A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
ALINEA (star)(star)(star)(star) 1723 N. Halsted St., 312-867-0110. At Grant Achatz’ delirious laboratory of fine dining, ingredients sometimes serve as their own utensils, dishes arrive on pillows of herb-infused air and snack-food technology is applied, with neither apology nor apparent irony, to create wonders of haute cuisine. If this sort of dining makes you rethink the nature of eating itself, you’re starting to get the point, though Achatz never loses sight of the ultimate goal, which is to make food taste good. Diners sit in elegantly minimalist surroundings to contemplate the prix-fixe tasting menus of 8, 12 and 24 courses, where the question seems to be less “what would you like?” and more “how much time do you have?” An unforgettable experience. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun. Prices: Tasting menus $75, $110, $175. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking, jackets requested.
ARUN’S (star)(star)(star) 4156 N. Kedzie Ave., 773-539-1909. Though perhaps not as bright a jewel as it was a few years ago, Chicago’s finest Thai restaurant continues to shine. Diners put themselves in the kitchen’s hands (there’s no menu, but waiters inquire about food sensitivities and spice tolerance) and typically are rewarded with high-quality, imaginative dishes that are as artistic as the museum-quality works that adorn the dining room. Service could be more communicative, but there’s no lack of warmth or attentiveness. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Prices: Dinner $85 prix-fixe. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Required, credit-card-secured. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet weekends, no smoking.
AVENUES (star)(star)(star)(star) Peninsula Chicago Hotel, 108 E. Superior St., 312-573-6754. Regarding Graham Elliot Bowles’ most playful creations–the Altoid-laced mint jus supporting an oddly carved lamb chop, or the Pop Rocks-studded lollypop of chilled foie gras–it’s easy to think of the chef as a sort of culinary Willy Wonka. But what these madcap concoctions have in common with more approachable dishes such as rabbit pot au feu or caviar-crowned scallops is flavor–the pursuit of which drives everything this remarkable kitchen produces. Choose from a modest three-course menu, one of four six-course options or the chef’s-choice 12-course extravaganza, but whatever path you choose, the gastronomic rewards will be great, ending with Wendi James’ delightful desserts. Recommended: Foie gras over “spice krispies,” truffled frog-leg risotto, “untraditional” carrot cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $75-$138. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
CARNIVALE (star)(star)(star) 702 W. Fulton Market, 312-850-5005. Jerry Kleiner’s latest concept is a multi-level pan-Latin restaurant with the look of a hot nightclub and the price tag of a neighborhood eatery. Don’t call the melange of Caribbean and Central-American cuisine “Nuevo Latino,” however; chef Mark Mendez prefers “Latin soul food,” as his cooking is simpler and more homespun than some of the fusion that nuevo embraces. Recommended: Fluke ceviche, beet salad, rum-glazed pork shoulder, Guatemalan chicken, mango upside-down cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$35. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking, smoking in bar only.
FRANCESCA’S FORNO (star)(star)(star) 1576 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-770-0184. The former Soul Kitchen has been transformed into yet another Francesca, albeit one distinctly different from its 12-odd siblings. Here, partners Scott Harris, Terry Alexander and Michael Noone–who launched the first Mia Francesca in 1992–have given in to the small-plate bug, offering a menu rich with downsized antipasti, salumi and cheese (available individually or in discounted assortments), and smaller (that is, normal sized) entrees. Certainly the concept isn’t original, but everything tastes great. Recommended: Beets and gorgonzola antipasto, “naked ravioli,” gelato sandwiches. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $8-$19. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, smoking in bar only.
MONTARRA (star)(star)(star) 1491 Randall Rd., Algonquin, 847-458-0505. A bit of city style in the far northwestern suburbs, Montarra expands on its steak-and-seafood core with a host of creative dishes, a strong wine program led by sommelier Marcel Flori and a determination not to leave the budget-conscious diner behind. The physical space is sophisticated and arresting, most notably for its inventive water wall and a couple of Chihuly-inspired chandeliers. Recommended: Sashimi assortment, “Ultimate” filet, walnut-crusted walleye, chocolate trio. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
SCYLLA (star)(star)(star) 1952 N. Damen Ave., 773-227-2995. Stephanie Izard is one sweet chef, which she demonstrates daily at her charming, 50-seat Bucktown restaurant. Izard works a little hint of sweetness into just about everything she cooks, but balances flavors so precisely that it never seems like overkill. Scylla takes its name from a mythological nymph-turned-sea-monster, but there’s nothing inhospitable about the charming and knowledgeable service or the intimate atmosphere. And Scylla caters to just-stopping-by locals with an appealing bar menu of $5 nibbles. Recommended: Lobster profiteroles, escargot-stuffed figs, grouper with sweetbreads, beignets. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$25. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
