. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
BRASSERIE JO (star)(star) 59 W. Hubbard St., 312-595-0800. Closing in on its 10th birthday (this fall ), this charming bistro has lost some of the wow factor that accompanied its premiere, but it remains a very solid performer. Some of the dishes that defined the restaurant in 1995 are still on the menu, and still excellent. Recommended: Onion tart Uncle Hansi, tart flambe, steak tartare, shrimp bag, profiteroles. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$26. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
BUTTER (star)(star) 130 S. Green St., 312-666-9813. “Ladies first,” begins the manifesto on the back page of Butter’s menu, outlining the restaurant’s less-than-revelatory philosophy that if you make a restaurant comfortable for women, the crowds will follow. There are a number of thoughtful touches, true (purse-hanging table clips, extra restroom amenities), but frankly the real story here is chef Ryan Poli’s creative American cooking, which focuses on light but flavor-filled preparations (not a lot of red meat here). Prices are a bit steep, though the kitchen compensates somewhat with inventive freebie munchies at the beginning of the meal. Recommended: Nicoise salad, halibut with short-rib ravioli, duck duo, cheese plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
CANOE CLUB (star) 15200 S. 94th Ave., Orland Park, 708-460-9611. This massive restaurant works hard to re-create an island atmosphere, tricking out its interiors with a 25-foot waterfall, soaring palm trees and a 3,000-gallon shark tank. The kitchen, led by chef David Kile, has plenty of island flavor of its own, importing South Pacific seafood and giving a hint of sweetness to nearly every dish. So far, it’s working in a big way: The restaurant is packed on weekends, running wait times to 90 minutes or more and making reservations an absolute necessity. Recommended: Ahi tuna nachos, Island chicken wings, macadamia-crusted mahi-mahi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $11.75-$.24.75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking.
CAPRI (star) 12307 S. Harlem Ave., Palos Heights, 708-671-1657. Big portions of well-made Italian classics are the hallmarks of this neighborhood spot, a direct descendent of the original Capri (long gone) in Berwyn. Brawny appetizers alert diners to pace themselves; entrees include soup or salad and the desserts are hefty as well. Recommended: Calamari Capri, steamed mussels, linguini carbonara, pollo Francese Kelsey’s Way (just ask), tiramisu. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot.
CARNIVALE (star)(star)(star) 702 W. Fulton Market, 312-850-5005. Jerry Kleiner’s latest concept is a multi-level pan-Latin restaurant with the look of a hot nightclub and the price tag of a neighborhood eatery. Don’t call the melange of Caribbean and Central-American cuisine “Nuevo Latino,” however; chef Mark Mendez prefers “Latin soul food,” as his cooking is simpler and more homespun than some of the fusion that nuevo embraces. Recommended: Fluke ceviche, beet salad, rum-glazed pork shoulder, Guatemalan chicken, mango upside-down cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$35. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking, smoking in bar only.
THE DINING ROOM AT KENDALL COLLEGE (star)(star) 900 N. North Branch St., 312-752-2328. Now that Kendall College has moved its acclaimed culinary program to Goose Island from Evanston, its student-run dining room is one of the city’s hidden gems. For considerably less than the cost of a “real” restaurant meal, you can dine on surprisingly sophisticated food, prepared by students who are one step away from the restaurant world (this is the final class before graduation). Waiters, by contrast, are less experienced, but you’ll have the satisfaction of giving these neophytes some valuable real-life experience. The dining room itself is pretty and spacious, offering dramatic city-skyline views. Recommended: Green curry crabcake with mango, pork tenderloin and belly, tamarind-glazed duck, chocolate pot de creme. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $15-$22. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot, no smoking.
FRANCESCA’S FORNO (star)(star)(star) 1576 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-770-0184. The former Soul Kitchen has been transformed into yet another Francesca, albeit one distinctly different from its 12-odd siblings. Here, partners Scott Harris, Terry Alexander and Michael Noone–who launched the first Mia Francesca in 1992–have given in to the small-plate bug, offering a menu rich with downsized antipasti, salumi and cheese (available individually or in discounted assortments), and smaller (that is, normal sized) entrees. Certainly the concept isn’t original, but everything tastes great. Recommended: Beets and gorgonzola antipasto, grouper puttanesca, skirt steak, “naked ravioli,” gelato sandwiches. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $8-$19. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, smoking in bar only.
