In an ideal world, houses would come with owner’s manuals. But since they don’t, Your Place has some fast fix-it advice for household tasks that every homeowner should be able to do. Last week, we tackled five do-it-yourself projects. This week, we’re taking on another five jobs, from relighting a pilot light to replacing outlets.
Relight a pilot light
Gas appliances won’t work when the pilot light is off.
WHAT YOU NEED
– Long matches
– Flashlight
– Patience
On water heaters and ovens, directions for relighting the pilot are printed near the access panel. Carefully follow these directions. In most cases, the gas-control knob on a water heater must be in the off position for several minutes before relighting. The waiting period is to clear any standing gas from the area. If you continue to smell gas, do not proceed; call the utility company. If there is no gas smell, remove the access panel. Follow the long, pilot-light tube on the inside of the panel to the burning chamber. Turn the control knob to the pilot position and continue to depress the knob. Light the match and hold it at the end of the pilot-light tube. Once the pilot relights, remove the match but continue to depress the knob. After a minute, turn the control knob to the desired temperature.
Tip: If the pilot light on a water heater continues to die out, it could be a sign of a clogged tube or a faulty thermocouple. Then it’s time to call a repair service.
Repair decks
Split, warped and loose boards can be dangerous.
WHAT YOU NEED
– New wood pieces
– Hammer
– Nails or fasteners
– Prybar
– Handsaw.
Remove old floor decking or wood fencing with claw hammer or pry bar. To get the replacement piece, take a section of the old piece to a home center or lumber yard. When the piece has been matched, cut it to size and replace. Be sure to remove old nails and keep the spacing consistent between the floor decking.
Tip: To avoid marking wood next to a damaged piece, use a wood block to create a lever with the pry bar.
Repair gutters
Faulty gutters and downspouts can be a source of leaks behind walls and in basements.
WHAT YOU NEED
– Gutter and downspout sections (common lengths are 8, 10 and 12 feet)
– Components (like elbows, diverters and end caps)
– Ladder
– Tape measure
– Aluminum sealant
– Hacksaw
– Drill
– Riveting tool
– Rivets
– Hammer
– Pry bar
Remove old section by pulling gutter spikes (large nails) with a claw hammer or pry bar. Using the old section as a guide, rebuild replacement section with new components, except the downspout. Visit a home center or building supply outlet. All kinds of gutter sections and components are available, and it’s like snapping together pieces from those old Erector sets. Cut gutters and downspouts to length with hacksaw.
Tip: A second set of hands is almost a must when rehanging the new section. Also, gutters must be installed at a slight pitch, so water will drain toward the downspout. The line of the existing pitch often is “weathered” onto the fascia board. Follow this line. If the old section was held in place by spikes, consider using newer gutter straps for securing the new section to the fascia board. Riveting tools give the new gutter section a professional look; rivets are available in matching colors. To use the tool, put the connecting pieces together and drill the required pilot hole through each section. Insert rivet. Grip stem of the rivet with the tool and squeeze handle to finish connecting the sections. The size of the pilot hole is determined by the size of the rivet; read manufacturer’s instructions.
Replace outlets
If receptacles and outlets don’t work, it’s hard to watch TV or read.
WHAT YOU NEED
– Wire stripper
– Replacement outlet or switch
– Line tester
– Screwdriver
– Needle-nose pliers
A faulty electrical device could mean the breaker switch on the service panel is in the off position. Locate the panel and turn the breaker back to the on position. If the outlet or switch works, the receptacle probably is OK. The breaker could have “tripped” because the circuit was overloaded; try removing a device (appliance, fan, radio) from the circuit. To replace an outlet or switch, first test at the source. For an outlet, put one wire tip from a line tester into one slot of the receptacle, the other tip into the other slot.
If the tester lights, the receptacle is getting electricity. If it does not light, and the breaker switch is sending current to the outlet, the receptacle needs replacing.
Turn the breaker switch at the service panel to the off position. Remove the outlet cover and then the outlet. To remove the outlet from the box, loosen screws at the top and bottom of the receptacle. Before continuing, double-check the power at the line. The receptacle will have at least one screw on each side that is attached to a wire (one black wire, one white wire). To test for current, touch one screw with one wire tip from the tester, the other screw with the other tip. If the tester lights, the circuit is still live.
Stop working. Find the right breaker switch at the service panel and flip the switch to the off position. Retest if necessary. Remove the existing outlet and replace with the new one. Be sure to attach the wires to the corresponding screws on the new outlet.
Try removing and replacing one wire at a time. Or make a sketch of the wiring for the old outlet. When finished, plug a lamp into the outlet and turn the breaker to the on position. If the lamp lights, the circuit is good. Turn off the power at the panel and carefully push the wires back into place.
Tip: Properly rated outlets and switches are a must. If the existing outlet or switch is rated at 15 amps, be sure to replace it with a 15-amp device. A needle-nose pliers helps put a small loop in the ends of wires so they are easier to screw to the outlet or switch. There are three common switches: single-pole, double-pole and three-way. Be sure to use the correct replacement switch. If in doubt, bring a photo of the switch to the hardware store.
Find septic tank cover
Concrete covers are outdoors, usually buried in the yard under a couple of feet of soil. Pumping contractors can charge extra for locating “difficult-to-find” covers.
WHAT YOU NEED
– Good eyes
– Shovel
– Tape measure
– Underground metal detection tool
The location could be printed on the property survey. Locate the cover a few weeks before your tank is to be pumped.
Find the vent pipe, usually at an exterior corner of the house, close to where the tank is buried. Use a rented metal detection device to find the cover, which has a metal handle. Tank covers often are 15 to 20 feet from the pipe.
Tip: In homes built before 1970, septic tanks likely are buried in the back yard. In homes built after 1970, tanks likely are underground in the front yard.
