There are obvious words in our basic bread vernacular–dinner roll, sandwich, toast. Maybe even pudding, if we’re getting creative. But fly across a culinary ocean to South Asia and bread becomes an entirely new game of unfamiliar flours, shapes, textures and names–naan, paratha, chapathi, dosai–as well as warm, comforting, sumptuously savory flavors.
It’s a lingo you can master with simple tips on what to–and not to–eat with various types of Indo-Pak bread. And with a few hands-on guidelines in the mix–most of these breads can be torn into bite-size scoops called nawalas–who can deny the allure of upping your foodie cred with solid cosmopolitan know-how?
We pounded pavement along Devon’s Indo-Pak corridor, sampled breads at Udupi Palace, Bhabi’s Kitchen, Khan B.B.Q. and Sabri Nehari, among others, then enlisted the culinary prowess of two local chefs with South Asian expertise–Indian-born Ambarish Lulay and Pakistani-born Behzad Khan. Lulay is a chef instructor specializing in Indian and Indian vegetarian cooking at Kendall College as well as chef of the culinary school’s Dining Room. Khan, chef-owner of Spice catering in Chicago, recently completed an externship at hip Pan-Asian eatery Moto.
So, dig into this user’s guide. And don’t be afraid to get your hands a little dirty–it’s worth it.
Bathura
Think fried dough from the county fair. Now think savory. This somewhat puffy fried bread is flaky and crispy on the outside, soft and chewy inside. Tastes decadent and buttery, almost like a flattened yeast doughnut.
Try it: Meats and vegetables are sent to tastebud heaven when paired with bathura. The bread’s richness means it’s best saved for special, indulgent occasions such as weddings or holidays.
How to: Since this bread can hold its own, tear off pieces and dip in curries, yogurt or chutney sauces. Or use to make nawalas of meat and vegetable dishes. Or just munch on it plain and enjoy.
Dosai
A unique, large, crepe-like bread. Dosai is made from a batter of three parts rice flour and one part black lentil flour then baked on a griddle until golden brown. Some dosais are served crisper than others and used for dipping.
Try it: Dosais can be served plain or filled and folded like a crepe, with potato as one of the most common fillings.
How to: Tear off a piece of dosai with the accompanying filling and dip into a chutney–fresh coconut, mint, yogurt or coriander–or a soupy vegetable sauce called sambar.
Naan
Made with basics like all-purpose flour, milk and yeast, this is a pillowy, leavened flatbread shaped in imprecise ovals or circles that’s often baked in a tandoor oven, then lightly brushed with butter. It should be fresh, warm and fluffy with slightly crisp edges. Usually served plain, it can be sprinkled with sesame, onion, caraway or poppy seeds; it can also be stuffed with vegetables such as potato or onion, or minced meat.
Try it: Versatile naan is eaten with all kinds of fare, including meats, vegetables and curry dishes. Rice dishes, however, are generally not served with bread–eating the two together would be carb overkill.
How to: Start using your newly acquired nawala skills. Nearly every Indo-Pak kitchen will have fresh naan on the menu. Many will bring cut segments to your table in a basket with–or before–your entree. Eaten alone, naan is a treat in and of itself.
Paratha
Unleavened, rich and circle-shaped, paratha consists of layers of wholemeal-flour dough and butter. A sinful, flaky treat, it should be saved for occasional consumption considering its rich nature.
Try it: Khan recommends using paratha to make nawalas of meat dishes. “When there are grilled meats or kabobs being served, paratha or pooris are a must,” says Khan. “There’s just something about a pairing of flaky paratha with succulent meat.”
How to: Besides the nawala route, a whole paratha wrapped around seasoned, tender pieces of chicken, beef or lamb (known as “kabob rolls”) are a great way to get your paratha to go. Rolls may include yogurt sauce (raitha), green or red chutney, onions, tomatoes or lettuce. Don’t miss out on the divine Behari Kabob Roll ($3.25) at Khan B.B.Q. We also tried the cauliflower-stuffed paratha (gobi paratha) at Bhabi’s Kitchen ($4 for one paratha, about the circumference of a dinner plate or personal pizza). The seasoned and cooked minced vegetable inside flaky layers of fried bread was a meal unto itself. “When eating stuffed parathas,” says Lulay, “it is best to go with plain yogurt or white butter. A little pickle will also provide the necessary zest.”
Poori
These crispy, puffed-out, hollow rounds start as super-thin, oil-brushed disks of rolled-out dough made from whole wheat or refined flour. They are deep-fried until inflated and golden brown.
Try it: “Poori goes great with grilled items and it’s also enjoyed as a breakfast flatbread,” says Khan. “Pakistani households eat pooris as a part of a special Saturday or Sunday brunch with a chickpea curry or a potato masala flavored with cumin. Lentils and vegetables are a great combination with these delectable breads.”
How to: Employing nawalas, use a segment of poori to create a thin, crispy overcoat for a mouthful of potato or chickpea curry.
Roti/Chapathi
Unleavened, rich bread, made with wholemeal flour (known as “atta”). The dough, is rolled into a tortilla-thick circle, then cooked on an ungreased, slightly curved iron griddle. This is one of the most common and basic breads, with variations including stuffed and ones made with different types of flour.
Try it: Nearly everything is well-suited for scooping up by nawalas of roti or chapathi.
How to: Use pieces of roti or chapathi to make bite-sized scoops of beef, chicken or bhaji (stir-fried veggies) and chow down. Ideal for fish curries since the thinness and mild taste won’t overpower delicate textures or flavors. At Bhabi’s Kitchen, we opted for the unusual “Bajrah Millet Flour” roti ($3 for one), a hearty, less-flexible and grainy offering. Not a traditional chapathi, the earthy flavor proved a particularly nice accent to our vegetable dish. A great traditional take can be found at Sabri Nehari.
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A hands-on guide to mastering nawala
– When dealing with most South Asian food, generally disregard silverware and start using your God-given utensils–your hands.
– Master the “nawala” (pronounced na-vah-lah). The concept of nawala, says Behzad Khan, involves “breaking off a piece of bread that would fit comfortably inside one’s mouth when folded up and bringing up two ends to make a little scoop. Then scoop up a curry with a little piece of meat and bring it to your mouth.”
– “You are allowed to use a fork to help guide the food in the right direction,” Khan adds, “but taking a bite of bread and then picking up meat with a fork and putting in your mouth separately takes away from the authenticity of the meal.”
— F.A.
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Where to practice your nawala skills
Chefs Ambarish Lulay and Behzad Khan recommend the following places to begin your trek down South Asian Bread Boulevard: Bhabi’s Kitchen, 6352 N. Oakley Ave.; 773-764-7007.
Hema’s Kitchen, 6406 N. Oakley Ave.; 773-338-1627.
Indian Garden, 247 E. Ontario St.; 312-280-4910. Also: 2546 W. Devon Ave., 773-338-2929; 855 E. Schaumburg Rd., Schaumburg; 847-524-3007, and 6020 S. Cass Ave., Westmont; 630-769-9663.
Khan B.B.Q., 2622 W. Devon Ave.; 773-274-8600.
Mysore Woodlands, 2548 W. Devon Ave.; 773-338-8160.
Ravi Kabab House, 2447 W. Devon Ave.; 773-381-2400.
Sabri Nehari, 2511 W. Devon Ave.; 773-743-6200.
Udupi Palace, 2543 W. Devon Ave.; 773-338-2152. Also: 730 Schaumburg Rd., Schaumburg; 847-884-9510.
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farain@tribune.com
