A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
ALINEA (star)(star)(star)(star) 1723 N. Halsted St., 312-867-0110. At Grant Achatz’ delirious laboratory of fine dining, ingredients sometimes serve as their own utensils, dishes arrive on pillows of herb-infused air and snack-food technology is applied, with neither apology nor apparent irony, to create wonders of haute cuisine. If this sort of dining makes you rethink the nature of eating itself, you’re starting to get the point, though Achatz never loses sight of the ultimate goal, which is to make food taste good. Diners sit in elegantly minimalist surroundings to contemplate the prix-fixe tasting menus of 8, 12 and 24 courses, where the question seems to be less “what would you like?” and more “how much time do you have?” Friendly service demystifies the experience with unintimidating explanations of every dish and ingredient, including the not-always-apparent way in which they’re meant to be consumed. An unforgettable experience. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun. Prices: Tasting menus $75, $110, $175. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking, jackets requested.
AVENUES (star)(star)(star)(star) Peninsula Chicago Hotel, 108 E. Superior St., 312-573-6754. Regarding Graham Elliot Bowles’ most playful creations–the Altoid-laced mint jus supporting an oddly carved lamb chop, or the Pop Rocks-studded lollypop of chilled foie gras–it’s easy to think of the chef as a sort of culinary Willy Wonka. But what these madcap concoctions have in common with more approachable dishes such as rabbit pot au feu or caviar-crowned scallops is flavor–the pursuit of which drives everything this remarkable kitchen produces. Choose from a modest three-course menu, one of four six-course options or the chef’s-choice 12-course extravaganza, but whatever path you choose, the gastronomic rewards will be great, ending with Wendi James’ delightful desserts. Recommended: Foie gras over “spice krispies,” truffled frog-leg risotto, buffalo short ribs with smoked peaches, “untraditional” carrot cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $75-$138. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BEN PAO (star)(star) 52 W. Illinois St., 312-222-1888. OK, there are Thai satays on the menu, an all-Western dessert list and numerous other touches that tell you that this isn’t a “real” Chinese restaurant. But Ben Pao more than compensates with skillfully prepared food, beautiful decor and very good service. The wide-ranging menu has been expanded to include hot pot dining (a sort of Chinese fondue–24 hours’ notice required to reserve a hot pot table) and some throwback dishes such as moo goo gai pan, that are updated takes on the sort of Chinese food your grandparents might have ordered. Recommended: Garlic tofu, chicken almond ding, grouper, passionfruit creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $7.95-$19.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
BUTTER (star)(star) 130 S. Green St., 312-666-9813. “Ladies first,” begins the manifesto on the back page of Butter’s menu, outlining the restaurant’s less-than-revelatory philosophy that if you make a restaurant comfortable for women, the crowds will follow. There are a number of thoughtful touches, true (purse-hanging table clips, extra restroom amenities), but frankly the real story here is chef Ryan Poli’s creative American cooking, which focuses on light but flavor-filled preparations (not a lot of red meat here). Recommended: Nicoise salad, halibut with short-rib ravioli, duck duo, cheese plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
CARNIVALE (star)(star)(star) 702 W. Fulton Market, 312-850-5005. Jerry Kleiner’s latest concept is a multi-level pan-Latin restaurant with the look of a hot nightclub and the price tag of a neighborhood eatery. Don’t call the melange of Caribbean and Central-American cuisine “Nuevo Latino,” however; chef Mark Mendez prefers “Latin soul food,” as his cooking is simpler and more homespun than some of the fusion that nuevo embraces. Recommended: Fluke ceviche, beet salad, rum-glazed pork shoulder, Guatemalan chicken, mango upside-down cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$35. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking, smoking in bar only.
