Driving around the city and suburbs, I’ll occasionally spot two side-by-side taquerias, Thai spots or tanning salons and wonder, “Which one is better?”
Cage match!
In pro wrestling a cage match pits two opponents in a locked enclosure, the idea being that only one will walk out victorious.
Our notion isn’t quite so Darwinian. But it combines the important elements of competition and proximity.
To us a Chicago-style cage match arises when two businesses, offering comparable products or services, are so close to each other that they beg for comparison. It might be two across-the-street ice-cream parlors, a pair of miniature golf courses sharing the same block or adjacent cafes featuring the same chocolate dessert.
So, to launch what we hope becomes a semi-regular feature, we present our first two cage matches: two steak houses that share a River North intersection; and two 24-hour diners across the street from each other in Bridgeport.
And in keeping with the wrestling mentality, there must be a winner. No ties allowed.
See what you think.
Steak vs. Steak
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
431 N. Dearborn St., 312-321-2725
vs.
Sullivan’s Steakhouse
415 N. Dearborn St.; 312-527-3510
Proximity: Across the street
The comparison: Both feature big, meaty steaks in an appealing clubby atmosphere. We tried the crabcake appetizer, cowboy ribeye and lyonnaise potatoes side dish at both.
The battle: Ruth’s Chris’ sizzling hot, butter-topped ribeye was delicious, end to end. The Sullivan’s steak was pretty tasty as well, but Ruth’s Chris had the better meat. But we paid $48.95 for Ruth’s 23-ounce prime steak; the Sullivan’s 24-ounce steak was just $31.99. Ruth’s Chris’ twin crabcakes ($16.95) were better than Sullivan’s’ single cake ($12.99) and worth the extra $4. Neither makes very interesting lyonnaise potatoes, but Ruth’s Chris’ potatoes tasted unpleasantly of oil.
Style points: Ruth’s Chris is dark and cool, with Sinatra and contemporaries playing softly in the background. Sullivan’s is brighter, cheerier, and noisier. We didn’t care for the aroma of cigars (from the adjacent bar) that hit us as we entered.
The decision: Ruth’s Chris gets the nod, but it was a much closer battle than anticipated. If you’re watching your pennies, Sullivan’s offers excellent value.
–Phil Vettel
Steak and eggs joint vs. steak and eggs joint
Kevin’s Hamburger Heaven (554 W. Pershing Rd.; 773-924-5771)
vs.
Dox Grill (600 W. Pershing Rd. 773-247-3882)
Proximity: Across the street.
The comparison: Both are 24-hour working-man’s joints with simple food, mostly counter seating, no-nonsense servers and multiethnic crowds.
The battle: Kevin’s $10.05 T-bone steak breakfast featured a huge (they say 1 pound), tender bone-in steak, three properly runny fried eggs, a heap of crispy hashbrowns and wheat toast. Dox’s T-bone breakfast was the same lineup but it costs $7.75 and featured a tougher, chubbier, yet ultimately more flavorful hunk o’ steak. Each had properly weak diner coffee.
Style points: Among the signs you’ll find at Kevin’s Hamburger Heaven is one touting the use of a metal detector at night for “everyone’s safety.” Another requests that customers prepay between 9 p.m. and 6 a.m. But we were impressed by its strong air conditioning, untorn stool tops and three actual tables (for two), which Dox does not have.
The decision: This was a very close call. We preferred the ambience at Kevin’s but the beefier tasting steak, cheaper price pushed the Dox T-bone breakfast slightly over the top.
–Monica Eng, meng@tribune.com
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Nominate your own cage match The businesses have to be either next to or across the street from each other. Which one do you think is best? Send to atplay@tribune.com or Cage match, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611.
