Climbers will return to the crater rim of Mt. St. Helens on Friday for a front-row view of the rock falls, steam plumes and massive new lava dome.
The mountain has been off-limits to climbers since it began erupting in September 2004.
Although it still is in an eruptive phase, national forest officials have determined it now is safe to climb.
“The eruptions are depleted of gas,” said Tom Pierson of the U.S. Geological Survey. “Like soda sitting out on a hot surface, it has lost its fizz. It doesn’t have enough oomph for an explosion that would be unsafe for climbing.”
Those who climb the 8,365-foot mountain will see a much more active crater than they saw before 2004.
Iron chloride seeping from vents has painted swaths of yellow in the crater. Thunderous rock falls can be heard and often seen as the new dome expands at a rate of a cubic yard per second. The new dome is taller and closer to the rim than the old dome. At times you might even smell the sulfur from the crater.
“There is no place in the continental United States where you can see something like this,” said climbing ranger Marcus Cornwell.
That’s why National Volcanic Monument manager Tom Mulder expects to sell out the 100 climbing permits available each day. Permits are $22 and available online from the Mount St. Helens Institute. Party sizes are limited to 12 climbers.
St. Helens was one of the most popular climbs in the U.S., with 12,000 people per year attempting the summit each year from 1987 to 2004, with an estimated 80 percent success rate.
The climb up the south side of St. Helens is not especially difficult. According to monument workers, nobody has been killed on the mountain since the 1980 eruption.
The only fatality came when a dog fell into the crater in 2003. Rangers encourage climbers to stand back from the crater rim to avoid a similar fate. Entering the crater is prohibited and extremely dangerous.
Most injuries occur on the descent, when climbers glissade into rocks.
On the most popular route, Monitor Ridge, climbers start at a parking lot/campground called Climbers Bivouac at 3,700 feet and ascend more than 4,600 feet to the crater rim. The trip is about 10 miles round trip and usually takes climbers seven to 12 hours.
The last explosive event was March 8, 2005, when a steam plume reached 35,000 feet. Even that explosion likely would not have injured climbers on the crater rim, said monument scientist Peter Frenzen.
The top of the new dome is at 7,700 feet, as high as Shoestring Notch, the lowest part of the crater rim. The dome is growing 4 to 6 feet per day. At this rate, St. Helens will regain its pre-1980 form in 100 years, Pierson said.
“I think the only big difference in climbing now will be that climbers will be anticipating seeing volcanic activity,” said climbing ranger Cornwell. “And with the new dome right in their face up there, they will not be disappointed.”
Climb Mt. St. Helens
Reopens: Friday
Reservations: Can be made now.
Fee: $22 per climber
Limits: 12 climbers per party; 100 climbers allowed on mountain per day.
The mountain: St. Helens is erupting but is considered safe for climbing.
Gear: In addition to climbing gear, officials recommend a dust mask, goggles and, in the unlikely event of an explosive eruption, a climbing helmet.
Information: Call 360-449-7861 or visit mshinstitute.org or www.fs.fed.us/gpnf.