CUSTOM HOUSE (star)(star)(star) 500 S. Dearborn St., 312-523-0200. Shawn McClain, who has wowed diners with his seafood-focused Spring and veggie-centric Green Zebra, turns his skills to roasted meats in this handsome Printer’s Row spot (formerly Prairie) inside Hotel Blake. The menu and location ensure a pricier dining experience than McClain’s fans have grown accustomed to, but lovingly handled meats and an array of intriguing side dishes–as well as pastry chef Elissa Narow’s desserts–justify the expense again and again. Recommended: Beef tartare, sweetbreads, duck breast, striped bass, baked Alaska. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
THE DINING ROOM AT KENDALL COLLEGE (star)(star) 900 N. North Branch St., 312-752-2328. Now that Kendall College has moved its acclaimed culinary program to Goose Island from Evanston, its student-run dining room is one of the city’s hidden gems. For considerably less than the cost of a “real” restaurant meal, you can dine on surprisingly sophisticated food, prepared by students who are one step away from the restaurant world (this is the final class before graduation). Waiters, by contrast, are less experienced, but you’ll have the satisfaction of giving these neophytes some valuable real-life experience. Recommended: Green curry crabcake with mango, pork tenderloin and belly, tamarind-glazed duck, chocolate pot de creme. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $15-$22. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot, no smoking.
EXTRA VIRGIN (star)(star) 741 W. Randolph St., 312-474-0700. Between the eyebrow-arching name and the coy nude mural on the dining-room wall, there’s plenty of opportunity for lame humor at this Market District Italian. EV is the latest in Chicago’s recent trend of restaurants with strong antipasto programs; here the small plates are highlighted by an assortment of imported meats and cheeses, but EV’s big plates are equally impressive, and quality is high throughout. Servers don’t do a great job of “selling” the concept (the chef sends out expensive olive oil for bread-dipping, but the waiters rarely mention it), but they’re on the ball for the most part.
Recommended: Antipasto assortment, fig-and-gorgonzola pizza, short rib osso buco, chestnut risotto, pumpkin bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
FRANCESCA’S FORNO (star)(star)(star) 1576 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-770-0184. The former Soul Kitchen has been transformed into yet another Francesca, albeit one distinctly different from its 12-odd siblings. Here, partners Scott Harris, Terry Alexander and Michael Noone–who launched the first Mia Francesca in 1992–have given in to the small-plate bug, offering a menu rich with downsized antipasti, salumi and cheese (available individually or in discounted assortments), and smaller (that is, normal sized) entrees. Certainly the concept isn’t original, but everything tastes great. Recommended: Beets and gorgonzola antipasto, grouper puttanesca, skirt steak, “naked ravioli,” gelato sandwiches. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $8-$19. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, smoking in bar only.
FULTON’S ON THE RIVER (star)(star)(star) 315 N. LaSalle St., 312-822-0100. With its riverside location and historic-loft charm, Fulton’s looks every bit the sophisticated steak and seafooder that it sets out to be. The beef is all USDA prime; the seafood, particularly the oysters, is pristine and there’s just enough imagination in the menu to distinguish it from the rest of the pack. When summer ushers in outdoor-dining season, the dual riverside patios should contain some of the most sought-after tables in town. Recommended: Oysters, crabcake, tuna Three Ways, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
LA PINTA(star)(star) 25 W. Calendar Ct., La Grange, 708-354-8100. This tapas restaurant takes its name from one of Christopher Columbus’ sailing ships–and that’s about the extent of the Spanish influence on the menu, which reflects chef/owner Tony Soto’s Mexican heritage. Which is not in itself a bad thing; Soto’s something-sweet, something-spicy cooking style adapts well to a small-plate format. The beverage program needs more wine choices, but there are several margarita and sangria options. Recommended: Bacon-wrapped scallops, tilapia ceviche, lamb chops, stuffed peppers, walnut-crusted halibut, Mayan Tulum dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Prices: Tapas $5-$10, entrees $17-$20. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking at bar only.
LES DEUX AUTRES (star)(star)(star) 462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn, 630-469-4002. If there were a “most improved front room” award, this west-suburban restaurant would at least be a finalist. Once-sloppy service now hums with efficiency, and owner Louisa Lima (who also makes the restaurant’s irresistible desserts) now has a chef (ex-Courtright’s Greg Lutes) whose savory output keeps up with her sweets (save room for dessert anyway). Recommended: Tuna tartare, wild salmon, kobe-style shortribs, Calvados apple puff, dessert souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun, lunch Thu.-Fri. Entree prices: $25-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
MICHAEL (star)(star)(star) 64 Green Bay Rd., Winnetka, 847-441-3100. If you share chef/owner Michael Lachowicz’ love for classic French cuisine, chances are you’ll love his restaurant as well. Pommes puree served tableside from silver pans, an abundance of luxury ingredients–Michael knows how to coddle his guests, though he manages to do so at a rather approachable price. Recommended: Salad lyonnaise, grilled-fish duo, guinea hen, fallen chocolate souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$25. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking; no smoking.