THE GROTTO (star)(star) 1030 N. State St., 312-280-1005. A steakhouse in a neighborhood chock-full of them, The Grotto is nevertheless worthy of attention for its good looks, capable waitstaff and the solid cooking of chef Abraham Aguirre, who cranks the same Italian-American specialties that marked his tenure at the original Giannotti’s and Harry Caray’s. Good steaks and chops and one of the city’s best versions of Chicken Vesuvio are matched by a surprisingly deep dessert selection. Recommended: Carpaccio, grilled calamari, red snapper oreganato, lamb chops, chocolate-chip cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted parking (with validation).
LA PINTA(star)(star) 25 W. Calendar Ct., La Grange, 708-354-8100. This tapas restaurant takes its name from one of Christopher Columbus’ sailing ships–and that’s about the extent of the Spanish influence on the menu, which reflects chef/owner Tony Soto’s Mexican heritage. Which is not in itself a bad thing; Soto’s something-sweet, something-spicy cooking style adapts well to a small-plate format. The beverage program needs more wine choices, but there are several margarita and sangria options. The large, wood-trimmed dining rooms are brightened by an assortment of colorful, Mexican-inspired artworks. Recommended: Bacon-wrapped scallops, tilapia ceviche, lamb chops, stuffed peppers, walnut-crusted halibut, Mayan Tulum dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Prices: Tapas $5-$10, entrees $17-$20. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking at bar only.
LES DEUX AUTRES (star)(star)(star) 462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn, 630-469-4002. If there were a “most improved front room” award, this west-suburban restaurant would at least be a finalist. Once-sloppy service now hums with efficiency, and owner Louisa Lima (who also makes the restaurant’s irresistible desserts) now has a chef (ex-Courtright’s Greg Lutes) whose savory output keeps up with her sweets (save room for dessert anyway). And there’s a lot to be said for a dining room in which you can whisper to your companion and still be heard. Recommended: Tuna tartare, wild salmon, kobe-style shortribs, Calvados apple puff, dessert souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun, lunch Thu.-Fri. Entree prices: $25-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
MATSUMOTO (star)(star) 3800 W. Lawrence Ave., 773-267-1555. Traditional Japanese cuisine is presented brilliantly and reverently at this ambitious Northwest Sider, owned by Isao and Chiyo Tozuka (who own Chicago Kalbi across the street) and helmed by veteran chef Seijiro Matsumoto. There is no menu; for a pre-set price, chef Matsumoto will send out a progression of kaiseki (chef’s choice) dishes, from pristine sushi to broiled salmon, with some rarely seen creations in between. The food quality is beyond reproach and the presentations are artful, even beautiful at times, but the spartan surroundings (disposable chopsticks, paper napkins) are jarringly out of synch with the prices charged. Recommended: Monkfish liver, sashimi platter, oysters in miso broth. Open: Dinner Thu.-Tue. Prices: Multicourse menus $80-$110. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking, some parking available.
MIRABELL (star)(star) 3454 W. Addison St., 773-463-1962. Despite its untrendy German menu and unglamorous Northwest Side location, this restaurant has managed to survive some 28 years, still run by the Heil family and still full of German charm and hearty cuisine, including a few specialties from other European regions. Recommended: Hackepeter, sulze, wiener schnitzel, steak au poivre. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $12.95-$24.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Parking permitted in shopping center across street.
