A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
CARNIVALE (star)(star)(star) 702 W. Fulton Market, 312-850-5005. Jerry Kleiner’s latest concept is a multi-level pan-Latin restaurant with the look of a hot nightclub and the price tag of a neighborhood eatery. Don’t call the melange of Caribbean and Central-American cuisine “Nuevo Latino,” however; chef Mark Mendez prefers “Latin soul food,” as his cooking is simpler and more homespun than some of the fusion that nuevo embraces. Recommended: Fluke ceviche, beet salad, rum-glazed pork shoulder, Guatemalan chicken, mango upside-down cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$35. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking, smoking in bar only.
CUSTOM HOUSE (star)(star)(star) 500 S. Dearborn St., 312-523-0200. Shawn McClain, who has wowed diners with his seafood-focused Spring and veggie-centric Green Zebra, turns his skills to roasted meats in this handsome Printer’s Row spot (formerly Prairie) inside Hotel Blake. The menu and location ensure a pricier dining experience than McClain’s fans have grown accustomed to, but lovingly handled meats and an array of intriguing side dishes–as well as pastry chef Elissa Narow’s desserts–justify the expense again and again. Recommended: Beef tartare, sweetbreads, duck breast, striped bass, baked Alaska. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (through hotel entrance), valet parking, no smoking.
EXTRA VIRGIN (star)(star) 741 W. Randolph St., 312-474-0700. Between the eyebrow-arching name and the coy nude mural on the dining-room wall, there’s plenty of opportunity for lame humor at this Market District Italian. EV is the latest in Chicago’s recent trend of restaurants with strong antipasto programs; here the small plates are highlighted by an assortment of imported meats and cheeses, but EV’s big plates are equally impressive, and quality is high throughout. Servers don’t do a great job of “selling” the concept (the chef sends out expensive olive oil for bread-dipping, but the waiters rarely mention it), but they’re on the ball for the most part. Recommended: Antipasto assortment, fig-and-gorgonzola pizza, short rib osso buco, chestnut risotto, pumpkin bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
MICHAEL (star)(star)(star) 64 Green Bay Rd., Winnetka, 847-441-3100. If you share chef/owner Michael Lachowicz’ love for classic French cuisine, chances are you’ll love his restaurant as well. Pommes puree served tableside from silver pans, an abundance of luxury ingredients–Michael knows how to coddle his guests, though he manages to do so at a rather approachable price. Recommended: Salad lyonnaise, seared foie gras, grilled-fish duo, guinea hen, fallen chocolate souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$25. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking; no smoking.
SCYLLA (star)(star)(star) 1952 N. Damen Ave., 773-227-2995. Stephanie Izard is one sweet chef, which she demonstrates daily at her charming, 50-seat Bucktown restaurant. Izard works a little hint of sweetness into just about everything she cooks, but balances flavors so precisely that it never seems like overkill. Scylla takes its name from a mythological nymph-turned-sea-monster (which explains the seafood-focused menu), but there’s nothing inhospitable about the charming and knowledgeable service or the intimate atmosphere. And Scylla caters to just-stopping-by locals with an appealing bar menu of $5 nibbles. Recommended: Lobster profiteroles, escargot-stuffed figs, grouper with sweetbreads, beignets. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$25. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