MIRABELL (star)(star) 3454 W. Addison St., 773-463-1962. Despite its untrendy German menu and unglamorous Northwest Side location, this restaurant has managed to survive some 28 years, still run by the Heil family and still full of German charm and hearty cuisine, including a few specialties from other European regions. Recommended: Hackepeter, sulze, wiener schnitzel, steak au poivre. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $12.95-$24.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Parking permitted in shopping center across street.
MONTARRA (star)(star)(star) 1491 Randall Rd., Algonquin, 847-458-0505. A bit of city style in the far northwestern suburbs, Montarra expands on its steak-and-seafood core with a host of creative dishes, a strong wine program led by sommelier Marcel Flori and a determination not to leave the budget-conscious diner behind. The physical space is sophisticated and arresting, most notably for its inventive water wall and a couple of Chihuly-inspired chandeliers. Recommended: Sashimi assortment, oysters Rockefeller, “Ultimate” filet, walnut-crusted walleye, chocolate trio. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
QUARTINO (star)(star)(star) 626 N. State St., 312-698-5000. Perhaps the best of Chicago’s small-plate Italian concepts, Quartino abounds with $7 pastas, $5 salads and $12 entrees–more than confirming its “you can’t afford not to eat here” motto. You sacrifice white tablecloths to eat like this, and meal timing is nonexistent (dishes arrive in the order they’re ready, and just about everything comes up quickly), but the menu is ambitiously large and the food is uniformly impressive. And the atmosphere, which juxtaposes old-fashioned deli cases with plasma TVs flashing subtitled Italian cinema, is invigorating, though noisy. Recommended: Fava bean panino, grappa-cured salmon, bigoli with duck ragu, asparagus risotto, profiteroles. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $12. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking, kitchen open until 1 a.m.
RIOJA (star)(star) 5101 N. Clark St., 773-275-9191. What was once the seafood restaurant Atlantique has been re-concepted into a tapas bar by chef/owner Jack Jones (Jack’s on Halsted, Bistro Marbuzet), who proves surprisingly deft cooking in the Spanish idiom. Paellas are wonderful for their assertive flavors and excellent balance, and a wide array of smaller plates keeps this place versatile and very affordable. Recommended: Grilled salmon with yellow-pepper coulis, almond-stuffed dates wrapped in bacon, calamari and merguez paella. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Tapas prices: $2.95-$8.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
SCYLLA (star)(star)(star) 1952 N. Damen Ave., 773-227-2995. Stephanie Izard is one sweet chef, which she demonstrates daily at her charming, 50-seat Bucktown restaurant. Izard works a little hint of sweetness into just about everything she cooks, but balances flavors so precisely that it never seems like overkill. Scylla takes its name from a mythological nymph-turned-sea-monster (which explains the seafood-focused menu), but there’s nothing inhospitable about the charming and knowledgeable service or the intimate atmosphere. And Scylla caters to just-stopping-by locals with an appealing bar menu of $5 nibbles. Recommended: Lobster profiteroles, escargot-stuffed figs, grouper with sweetbreads, beignets. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$25. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
SERENATA (star) 6007 W. Cermak Rd., Cicero, 708-656-1789. Though it isn’t billed as a Mexican restaurant, that really is the cuisine that Gerry Meza’s restaurant does best, despite the presence of some respectable Caribbean and Spanish dishes. But the multiple-Latin influences are what distinguish this newcomer from the glut of Mexican eateries in the Berwyn-Cicero area. That, and the live music, which makes this pretty, dual-dining-room setup seem even more festive. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $10.99-$24.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot available.
TAPAS VALENCIA (star) 241 E. Lake St., Bloomingdale, 630-582-1500. A virtual twin of its parent restaurant, Meson Sabika in Naperville, this west-suburban tapas restaurant has inherited the good looks and authentic menu of the Naperville original (no surprise, as Filemon Ochoa has executive-chef responsibility over both, as well as for Tapas Gitana in Northfield). Execution is not always up to snuff, but the successes far outweigh the occasional misstep. Recommended: Tuna-stuffed canneloni, sea scallops, tenderloin brochette. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Tapas prices: $4.95-$14.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