MONTARRA (star)(star)(star) 1491 Randall Rd., Algonquin, 847-458-0505. A bit of city style in the far northwestern suburbs, Montarra expands on its steak-and-seafood core with a host of creative dishes, a strong wine program led by sommelier Marcel Flori and a determination not to leave the budget-conscious diner behind. The physical space is sophisticated and arresting, most notably for its inventive water wall and a couple of Chihuly-inspired chandeliers. Recommended: Sashimi assortment, oysters Rockefeller, “Ultimate” filet, walnut-crusted walleye, chocolate trio. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
NARRA (star)(star) 1710 Orrington Ave., Evanston, 847-866-8700. A steakhouse for people who don’t care for the uber-masculine steakhouse model, this dining room in the Hotel Orrington is a soft, contemporary space enlivened with Chihuly-inspired glass chandeliers. Steaks and most meats are more moderately portioned, and come with three sauces, which you choose from about a dozen options. Along with traditional inclusions such as a first-rate steak tartare, the menu also makes room for sweetbreads and a daily risotto, along with very contemporary salads. Cigar lounge? Not at this smoke-free hotel. Recommended: Watermelon salad, skate wing, bouillabaisse. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
OPA! ESTIATORIO (star)(star) 950 Lakeview Pkwy., Vernon Hills, 847-968-4300. Everything that Chicago’s famed Greektown does, this northwest-suburban outpost does just as well. The kitchen handles traditional Greek food with flair (and flare, in the case of flaming saganaki), and the airy blue-and-white interiors are inviting. What Opa offers in addition is a gorgeous lake view, courtesy of its shoreline location on manmade Bear Lake. Recommended: Lagana gyros, crabcakes, bakaliaros skordalia (salt cod), stuffed salmon. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $9.95-$28.95. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
RIOJA (star)(star) 5101 N. Clark St., 773-275-9191. What was once the seafood restaurant Atlantique has been re-concepted into a tapas bar by chef/owner Jack Jones (Jack’s on Halsted, Bistro Marbuzet), who proves surprisingly deft cooking in the Spanish idiom. Paellas are wonderful for their assertive flavors and excellent balance, and a wide array of smaller plates keeps this place versatile and very affordable. Recommended: Grilled salmon with yellow-pepper coulis, almond-stuffed dates wrapped in bacon, calamari and merguez paella. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Tapas prices: $2.95-$8.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
SCYLLA (star)(star)(star) 1952 N. Damen Ave., 773-227-2995. Stephanie Izard is one sweet chef, which she demonstrates daily at her charming, 50-seat Bucktown restaurant. Izard works a little hint of sweetness into just about everything she cooks, but balances flavors so precisely that it never seems like overkill. Scylla takes its name from a mythological nymph-turned-sea-monster (which explains the seafood-focused menu), but there’s nothing inhospitable about the charming and knowledgeable service or the intimate atmosphere. And Scylla caters to just-stopping-by locals with an appealing bar menu of $5 nibbles. Recommended: Lobster profiteroles, escargot-stuffed figs, grouper with sweetbreads, beignets. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$25. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
SERENATA (star) 6007 W. Cermak Rd., Cicero, 708-656-1789. Though it isn’t billed as a Mexican restaurant, that really is the cuisine that Gerry Meza’s restaurant does best, despite the presence of some respectable Caribbean and Spanish dishes. But the multiple-Latin influences are what distinguish this newcomer from the glut of Mexican eateries in the Berwyn-Cicero area. That, and the live music (Serenata means “serenade”), which makes this pretty, dual-dining-room setup seem even more festive. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $10.99-$24.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot available.
TAPAS VALENCIA (star) 241 E. Lake St., Bloomingdale, 630-582-1500. A virtual twin of its parent restaurant, Meson Sabika in Naperville, this west-suburban tapas restaurant has inherited the good looks and authentic menu of the Naperville original (no surprise, as Filemon Ochoa has executive-chef responsibility over both, as well as for Tapas Gitana in Northfield). Execution is not always up to snuff, but the successes far outweigh the occasional misstep. Recommended: Tuna-stuffed canneloni, sea scallops, tenderloin brochette. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Tapas prices: $4.95-$14.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot.
X/O (star)(star)(star) 3441 N. Halsted St., 773-348-9696. Inasmuch as the dining world has gone mad for small plates, restaurateurs should visit X/O to see how it should be done. Bob Zrenner’s creative plates manage to be undersized and easily shareable, vivid without being showy and are unfailingly interesting. Amy Lewis’ enticing wine list is cliche-free and fairly priced, and Jordan Rappaport’s desserts end each meal on a rousing note. Recommended: Crabcake duo, spicy rock-shrimp salad, ribeye steak, Chocolate Orgasm. Open: Dinner Wed.-Mon., brunch Sun. Prices: Small plates, $6-$13.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, late-night menu.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
